Bangkok by boat
Story and pictures by PEERAWAT JARIYASOMBAT
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Which stops along the river did the writer make and talk about? |
Tempers frayed as heat from the concrete jungle and Bangkok's notorious traffic jam combined to make life miserable. Pollution created by exhaust emissions and the noise from the blaring of car horns were driving me crazy.
Humidity was high, the temperature nearly 40 degrees Celsius. Trapped in the stifling heat and sweating profusely I turned around desperately looking for a way out of my misery.
I walked up to the nearest skytrain station. It's the best way to beat the traffic and the chaos on the congested streets of Bangkok. I bought a ticket to Saphan Taksin Station from where I would take a boat ride along the majestic Chao Phraya, the River of Kings.
In no time I reached Saphan Taksin, got off the skytrain and took the flight of stairs that brings you to busy New Road or Thanon Tok, as it's called in Thai and headed for the pier a short walk from the station. |
SOME VOCABULARY HELP
notorious
well-known for being bad
miserable
very uncomfortable
humidity
the warm, wet feeling of the air
stifling
so hot it is hard to breathe
profusely
in large amounts
chaos
complete confusion and disorder
congested
crowded
frenetic
showing a lot of disorganised activity
tranquillity
peacefulness
revered
highly respected; worshipped
memorial
built to remind people of a famous person who has died
renovated
to repair; to return to a good condition
compensate
to provide something good to balance a bad thing
embedded
placed solidly in a hard surface
auspicious
showing good qualities
salvage
to save from damage
ubosoth
main building of a temple
elaborate
complicated and detailed
imposing
strong and impressive
bistro
a small informal restaurant
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The Sathorn Pier appeared busy but there was semblance of order there. The breeze coming off the Chao Phraya was cool and refreshing. It's a far cry from the chaos on the road. I went to the counter of Chao Phraya Tourist Boat Service and bought myself a ticket for a cruise on the river.
"It's warm and humid today. The temperature is 37 degrees Celsius," the boat guide greeted all the passengers in Thai and English.
The service is directed at foreign as well as Thai tourists wanting to visit the various attractions on the banks of the Chao Phraya. Boats leave Sathorn Pier at regular intervals and make a total of 12 stops at jetties along the route. The ticket I bought was a special day-long pass. I could get off the boat at Point A, visit the attractions there and use the same pass to proceed to Point B by another boat, and so forth, all in the course of the day.
The boat rolled out of Sathorn Pier exactly at the appointed time. Past high-rises, luxurious hotels, buildings new and old, temples, Chinese shrines, mosques and churches the boat sailed at a gentle speed in order to give passengers adequate time to admire the scenery.
In the past, the river was the main mode of transportation and commerce and judging from what we were witnessing, the same could be said of it today. We saw huge old barges hauling rice and other cargo and old wooden houses and noticed the slow pace of life of people who lived by the river, far removed from the frenetic pace of activity on Bangkok's congested roads.
"The next stop is Sri Phraya Pier. Here you can visit the River City, the famous arts and antiques centre of Bangkok," the voice of the guide came over the loudspeaker. "Among other things, the shopping complex features rare antiques, old maps and other interesting collector items from countries in Southeast Asia. Those interested can get off here," he added.
The second stop was Ratchawongse Pier.
"You can disembark here for a visit to Chinatown where you can buy gold. There are more than 100 gold shops in the area. Please be informed that the shops close at 6pm.," the guide said.
Apart from gold and choice ornaments for which it's famous, you can explore Chinatown for other more interesting reasons. It's one of the greatest shopping areas of the city, perhaps even the country. Eager shoppers come from all over the country to do their buying here.
On the opposite side of the river is the Princess Mother Pier. You can enjoy the tranquillity of a Chinese shrine and a public park there. To Thai visitors, the pier has great historical significance. By the river is the shrine of highly revered Chinese hero Kuan Oo. It is said that King Taksin came to pay his respects to the shrine before he went to war.
Behind the shrine is the late Princess Mother Memorial Park. In the park compound is an old building which has been renovated and turned into a museum. This is the building where HRH the Princess Mother lived during her childhood. The museum tells the story of her life and her priceless contribution to the welfare of the people.
Next stop was Memorial Bridge Pier. Flower lovers should not miss the opportunity to explore Pak Klong Talad, a market that gets busy well before the crack of dawn. The scene may be chaotic but it's compensated by the sight of an attractive array of colourful blossoms packed in bunches and elaborately piled in long rows.
From Pak Klong Talad, you can see a beautiful church on the opposite side. Santa Cruz Church was built by Portuguese who settled in the area during the reign of King Taksin.
Tha Tien Pier was the next stop. Walking distance from the pier is Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon, the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok.
Wat Pho is famous for its gold-plated Reclining Buddha which illustrates the passing of the Buddha and entering nirvana. The feet and the eyes are embedded with mother-of-pearl, and the feet show the 108 auspicious characteristics of the Buddha.
The large compound of Wat Pho contains more than 1000 Buddha images, most salvaged from the ruins of the former capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. It includes a large ubosoth housing 394 bronze Buddha images.
If you feel tired, relax with traditional Thai massage available in the temple compound. It's one of the best in the country.
If you cross the river here you get to Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn. It's built after King Taksin decided to move his capital from Ayutthaya to Thon Buri. The royal barge procession from Ayutthaya arrived at dawn.
The next stop was Tha Chang Pier. You can visit the Grand Palace and the National Museum. If you are looking for something outside the tour itinerary, get off at the next stop, Wang Lang Pier, and visit Siriraj Hospital which houses six medical museums.
If you find that a bit heavy, move on to the Royal Barge Museum for a taste of traditional Thai art and culture. The barges were meant to mirror the power of the monarch. They are decorated with elaborate figureheads.
The last stop was Banglampoo, a paradise for backpackers. The recently renovated Phra Sumane Fort looked imposing as I sat relaxing in the riverside park next to it. Some passengers strolled off to Khao Sarn Road, while others wandered down Phra Arthit Road to sample the food in the eateries and bistros frequented by foreign travellers.
Late in the afternoon, well before the evening rush hour, I was heading back to Sathorn Pier where it all had started, thoroughly enjoying the scenery from the comfort of my boat.
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maureen@bangkokpost.co.th |