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Phu Kradung was declared a national park on November 23, 1962, the second site in Thailand to be designated as such at the time. Open to the public only from October to May each year, it covers an area of almost 350 square kilometres, rising to a height of 1.288 kilometres.
The top of this sandstone mountain features over 60 square kilometres of diverse natural beauty, from flat savanah plains, to waterfalls, picturesque cliffs, and streams. However, reaching the top is an event in itself.
Almost like a rite of passage for Thais, ascending to the flat top of Phu Kradung is a gruelling endurance test. Usually taking between three to six hours, the climb to Lang Pae (the mountaintop) is 5.5 kilometres and is at times dry and dusty while lush and muddy at others, featuring various types of forests along the way.
The national park has many services to accommodate you on this otherwise taxing experience, with various rest stops along the way selling food, drinks, and most prominently, an army of 300 porters who you can hire to haul your personal effects up the mountain. So if these (superhuman) people can climb to the top, sometimes three times a day, with up to 50 kilograms on their shoulders, you really should have no excuse to complain.
After reaching the top, you can take a moment to enjoy the view, however don't be fooled into thinking you've made it just quite yet. The Wang Kwang Visitor Centre is located another 3.8 kilometres trek from this spot. At the centre you can choose to stay outdoors and sleep in one of the tents, or book one of the houses that are available. There are restaurants and shops up here as well as bicycles for rent.
At sundown, be sure to be at one of its two cliffs, Pha Lom Sak or Pha Mak Dook. Pha Lom Sak is perhaps the better known of the two as far as getting the best view of the sunset, however it is nine kilometres away so you must plan accordingly. Pha Mak Dook on the other hand is just over two kilometres out but you can only get a glimpse of the sunset during November to February. Amazingly during these months you can also watch the sunrise from this cliff, but the most popular spot is at Pha Nok Ann.
There are many waterfalls that you can visit along a looping trail that leads right back to the visitor centre. One of the highlights is Tham Yai Waterfall, which has a large cave behind it where you can stand and get a rare inside-out view of the water. It is surrounded by plenty of trees that offer a real treat during the winter months when some of them shed bright red maple leaves.
The national park also features plenty of wildlife, especially elephants and deer. Remember to clear out from the waterfall areas by 3pm however, as this is when the wild elephants usually come out for a drink, and these guys aren't as tame as the ones you see around Sukhumvit Road. A bit on the friendlier side are the sambar deer which you will most likely see roaming around the campsite from time to time.
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