THAILAND'S TOP DESTINATIONS VOTE
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During the heyday of the kingdom of Sukhothai, back in the 14th century, Si Satchanalai was a sister city to Sukhothai, second only to the capital in terms of size, political importance and the splendour of its temples.
Located on the banks of the Yom River in what is now Tambon Muang Kao, Si Satchanalai district, the remnants of this sprawling metropolis and its laterite walls are still an impressive sight. Many of the larger temples, built with brick and masonry, have been excavated and restored but of the royal palaces, made most likely of wood, no traces remain. The most significant structures are enclosed within a historical park which covers an area in excess of 2,000 rai and which was inscribed on Unesco's World Heritage List (along with the contemporaneous settlements of Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet) in late 1991.
Visitors can hire bicycles or else take a more leisurely tour by hopping on board a tram-like vehicle which winds its way through a hilly terrain dotted with the ruins of some 204 monuments and buildings. The religious sanctuaries are works of art in themselves, their architectural and sculptural styles attesting to the influence Hinduism and Mahayana Buddhism exerted here long before the advent of Theravada Buddhism.
One of the main attractions is Wat Chedi Ched Thaeo ("temple with seven rows of pagodas"). It is believed to enshrine the cremated remains of members of the Sukhothai royal family.
At Wat Nang Phaya visitors often pause for a while to admire the main, Sri Lankan-style pagoda which is supported by a high base decorated with sculptures of elephants similar to the one found at Wat Chang Lom, also a popular stopover. Another important feature of this temple is the laterite used to construct the viharn (chapel), the outer walls of which are decorated with intricate stuccowork in a style popular during the Ayutthaya era.
Also not to be missed is Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Chaliang, in the southeastern portion of the park. It's a relatively large complex but one has to go a bit out of one's way to reach it. The ornamental stuccowork around the main entrance resembles Khmer art of the Bayon period. Archaeologists suggest that this temple was constructed circa 1237 AD.
A little way beyond the northern walls of the park lie the remains of ancient kilns - some 500 have been unearthed to date - that produced the famous ceramics that the kingdom of Sukhothai exported to places in present-day Indonesia, the Philippines and (some say) China.
Only 55km from Sukhothai town, Si Satchanalai Historical Park makes for a delightful and diverting day trip.
GETTING THERE
Buses for the historical park leave from Sukhothai's main bus terminal between 6am and 5pm. The trip takes one hour. Phone 055-614-529 for timetable details.
The park is open daily from 8am to 5pm. The admission fees are 10 baht for Thais and 40 baht for foreigners. For more information, phone 055-679-211 or the local TAT office on 055-252-742/3.
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