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Know these words and phrases
substance
the quality of being based on something important
sensuous
giving pleasure to your senses
groom
to prepare something well
forte /for tey/
a thing that somebody does particularly well
unflagging
not becoming weak, tired or bored
fidelity
loyalty; faithfulness
prime
the best quality
unveiled
to show something new to the public for the first time
intact
complete and not damaged
vaulted
having a ceiling in the shape of an arch
cherubic
a type of angel shown as a small fat child with wings
fresco
a picture painted on a wall
seasoned
having a lot of experience
inherent
is a basic part of something
indispensable
essential; not to be left out
quibble
a small unimportant complaint
banal
very ordinary; not interesting or important
Ciao
an Italian greeting; hello; hi
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Triangular treat
New pizzeria is light on formality
yet heavy on culinary substance
Pla Muk Yak
Pizzeria Limoncello
Sukhumvit Soi 11
Tel 02-651-0707
Open for lunch 11:30am-2pm and dinner 6pm-midnight, closed on Mondays
Gianmaria Zanotti has decided to go Mediterranean. Bright colours. Cheerful decor. Lots of limoncello. Sensuous Botticelli. The man who groomed Zanotti into one of the most successful Italian high-dining venues in Bangkok shifts into light gear, light-heartedness, and light formality with his new outing Pizzeria Limoncello, a laid-back rendez-vous which has proved to be a quick hit in just less than a month.
“I want to do something nice and fun. I want a place where people can come wearing shorts,” says Gianmaria, an exuberant Italian who speaks almost always with a wink. “Pizza is perfect. And all these Mediterranean colours too!”
Five years ago Gianmaria opened Zanotti in Soi Saladaeng. Its gastronomic forte gradually built up a reputation and secured unflagging fidelity from jacket-and-tie diners. Yet when it was time to branch out, the owner wanted to go pop — to show the sunny side of his homeland's cuisine. Luckily he found that the once-famed Thai restaurant called Kannicha was closing down at its prime property in Sukhumvit Soi 11, so he slipped in, redecorated the place, and unveiled Limoncello three weeks ago.
The glass wall is intact, letting in slants of sunlight even when the sky is grey. Once inside, the distinct air of lightness is created by yellow tablecloths, wooden country chairs, lively paintings, and a section partially roofed by a small vaulted ceiling complete with cherubic fresco. At the far end is a brick igloo in whose belly fat logs are burning — it's a traditional pizza oven presided over by the beaming Sergio Forte, Gianmaria's friend and a seasoned pizza-maker imported, like his oven, from Italy.
“Even in Italy, there is good pizza and bad pizza,” says Gianmaria, with a sparkling wink. No doubt he's giving us a good one here. Pizza may now be part of pop cuisine, but with Sergio running the show — he actually slaps the dough and spreads the toppings for each order himself — Limoncello makes sure that the authentic substance of Italy's culinary art is inherent in every triangular slice.
Stars of the menu include the Napoli (180 baht a tray) with the indispensable tomato and mozzarella cheese, anchovies, oregano and olive oil; the al salame & salsiccia (250 baht) has the meaty addition of salami and Italian sausage. Meanwhile the two house specialities are certainly recommended: the Limoncello (250 baht) mixes ham and mushroom with tomato and cheese, and the Zanotti (350 baht) is a top-of-the-line creation with generous slices of parma ham and creamy mascapone cheese, on top of tomato and mozzarella.
All pizzas are in thin-and-crispy style with a slightly crusty rim, naturally scented by the wood fire. “Thin pizza is the standard Romagnola style,” explains Sergio. “In most parts of Italy they make the dough thin like this. It's only in the South that they prefer the thick dough; it's called the Napolitan style.”
Finishing his sentence, Sergio rushes back to the igloo and five minutes later brings back a sizzling tray of rich, thick Napolitan sloshed with yummy cheese and threads of red tomatoes. And this thick serving is in fact as satisfying as his thin one. “In northern Italy people wouldn't like this,” he beams, “they'd say the thing is too thick and uncooked, but certainly it's not!” Fortunately Sukhumvit is not northern Italy, and you're welcome to ask Sergio to make you a Napolitan in case you're curious.
Also worth sampling is the Calzone pizza (200 baht). Basically it's a pizza with a filling (instead of a topping), as thin dough is wrapped around a mixture of ham, spinach and cheese. What's especially palatable about it, Sergio explains, is the stuffing isn't directly cooked by the fire and thus maintains its natural freshness, especially the vegetables.
For pasta fans save some room for a plate of spaghetti with black squid ink and seafood (280 baht), which has a yummy biting tang; or the other house favourite, home-made angel hair with Italian sausage and mushroom (250 baht). I wish the salad section could be more extensive, but perhaps that's a minor quibble.
And lastly: the limoncello. “When I tried to come up with a name for this place, I didn't want anything too banal, or anything with the word `pizza' in it,” says Gianmaria. “So I thought of the lemon liquor called limoncello. The best limoncello comes from the island of Capri, and I just love Capri. So, well, Limoncello sounds like a fine name.”
A fine drink too. Cool, slightly sweet yet unmistakably alcoholic, a shot of lime-green limoncello (160 baht) after many cheesy slices is a soul-satisfying way of having a Mediterranean dream right in the heart of Bangkok. Ciao.
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How do you feel when you look at the picture with this restaurant review? Is this a place for a quiet, formal dinner or a light casual evening with friends?
maureen@bangkokpost.co.th |