We check out two little-advertised attractions along the coast of Krabi
YVONNE BOHWONGPRASERT
A typical house in the Muslim fishing village of Tha Lane. |
Kayaking through a lush mangrove forest is a refreshing and uplifting experience. |
A crystal-clear stream meanders through the lush mangrove forest of Tha Pom. |
Vegetation thrives along the Tha Pom Klong Song Nam Nature Trail. |
The romantic ambience of Ko Poda, a tiny island a few kilometres south of Ao Nang Beach (20 minutes by boat), makes it the perfect destination for honeymooners. |
We landed in Krabi on a sunny Saturday afternoon, looking forward to seeing another side to this popular destination best known for its romantic beaches, stunning seascapes, bizarre, jungle-clad karst formations and the many adrenaline-pumping opportunities it offers ardent rock climbers.
Having heard a whole lot about Krabi's rugged topography and rich ecosystem, we made our way first to the Tha Pom Klong Song Nam Nature Trail - quite a mouthful to say in one breath! This winds through a highly atmospheric mangrove swamp which is managed by the inhabitants of nearby Khao Khram, a sleepy little settlement in Muang district.
Tha Pom, we were informed by our local guide, is the name given to this dense forest by people living around here, while Klong Song Nam is a reference to the two waterways which run parallel to the nature trail. The crystal-clear water in these streams has sustained many generations of villagers in the area.
On a piece of waste ground, a few metres from the entrance to the nature trail, some men from a nearby hamlet were busy mending a fishing boat. To prevent tourists from destroying this fragile ecosystem a sturdy, 700m-long system of boardwalks has been constructed above the swamp, winding its way around numerous large, majestic trees. After a short stroll we came to a branch of Klong Song Nam and sat there for a while mesmerised by the beauty of the setting, the clarity of the stream and the activity of the many life forms which it supports. The water is alkaline, explained our guide, because the rock through which it runs is limestone.
"Notice how few pebbles there are," he said, pointing at the bed of the stream. "That soft sediment down there is calcium carbonate, which is partly responsible for keeping the water so clear."
A large tree on the other side of the brook caught my attention because its roots looked like huge balls of densely entangled rope. Our guide identified it as a member of the Myrtle family (Myrtaceae) - I later found out that its botanical name is Eugenia oblata. Its roots are useful in preventing coastal erosion and its rounded leaves are perfect for absorbing what little sunlight manages to filter down to this level, allowing the maximum amount of photosynthesis.
After our tour of the mangrove forest, we headed for the Muslim fishing village of Tha Lane, a 45-minute journey by car from Khao Khram, to do some kayaking. There, Lek, our instructor, told us that Tha Lane was once very isolated from the outside world but that since villagers started a sea-kayaking operation, some 10 years back, more and more visitors have been braving the rough access road to get here.
The weather conditions that afternoon weren't exactly ideal for kayaking - the sky was ominously overcast - but after a brief orientation session (how to hold and manipulate the paddle; how to row in sequence with one's partner), a group of us set off. Despite the advantage of being paired up with Lek, I got off to an awkward start and one kayak after another passed us until our bright-yellow vessel was at the very tail-end of the pack. After about 10 minutes, though, I found my rhythm and we began to make better progress.
After a good deal of exertion we managed to navigate our way past a long stretch of mangroves (by which stage I was sweating copiously) and arrive at the opening, between two large rocks, to a narrow body of water. Suddenly we were in deep shade, in a passageway at the bottom of what felt like a colossal canyon. On either side a steep cliff soared up and out of sight, its face covered with thick foliage, bushes projecting out to block our view of the sky.
It was wonderfully cool and tranquil and a great sense of peace enveloped me as we drifted along, paddling desultorily. Boats with outboard motors aren't allowed into this haven of natural beauty, Lek informed me, because loud noises would disturb the wildlife. Indeed, it was so quiet that I could hear the gentle sound made by water lapping against the hull of our kayak.
I wished it could have gone on for ever but, all too soon, Lek announced that it was time to turn back. Even now, a couple of weeks later, the memory of that pleasant afternoon is enough to bring a dreamy smile to my face.
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