WHY WINE
CHATEAU D'O
Among recent emails addressed to Chateau d'O by assiduous readers, an interesting message notes that while in the USA it is possible to find "eminently drinkable wines at around $10 (335 baht) per bottle, what with the high taxes on wine in Thailand, could you recommend a few drinkable wines at a range of prices."
Our reader who is American confesses that he likes, among the reds, the Almaviva, a rather expensive and very good Bordeaux-style wine made by Baron Philippe de Rothschild in cooperation with Concha y Toro in the Maipo Valley of Chile; and Le Serre Nuove, an excellent and expensive Tuscan wine from Ornellaia. They cost a few thousand baht each. Says our reader: "Surely there must be some drinkable quality reds that can be found in Thailand for around 1,000 baht." But he wonders if it is not "safer to stay above 2,000 baht."
Well the answer is: It all depends on what you consider drinkable. If you want top reds or whites, Thailand is indeed an expensive place because of its prohibitive tax system on wine. However, top quality wines are rarely cheap even in other countries. So, one of the aims of this column has always been to try to find pleasant bottles at affordable prices, and this week I'll look at some of the conformably priced French wines.
If what you want is an honest daily wine offering reliability without creating too much damage to your wallet I would suggest a look at some of the French vins de pays. There has been tremendous progress in the Languedoc-Roussillon in the past 20 years or so, and a few nice example ornate the shelves of our wine merchants. Among those I like and found to be consistent in quality and price (about 400/600 baht) are Les Jammelles, Jeanjean, les Vignerons du Val d'Orbieu and Turtle Creek. One step above, look for the Coteaux du Languedoc for chateaux and domains from Minnervois or Cotes de Gascogne.
I like the white Tariquet available here (expect to pay at least 700-800 baht). There are some fine wines from the southwest of France. These wines still suffer from a lack of recognition, although some are great and there has been a general, sometimes dramatic improvement in the region. Look for wines from Bergerac, Madiran or Cahors but there are also other interesting appellations. These are very old wines, some dating from before the arrival of the Romans, 2,000 years ago. However, one should not neglect the wines from Touraine, including the refreshing Bourgeuil and Chinon.
If you want great whites, remember Alsace. When good they are terrific, but nice, fresh great Alsace are hard to find in Thailand. Do not overlook the smaller Bordeaux. Not only the Bordeaux superieur, but AOC like the various cotes, from Cotes de Bourg, Premieres Cotes de Blaye, Cotes de Castillon (near Saint Emilion) to the Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux. Even the white Entre-Deux-Mers, often dry and thin in the past are gaining ground with fresh wines that let a bit of fruit emerge.
You can also find some excellent wines among the lesser chateaux like Canon-Fronsac, Montagne St Emilion, Lussac St Emilion, Lalande de Pomerol. This should usually cost between 1,000-1,800 baht.
If you are ready to spend more, go for the best cru bourgeois of Bordeaux. Some are as good as the most exalted wine belonging to the 1855 classification, but cheaper. More expensive? Then the sky is the limit, and you don't need me to tell you what is good.
When buying vins de pays, or in general cheaper wine, look for the name of the producer. If a man or a woman puts his/her name down, it also means these people are ready to stand by their products. They deserved to be encouraged.
Email: Chateaudo377@gmail.com
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