Despite the state of the economy, the ubiquitous motorsai is weathering the storm quite nicely.
Maxmilian Wechsler
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| PRASERT CHALERNSISUK: Leader of 12 motorcycle taxis in front of Lumpini Park View condominium. |
SUVALA SONYEM: Member of the motorcycle taxis based on Sukhumvit Soi 11. |
ARUN TAIPATANAWAN: Working for 10 years for about 500 baht per day makes him happy. |
The ubiquitous motorcycle taxi, or "motorsai", has become a symbol of Thailand, and especially Bangkok, with colourfully dressed drivers and whining engines now fixtures of the chaotic cityscape.
But their image has not always been good. Past allegations of mafia involvement in their operations, dubious political affiliations and a not-undeserved reputation for erratic riding on the roads (and pavements) have made them among the most unpopular road users.
Despite this, business is booming.
In Bangkok, they are everywhere - on street corners, in sois, outside shopping centres and markets, and they are easily identified by their coloured vests.
With more than 100,000 motorcycle taxis operating in the Bangkok alone (according to a Bangkok Metropolitan Administration [BMA] officer), it is a huge workforce generating large revenues. No one really knows the exact amount, but some sources estimate it at tens of millions of baht a month.
An indication of how much the business is worth can be found in a September 2002 news story that estimates that in Bangkok gangs were extorting at least 100 million baht a month - or around 1.2 billion baht a year - from motorcycle taxis.
Bangkok-born Prasert Chalernsisuk, 41, who has been a motorcycle taxi driver for 10 years, says as Bangkok grew, the bikes were the logical solution to the traffic problems.
"The first motorcycle taxis appeared in mid-1981 in soi Ngam Duplee, in the Sathon district of Bangkok, followed by others in the Don Muang and Bang Kapi districts.
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| VIRAWAN SATHAPORNSATIT: Married with children, enjoys her work but has no insurance. |
"Traffic congestion at the start of the economic boom at the beginning of 1990s forced people to look for new ways to get around. The most effective solution turned out to be the motorcycle taxi. Then, as more and more people started using motorcycle taxis, the business was hijacked and controlled by different mafia gangs for many years," Mr Prasert said.
``Until 2003, before the BMA finally stepped in and ended the monopoly on this lucrative and money-making industry, every motorcycle taxi had to pay from 700 to 3,000 baht a month [depending on the area] to their group's leader, who passed it to the gang that controlled their area. Now, we don't have to pay anything at all. We are free of dark influences and we can keep what we earn.''
He also mentioned that motorcycle taxis don't have to pay any income tax at the moment, although plans are under way to levy such a tax.
Mr Prasert is in charge of 12 motorcycle taxis based in front of Lumpini Park View condominium on Rama IV road in Sathon district. He owns a 112cc Suzuki and works from 8am to 7pm, earning 400 to 500 baht a day.
``I spend about 70 baht a day on petrol and have insurance that covers my passengers as well. I've had several minor accidents, some with passengers. I always wear a helmet and make sure that my passenger wears one too,'' he said.
``To become a motorcycle taxi rider is now very easy. First, the applicant must find an area where he or she wants to work and get permission from the leader of the motorcycle taxis and the consent of the other riders. Then they have to go to the local BMA district office for registration, which is a simple affair,'' he said.
``The new motorcycle taxi rider will then receive a vest. These come in different colours, including blue, green, orange, purple and red, that identify a particular district. Each vest will have written on it the district, the rider's number and the location where they work.
``I not only carry passengers but I also Leg 1 deliver documents and parcels. But I have to be careful. I check the packages to make sure no drugs or other illegal items are inside. If the client refuses to let me see inside I refuse to make the delivery.
``I also get jobs where a woman asks me to follow her husband or boyfriend. This is, in fact, quite common now, and I can make good money doing it, but it might be dangerous if the person I'm following spots me,'' Mr Prasert said, adding that he had never been asked by a man to follow his wife or girlfriend.
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| QUEUEING UP: Motorcycle taxis wait for fares on soi Ngam Duplee off Rama IV road. |
He said that his team has a good relationship with the local police.
``Every new motorcycle taxi rider attends training sessions before gaining their `yellow plate' [for vehicles for hire, such as taxis]. Occasionally the police will ask for our help watching for suspicious people or activities during special events such as international meetings.''
Mr Prasert was reluctant to say if the local police grant them special privileges for their cooperation, but pointed out that the Traffic Police Division (who wear orange helmets) are always strict on them.
This could explain why the blatant disregard for traffic laws committed by some motorcycle taxis are overlooked by the traffic policemen in the area where they are designated to work.
