GASTRO-TOURISM!

A culinary quest to Imperia and breaking the Italian food DNA right down to the very last drop and strand

KAMOLWAT PRAPRUTITUM

In a nation where the Last Supper assumes an immaculate art form, taste and indulgence are an open invitation to gastro-tourism. Italy's culinary majesty, the pasta, in reverse reveals the dough, the Semolina, the Durum wheat and, of course, Imperia.

A picker shows how grape harvesting is done.

The Ligurian Sea, which is a crystal blue body of water next to the Mediterranean Sea, provides a breathtaking backdrop for the region known to feed the world with some of the best spaghetti, olive oil and wine. It is here where the breezy Mediterranean weather and secluded valleys extend their arms to embrace the small seaside pocket of Imperia tucked away in the far corner of the Italian Boot.

Imperia is capital of the province of its namesake encompassing two historical districts of Porto Maurizio and Onegli east of the River Impero, from which the name of the city is derived. The history of the two districts dates back to the pre-Roman time and attempts at unification came to fruition during the Mussolini rule in 1923.

If the Linguria region were a pendant, Imperia would be the centerpiece gem that adorns it. Behind the typical architectural statement visible with the red roofs and yellow, low-rise buildings carpeting the hills is the soul of Italian meals.

The culture of eating associated with the lifestyle of carefree Imperians is gallantly defined not only by what is brought to the table, but also, in every measure, where and when to savour it.

Some of the most scenic parts of Imperia are laid out on the coast. A marina lined up with gleaming white yachts is an inspiring portrait material with the rows of colour-bursting Imperian buildings in the background. Come late afternoon, these buildings morph into favourite joints where the first installment of a marathon dining enjoyment gets off to a full swing.

Waiters roll out sunshade and spread the tables out on the marina promenade Spianata Borgo Peri around 5pm, signalling the onset of the aperitif hours or the liquid prelude to a long dinner chapter later.

A walking alley in Imperia city centre is flanked by new and older buildings.	Downtown Imperia is uncomplicated and easy to navigate.

A few Mojitos work wonder in washing down Italia's proudest refreshments, the olives; grown, harvested and pickled in the Ligurian region, and the oven-baked fingers of soft, scrumptious focaccia bread smothered with a tasteful tomato paste topping or sprinkled with sea salt or cheese.

The aperitif gathering is a social scene that helps keep the town interactive and where the people let their hair down over mood-lightened conversations.

As dusk falls, sleepy restaurants begin to stir. It did not go unnoticed that some patrons had hopped from the aperitif bars down the alley in the old quarter of the town. I settled in one of the restaurants and was presented with a menu a tad larger than my palm. Choice-wise, the offerings looked limited and manageable but there was a lot more than met the eyes.

The fare comprised of five plates of pasta and five servings of pizzas, arriving on the table in succession. By the third plate, the pace of eating dropped to a trickle although the authentic Italian taste left a lasting impression on my tongue.

Pasta has to be Imperia's best export to the world. It is the birthplace of perhaps one of the most familiar Italian labels on the supermarket shelves. Agnesi is a titan among spaghetti and pasta producers, born and bred in Imperia where its plant rolls out the fare in eye-opening varieties and volume.

A bottle of Vermentino sits proudly next to servings of pizzas as the chef portions up the spaghetti.

The hallmark ship logo has that inevitable connection to its principal ingredient, the wheat. The ship sets sail to all corners of the world in search of the best wheat to be milled into the Semolina. The wheat belongs to the hard type called Durum which is subject to the merciless process of de-husking, grinding and milling with the coarse flour filtered through from top to bottom of the factory building to produce the powdery, pure Semolina after impurities and lower grade flour compositions were removed.

The technicality and the specifics of pasta are no less fascinating. In Italy, it is decreed how much protein content there must be in the pasta because it is what lends the texture that al dente-ness. Having too little protein will make it soggy. The protein level must be at least 10.5% of the weight, otherwise it cannot legally qualify to be called pasta.

I guess the imposition of control has to do with national pride in ensuring that every pack of pasta and spaghetti leaving Italy satisfies the motherland-certified standard of authenticity and taste quality. Agnesi, which is the largest exporter of spaghetti and pasta and related products to Thailand, maintains it surpassed standard with over 13% protein in its products.

The rule of thumb is that a healthy dose of protein is demonstrable by the bright yellow colour of pasta which is dried at 70-degree Celsius, the right balance of temperature that keeps the strands thoroughly dehumidified and achieves the proper colour while also making them easy to digest.

Imperia enjoys abundant food security. The region is rich not only in pasta and spaghetti, but also in two "god-given amber liquids" - both being the perfect statement on an Italian dinner table - that have been around longer than even the oldest civilisation.

semi-grounded Durum; spaghetti strands ‘dance’ hot out of the production line and ripe wheat, where it all begins.

