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Land of midnight sun
During June and July the sun never goes below the horizon and Arctic flora are in full bloom
PEERAWAT JARIYASOMBAT

Reinoya Island |
Bright sun hanging on the northern horizon forced me to keep my sunglasses on even though it was well into the night. It was already 11pm, but the summer sun here on the northern tip of the European continent was still glowing brightly, the rays still strong. Every year for a period of two months, June and July, there is no night in this part of the northern hemisphere as the sun doesn't go down below the horizon.
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SOME VOCABULARY HELP
flora and fauna
the plants and animals, respectively, in an area
productive
growing a lot
nestle
to sit or lie down in a warm or soft place
vitality
energy and enthusiasm
fjord
a long narrow strip of sea between high cliffs
thermal
designed to keep you warm by preventing heat from escaping from the body
thaw
a period of warmer weather following one of cold weather
raw
powerful and natural; not controlled or trained
slopes
hillsides
lichen
a very small yellow or grey plant that spreads over the surface of rocks
agent
a substance that produces an effect or a change or is used for a particular purpose
sanctuary
an area where wild birds or animals are protected
penetrate
to go into or through
punctual
exactly on time
diplomatic
connected with managing relations between countries
entourage
a group of people who travel with an important person
staple
a basic type of food that is used a lot
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For the local flora and fauna, this is easily the most productive time of the year. The non-stop sun means plants and vegetables grow freely, birds nestle among the trees, reindeer emerge from their hideouts and roam the countryside. As for the local people, they forget about time and just try to enjoy the warm days and nights as best as they can.
On this day, it was clearly evident that the summer's sun had brought colour and vitality to the people of Lakselv, a tiny town on the Porsanger Fjord in the northern part of Norway. Its inhabitants had got rid of their thermal jackets and snowmobiles and taken to biking, trekking, swimming, fishing, and were even seen enjoying a drink in the sun.
“It is hot today,” my Norwegian guide, Jan Ole, said. It was 26 degrees Celsius, apparently quite uncomfortable for him and others more accustomed to living in temperatures below zero.
I thanked God for the melting of the thaw.
Lakselv's amazing landscape is a mix of miles and miles of rocky cliffs and hills stretching to the north and a nine-billion-year-old sliding glacier two kilometres thick. The best place to witness nature's raw power is Reinoya Island.
Huge slopes and strange-shaped rock cliffs make the island's landscape unique. The slopes are carpeted with vegetables and flowers, while the rocks on the field are covered with lichen. High rock cliffs dot the area. Every winter, ice floes crash against the rocks breaking them into small pieces. Then you can only travel around the countryside in a sledge pulled by reindeer.
“This is one of the two places in Europe where you can see this kind of landscape,” Helen Johnsen, the trip operator explained. Various kinds of plants and berries grow on the island, including Ainer, used as a seasoning agent when making smoked salmon. I did not see any big trees on the island.
Summer in the Arctic is also a happy time at Gjesvaerstappan, a bird sanctuary near the town of Gjesvaer on Mageroya Island, and home to countless species of birds.
From the deck of our ship we couldn't figure out what the Gjesvaerstappan, a group of three small islands, would look like because they were covered in thick fog. But after our ship penetrated the fog we suddenly found ourselves in the midst of millions of birds as they flew in wide circles above us. Every year from April to August, two million birds come to nest on its rock shelves.
“Eagle,” Iris Soderholm, my local guide shouted pointing to the sky. With a wingspan of over two metres, the mighty bird ruled the sky.
bird sanctuary |
“The birds are quite punctual. They come back at the same time on the same date every year. Around 5-6 p.m. on April 14 you can see puffins flying into the sanctuary,” Iris told us. There were 400,000 pairs of puffins in the area.
Gjesvaer is 15 kilometres from North Cape, uphill, and we saw snow banks by the roadside with reindeer lying comfortably on them.
“The sun is hot for them (reindeer) too. The snow helps keep the bugs away,” we were told. These reindeer, contrary to us visitors from the tropics, I thought, must be praying for year-round snow.
As we reached North Cape the weather changed suddenly as thick fog moved in blocking out sunlight, and the temperature dropped to a cold 5.5 degrees Celsius within minutes.
North Cape lies on a steep rock cliff at 71 degree 10' 21” latitude, 2,053 kilometres from the North Pole. It is the northernmost edge of Europe.
Tourists come here for the midnight sun. From mid-May till the end of July, the sun shines non-stop for 77 days.
King Rama V stone slab |
Thai tourists visiting here never miss a visit to a stone slab inscribed with the name of King Rama V that is on display at North Cape's City Hall.
On July 12, 1907, King Rama V made his second visit to Europe for medical treatment and to promote diplomatic relations. His entourage stopped over in Hornvika Bay, three kilometres from the cliff. Four local seamen carried His Majesty up the steep path to the cliff. That took a few hours, quite a difficult task in those days compared to the comfort of car travel that is available to us today.
If you travel around, you will see fishing villages along the coastline. Norway is famous for its salmon, which is the best in the world. Besides the rivers that are rich in salmon, there are salmon farms. Fish is the staple food in this part of the world. Well, not very different from Thailand and other countries in Southeast Asia, I thought.
“They are very fresh, probably from this morning's catch,” Ole said proudly pointing to a creel and then proceeding to tell me that Norwegians had salmon four days a week.
“What about the other days?” I asked. “Cod fish,” he replied.
The journey was truly an eye-opener and I will always have fond memories of my adventures in the land of the midnight sun.
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