``From the information written on the vest, every policeman will know where the motorcycle taxi is working,'' Mr Prasert remarked.nte
He charges the same fare for Thais and foreigners, no matter if they are regular customers or not.
He prefers to be a motorcycle taxi rider rather than a car taxi driver because he doesn't have to pay to rent the cab every day, spends less on petrol and doesn't get stuck in traffic jams.
``A motorcycle is more flexible. It can go around and between cars, but this can be dangerous because sometimes drivers won't stop or give way. Sometimes the drivers are intimidating and aggressive as well.''
Comparing prices between car and motorcycle taxis, Mr Prasert pointed out that motor Leg 2 cycles are more expensive for short trips, but much cheaper than taxis when travelling farther.
If a motorcycle taxi rider wants to change the area where they work, for a higher income or another reason, they must buy a new vest. The price may range from 20,000 to over 280,000 baht, depending on the area.
Riders don't have to pay bribes to government officials but may give presents like a bottle of whiskey to district officials on occasions like New Year.
Mr Prasert doesn't usually talk with his passengers, unless they start a conversation. Sometimes they exchange a few words while waiting at a red light.
``I like this job because it is independent and I can pick my own hours,'' he said.
The team Mr Prasert works with doesn't have any women riders, but in his experience about 10% of motorcycle taxi riders are women.
One is Suvala Sonyem, 30, from Kamphaeng Phet province. She has been a motorcycle taxi rider for three years, and is stationed at Sukhumvit road soi 11, in Wattana district. She owns a 125cc Honda Sonic.
``I work every day from 7am to 10pm, and can make 500 to 600 baht. Our team consists of 63 men and four women. I will accept any passenger _ I'm not afraid of anyone.'' So far she has had only one problem _ a foreigner who tried to grab her back.
She has had two minor accidents, neither with a fare aboard. She prefers to wear a hat instead of a helmet.
Ms Suvala charges everyone the same amount, and prefers long trips because she can make more money.
``I used to take some customers to Don Mueang or Suvarnabhumi airports, charging 400 baht for the trip,'' she said.
Leg 3 She always obeys traffic laws, riding straight, not between cars or on the pavement.
``I enjoy this job because I'm independent and I'm my own boss. I used to work in a factory and I didn't like it.
``I want to do this job forever ... well, until I'm 45 at least,'' she said laughing.
Arun Taipatanawan, 44, comes from Udon Thani province and has been a motorcycle taxi rider for 10 years assigned to soi Chan 43 in Bang Kho Laem district.
He rides a 125cc Honda Wave, works from 8am to 5pm daily and makes about 500 baht a day.
Mr Arun likes his job because he can work when he likes. He's the leader of a group of 12 motorcycle taxi riders, has insurance and has never had an accident.
``Every motorcycle taxi rider buys their own bike, whether it is brand new or second-hand, depending on how much he or she can afford,'' he said.
As for the political allegiances within the motorcycle taxi community in general, Mr Arun said:
``Before, most of us supported Thaksin [Shinawatra, the former prime minister] but now we are neutral. Sometimes we were paid to attend political gatherings, etc, but now we won't accept it. We are in the middle now.''
Mr Arun says there are some problems among different groups of motorcycle taxis, mainly disputes when someone picks up customers in other areas.
``We can't do that. We can take customers anywhere but cannot pick up anywhere. After customers get off, we have to return to our designated area. We can't do what car taxis do. They can pick up passengers wherever they like.''
Leg 4 Mr Arun also mentioned that the best and most profitable locations for motorcycle taxis in Bangkok are next to Siam Paragon, Pratunam and on Sukhumvit, Phetchaburi and Silom roads.
He said the vests must be worn all the time while on duty to identify where they are permitted to operate.
Another woman who was happy to be interviewed was 27-year-old Virawan Sathapornsatit.
Mr Virawan is based at Mooban Mankong in soi Ngam Duplee in Sathon district. Her team consists of six men and two women. She works from 5-10am, but not every day, and makes 300 to 400 baht a day.
Ms Virawan was born in Bangkok and has been working for two years. She has a 100cc Honda Wave, bought by her father. She doesn't have private insurance.
She prefers to deliver parcels or documents because she can charge a little more than for passengers. She is also very careful and will screen every item carefully.
``I will accept any customer, unless they are drunk,'' she said. ``I like long trips because I can make more money. We don't have to pay any bribes to anyone, but I've heard that this wasn't so in the past.''
Ms Virawan is very happy with her job and wouldn't change it for another.
``I really enjoy meeting people and seeing different places. It's a very interesting occupation.
``I've only had one small accident. I prefer to go slowly unless the customer asks otherwise, and I always obey the traffic laws,'' she said.
``Many people like to go by motorcycle because it's fast and they won't get stuck in traffic.''
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