A drive into the city is in itself an attraction. Most streets are fringed by the "trees of life" bearing fruit that has been pressed into nutritious and medicinal oil. Synonymous with the Mediterranean culture, the olive is celebrated in poems, songs and even the Bible. Nowhere else is more testament to wonders of the olive than the Museo dell'Olivo or the Olive Tree Museum in midtown Imperia.

The scion of olive oil industry, the Fratelli Carli or Carli Brothers, has summed up the oil trade and stories behind the elixir tree in the museum. The brothers have dedicated their family history to the "noble plant" which the Mediterranean natives have been associated with for at least 5,000 years.

The museum exhibits rare letters written in cuneiform recording oil trade in ancient Babylon and olive oil jugs from the Roman Empire. Navigating through the museum one feels humbled by just how deeply in respect and veneration people hold the olive trees. The tree affords man the necessity as well as the luxury being the source of anything from heating, lighting, food seasoning, cosmetics, ointments to timber.

The floor plan of the museum is arranged in sequence beginning with the sections on olive trees from botany to cultivation, to be followed by journeys of the trees and essential trade routes through the Orient and olive oil superpowers of Greece, Italy and Spain. Space is also devoted to the history of the Ligurian olive oil export by sea to European neighbours.

An old presser at the Olive Tree Museum

Items not found in any other museum are displayed in the Carli Family Collection area adorned by priceless lamps and cruets which were once the possession of royalties such as France's House of Bourbon. Crystal cruets of impeccable cut sparkle under the spotlight as the notes attached to the exhibits explain how the olive oil has been the fluid of holiness used to anoint and consecrate kings and priests. The anointment is believed to mark the passage of birth, death and important moments of life. A flame fed by the olive oil is also the symbol of man's faith and the presence of God on the altar.

Like the other amber liquid, the wine, olive oil is defined by a set of characters; where it is produced and what olives it came from. And like wine, it must be tasted and it is precisely why the museum has set aside a boardroom-style section for such purpose. The tasting procedure is basically similar; letting the mouth and tongue do the sensory assessment of the positive qualities of the oil, which are fruitiness, bitterness and pungent. I learned from the exercise that top-class olive oil is typified by a delayed peppery taste, something regrettably, not very noticeable in the olive oil sold in Bangkok.

A consummation of Italian delectability requires a worthy compliment and the wine happens to be another of Imperia's blessed bounties.

The Azienda Agricola Maria Donata Bianchi rises prominently on the map of independent, local wine producers. A 10-minute drive and a cove away from the port of Imperia, the vineyard which also comes with its own winery occupies the most picturesque terrain of the valley. Rows and rows of grapevine border an expansive olive oil orchard separated by a narrow and winding road leading to the main reception villa in the vineyard.

The villa on the crest of the valley commands a sweeping view of the hilly environ contrasted by the deep blue sea on the distant horizon. The warm climate and soil conditions work in favour of creating the valley's own exclusivities; the Vermentino, Pigato, Antico Sfizio and la Mattana. With the exception of the la Mattana, these are the selection of full-bodied white wines which interact with total ease to the Lingurian platters.

The imposing Duomo Cathedral at the heart of Milan’s fashion district.

The grape harvest season was under way when I visited the vineyard in the middle of September. I left Imperia with a full stomach but was starved for the quintessential Italian artistic feasts. Heading further north to Milan, I craved for the Last Supper that promised a memorable finale of my journey.

Milan may be the pulse racer in the world of fashion but it is also the showcase of one of the most prolific arts legends known to history. Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece fascinated Dan Brown and his novel enticed readers around the world to decipher the Da Vinci Code long before it was made into a film.

Fiction aside, the Last Supper is painted on the wall of the Refectory, a large rectangular room where the monks ate, within the complex of Santa Maria delle Grazie roughly 15 minutes by car from the bustling fashion galleries at the Piazza del Duomo near the landmark Duomo Cathedral.

The Last Supper is a depiction of Christ and his twelve Apostles gathered in a large room for the feast of the Passover, where he uttered: "Verily I say unto you, One of you which eateth with me shall betray me."

Christ also established the sacrament of the Eucharist, the offering of his body and blood in the form of consecrated bread and wine. To the Christ announcement, his disciples react with dismay, incredulity and bewilderment.

In the 15th century painting, Jesus is placed at the centre of the scene. His left hand is open and the right outstretched toward the plate he shares with Judas, who, clasping a pouch of money in his right hand, is the traitor. Next to Jesus is the figure at Brown's controversy, John, seen composed and calmly withdrawn. He lowers his eyes and inclines his head, with his hands joined as if in prayer with an expression that reveals serenity and faith in Christ's words.

The Last Supper is technically not a fresco because it is painted on dry wall rather than wet plaster.

Crystal blue water of the Ligurian Sea provide a perfect backdrop for Imperia’s laid-back ambience.

With the Last Supper came the last lap of my gastronomic journey with the artistic twist made possible by coordinating with the Thai-Italian Chamber of Commerce.

The north of Italy can be a thoroughly fulfilling discovery and sheer heaven to everyone's taste bud.

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