New breeds of naturally grown 'king of fruits' receive mixed reviews
STORY BY YANAPON MUSIKET, PHOTOS BY YINGYONG UN-ANONGRAK
Love it or hate it, there is no grey area when you're talking about durians, an exotic Southeast Asian fruit with an outstanding spiky rind and pungent fragrance.
Praised as the "king of fruits", durian lovers look forward to the months of May and June each year, as it marks the beginning of durian season. During this period, and common to Bangkokians, is the sight of a large crowd gathering around a cart full of durians stacked on a pavement, vying for the best piece, while at the same time, other pedestrians scurry past, squeezing their noses tight as if they're trying to get away from a scurrilous crime scene.
The unique obnoxious odour of the durian has led to the "No durian allowed" signs, which confront travellers in many hotels and airlines in Southeast Asia. It is indeed distinct, often compared to overripe cheese if you're being kind, or unwashed socks if you want to be more precise.
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| A gardener returns from collecting durians, riding a modified motorcycle. |
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| A basket of durians sent in from one hill to another. |
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| `Long Laplae' (above) and `Lin Laplae' durians (below). |
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| Heart-shaped durian found in Huadong market. |
Yet it is its smell that gives it its charm and attraction, and notoriety. Fans travel far and wide to seek out the best, with its thick lush yellow flesh, sweet taste and melt-in-your-mouth texture. Many Thai durian connoisseurs may think of either Nonthaburi and its renowned Kanyao durian or the Monthong variety from Chanthaburi. This city also held the World Durian Festival, recently.
According to the Department of Agriculture, Thailand is the world's largest exporter of durian. Thailand's eastern and southern provinces produce the majority of the country's durian yield.
But lately, a small town in northern Thailand is set to steal the limelight with its rare breeds of local durians. The buzz is, which is sure to surprise all durian lovers and haters, its acclaimed odourless property.
Last year, as reported in a number of domestic and international publications, the Chanthaburi 1 durian was proclaimed as the first kind of non-aroma durian created by Thai government scientist Songpol Somsri.
"How can we still call it durian if it has no fragrance?" argued Somboon Kamwang, a durian vendor. "It is the smell that attracts my clients."
Chanthaburi 1 by Songpol is, however, genetically developed, unlike Long Laplae and Lin Laplae, the local breeds from the city called Laplae in the province of Uttaradit, which are claimed as being naturally odourless.
Only seven kilometres from the city of Uttaradit, the district of Laplae, which means "hidden city", is home to Long Laplae and the Lin Laplae, and grows in relative obscurity from the masses. With the beautiful Mae Pull waterfall as the central attraction, comfortable climate and variety of local fruits, Laplae has much to offer passersby to stay and explore its little yet lovely town.
On the border of Laplae stands a large sign: "Come and taste the world's most delicious durian." Whether that is pretentious or simply a matter of pride one can argue, but the Municipality of Huadong, a sub-district of Laplae, highlights its local fruit during the annual durian festival, which took place today, in which top specimens will compete in a durian contest.
In 2006, Laplae was tragically swept by flooding and landslides. The whole town was covered with mud and timber. Almost 30 people died - while many agricultural fields, especially coffee, once a well-known product of Laplae, were washed away by the brutal currents. Stains of that tragic event are still noticeable on the walls of many houses and buildings in the area.
"Hopefully, Long Laplae and Lin Laplae will bring back the liveliness to this town again," said Songwut Chanda, Laplae District Agricultural Extension Officer.
"This morning, I received a phone call asking me where to buy Long Laplae durian in Bangkok," said Songwut with a big smile.
Its name may not be heard of outside its hometown but these two durians, however, have been satisfying durian admirers in Laplae and the bordering vicinity for a long time.
In 1977, the municipality of Uttaradit held a local breed durian contest. Gardeners within the area submitted durians from their private orchards to this competition.
Long Upppara was one of them.
With its circular shape and sumptuous taste, and after long examination from the judges, Long's durian won first prize. In the following year, her award-wining durian was named after her, Long Laplae. Likewise, the first runner-up from the same contest, Lin Laplae durian was in the same way named after Lin Panlad, the owner.
Both durians originate from the same township, but the distinctive difference between Long Laplae and Lin Laplae is shape. While Long Laplae looks evenly round, Lin Laplae is prominently cylindrical due to its compartments and long fleshy parts.
Anything unique and rare in the market comes with a price, a very high price.
According to Lek Sanpin, president of the Laplae Fruit Orchards Club, 80 baht per kilogramme is the approximate price for Long Laplae durians, while Lin Laplae have a wholesale price of 120 baht per kilogramme. For durian consumers, the expensive price can be a bit of a deterrent since they both cost more than a Monthong, one of the more popular kinds of Thai durian.
"Monthong can be found anywhere but these two are only available here in Laplae," said Lek.
"Lin Laplae costs more than Long Laplae as it can be kept longer."
Lying in the embrace of mountains are most of the fruit orchards in Laplae. As the trees grow on the hillside, the farmers have devised an intriguing way to collect durian.
The pulley system is one means used to transport durians across the valleys. With limited accessible pathways suited for vehicles, some orchards can only be reached on foot.
A basket filled with durians dangling from a cable is reminiscent of ski lifts at European resorts. Buyers will wait at the end of the pulley to pick up durians and negotiate the price with the owner before leaving with a truck filled with durians to sell in Uttaradit or nearby provinces.
Another thrilling picture is a motorcycle customised with a strong metal basket on the back used to carry durians from uphill to downtown. Each one can haul about 100kg of durians. Witnessing these motorcycles parading down the serpentine road from the top of the mountain is as much fun as watching a Formula One race.
Huadong fruit market is where gardeners put their fruit on display. Surprisingly, even with a mountain-high pile of durian in the middle of a crowded market, there is hardly any sign of the notorious smell.
"You can put them in the car and it will not stink," said one of the vendors to her client. "These durians are the best to keep at home if you don't want to disturb other family members who might dislike them."
The price is high. The scent is light. But what does it taste like?
"For me, Lin Laplae is the best durian. Nonetheless, it depends on personal preference," said Laplae local and Agricultural Extension staff Teerapol Muangmor. "When you have a bite, its meat is very soft and the sweetness stays in your mouth forever."
However, 26-year-old Saowalak Kwansomkid responded differently, "I tried both Long Laplae and Lin Laplae, but I still prefer the old school Monthong."
Delicious or not, they are now available at the Marketing Organisation for Farmers Market (as known as Talad Or Tor Kor in Chatuchak), or at Tops supermarket.
As the popularity of durian continues to spread worldwide, it is understandable that the emergence of odourless durian could attract those who once detested this fruit for its smell. But for true fans, it might not be the best of options.
"A durian with no scent, for me is cheating," said US tourist Joey Bauer, queueing to purchase his favourite fruit. "The debatable topic of its aroma is what makes the durian so special."
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