Stately Sabah

Kota Kinabalu's mix of racial diversity and ethnic cultures proved a suitable substitute after torrential rain had laid low plans to scale the majestic Mt Kinabalu

Story and photos by PATSINEE KRANLERT

The state-of-the-art KK City Mosque.

 

The fidgety flight was marred by turbulence mid-air for most of the two hours it took us to fly from Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu, so it came as a huge relief when our plane touched down in the capital of Sabah state, formerly known as Jesselton, the main gateway for tourists venturing deeper inland and to the tropical rainforests of Borneo.

Adventure seekers from all over the world flock to Kota Kinabalu in pursuit of a common purpose - to scale the majestic Mount Kinabalu and explore ecological and biological diversity of Kinabalu National Park, accorded World Heritage status by Unesco in 2000.

Which indeed was also our objective. Unfortunately, our meticulously planned trek up Mount Kinabalu turned out to be a ramble in the rain. The thunderstorm forced us to give up the hike and explore Kota Kinabalu's architectural gems and its creepy, at times notorious history instead.

Almost obliterated during the Second World War, Kota Kinabalu has risen from its ashes and prospered to become a vibrant multi-ethnic, culturally diversified city blending modern high-rise buildings of expressive beauty with ancient architecture.

The architecture, for that matter, is no less varied than its ethnic diversity. Jutting into a man-made lagoon at Likas Bay is the sprawling KK City Mosque. Its huge blue dome blends perfectly with glittering golden motif and white masonry. This Muslim landmark, the biggest in Kota Kinabalu, can accommodate over 10,000 worshippers.

Atkinson Clock Tower, inspired by Western art and culture.	Vendors plying their wares at the Filipino Market.

Another modern symbol of Kota Kinabalu is the 30-storey steel and glass building, Tun Mustapha, where sit the headquarters of Sabah Foundation and the chief minister's office.

Perhaps the most enduring historical structure is the Atkinson Clock Tower standing on the bluff facing Signal Hill. This wooden tower was named after Francis George Atkinson, the first district officer of Jesselton, who died of malaria at the young age of 28. It was built in 1902 by his mother, Mary Edith, as a memorial to her beloved son. Several repairs and renovations later, the tower has the distinction of being the oldest structure standing in the whole of Sabah today, having survived bloody wars and

bombing raids during World War II.

Sabah is home to more than 30 prominent ethnic and indigenous groups of people who speak their own dialect but are bound together by inter-racial marriages and a show of respect for other cultures, traditions and languages, all of which combine to give Sabah a distinctive hodgepodge look and feel.

We decided to take a good look at one ethnic minority group, the Kadazandusun, largest among the lot and once noted for their ferocity. A 30-minute car ride from downtown past winding streams and rice fields brought us to the outskirts of Kota Kinabalu to the Monsopiad Cultural Village on the banks of the Penampang River.

The village was founded in 1996 by seventh-generation descendants of the most renowned Kadazan warrior, Monsopiad. This rustic cultural site is the only one of its kind in Sabah and offers visitors an insight into their history and way of life.

Legend has it that Monsopiad, a man of superior strength and fighting skills, lived three hundred years ago. During his life he killed 42 people and kept their skulls as proof of his chivalry. The gruesome collection of his can be seen at the village museum, aptly named House of Skulls.

Spooky as it sounds, its eerie atmosphere sent shivers down my spine. Frighteningly vivid was the line of skulls hanging from a beam across the ceiling staring down at me. Monsopiad's trophies looked so real that I could feel his spirit in presence. Definitely it is not the best place to wander alone at night.

It is believed that each skull has its own presiding spirit still lurking around the museum. In accordance with traditional belief, dried Hisad palm leaves are strung and woven around the trophy-heads to protect the skulls from uninvited evil spirits.

Breeder Hii Chang Ling with hybrid mango.	A stall selling local herbs and medicines.	The atmosphere is spooky at the House of Skulls, a museum dedicated to a legendary warrior.

Now if you thought Monsopiad was a sabre-rattling blood thirsty warrior who hid in ambush waiting for his unfortunate victims in some corner of the jungle, then you are wrong. The truth is he was neither a cannibal, nor did he behead people to fulfil a lust for blood.

The legendary warrior only killed in defence. He beheaded raiders who came to loot and plunder his village. The skulls he kept as trophies were a signal to enemies to stay away, or else face the same fate.

Then we headed back to the city. Being Sunday, the open-air market on Gaya Street was packed with locals and tourists. Each of them bargained hard, trying to outdo the other to get the best from the vendors. Here the stalls are set up since 6am. A variety of goods are available, ranging from local delicacies, pot plants, flowers and pets to jewellery, handicrafts, souvenirs, spices and even mushrooms with medicinal properties.

A variety of colourful drinks are there to sample at Kota Kinabalu’s Sunday Market.

Before leaving the market I ran into a Chinese-Malaysian, Hii Chang Ling, a former veterinarian turned agriculturist whose specialty is cross-breeding different types of fruit. The results were there to see: distinctively looking fruit with their own unique flavour such as seedless lemon and durian, four-feet long gourd, king-size mango weighing more than three kilograms and a variety of crossbred orange that looked more like custard apple.

A small distance from Gaya Street is the Filipino Market which boasts more than a hundred stalls cramped under one colourful roof. The market is a popular place where handicraft lovers go to buy pearls, fake gemstones, beads and crystal products.

Just along the kerb outside the market there are several makeshift shacks manned by Filipinos equipped with sewing machines. They offer quick and easy tailoring service, be it patching, mending or altering at incredibly economical prices.

In the end we were pretty satisfied, if not overwhelmed, by our options for the rainy day. What amazed me most was the variety of different cultures to be found in one city. From wonderful attractions, a tale of tribal chivalry, unique customs, amusing street shopping to the relaxing sights and sounds of the seaside ambience, this charming coastal city kept me captivated from the moment I arrived there until the time I left.

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