Eating with the Stars | Bangkok Post: food

Bangkok's dining scene sparkles with many venues opened by Thai celebrities and big names. Take Thong Lor, for example. Doong Deng Dai boat-noodle shop from the colourful Nok Air CEO Patee Sararin is located on Soi 4. Just eight sois away lies actress Sopitnapa Chumpani's Mugendai. Walk three more sois to reach rapper Joey Boy's Tease Gallery & Bar.

Getting in the action is former teen heart-throb Krikphol "Fluke" Masayavanich with his first offering called The Bar and The Restaurant, which is a more considered effort than his nickname might suggest.

First, Fluke should know a thing or two when it comes to fine food after featuring around 227 Michelin-starred restaurants from across the world on his TV show called Fab TV Thailand, which airs on holidays, over the past eight years. And Olivier Daniel, his chef, has cooked for the likes of Pierce Brosnan and John Travolta. The combination of a restaurant by a foodie and a chef who cooks for the stars should pique anyone's curiosity.

While the name may suggest zero character, fortunately the ambience and menu are anything but dull. Situated on the first floor, The Bar looks luxurious and stylish in black and gold - the kind of place a celebrity of the hour would walk in with his posse while his limo is parked outside. On the second floor, The Restaurant is elegant and classic in light teal. A quick peek at the menu reveals that besides a full range of French and Italian selections, the place also highlights tapas-style delicacies.

Green asparagus veloute

Like a good love-making scene, Green asparagus veloute (B390; prices subject to tax and service charge) provides ample foreplay with its rich green soup as you work your way towards the climax of a tender poached Fine de Claire oyster. Adding a twist are sauteed baby Chanterelle mushrooms.

Snail "escargot" (B420) have the texture of chewy mushrooms and, luckily, don't taste like the wet soil they live on.  The bechamel sauce, on the other hand, emerges as a true star. It is velvety, creamy, delectable and every other synonym a thesaurus would offer for "damn good". A fried thin slice of pancetta adds a salty piquant touch, like a good villain who spices up a boring story.

Boiled Canadian lobster (B250/100g)  also delivers. The claw meat of the lobster is more tender than the tail, which is firm, scrumptious and comes topped with sundried tomato that complements the meat with acidity and sweetness.

If you have ever wanted to appear so rich that eating gold is a regular thing for you, order Gold leaves black ink risotto (B450). Adorned with a splash of 24K gold, the dish is a feast for both the eyes and stomach. The short-grain Italian rice is black and aromatic while the seafood variety in the dish would be perfect with the addition of fish.

Slow-cooked French duck leg confit (B890) is another highlight. Resting upon pieces of bacon, potato, edamame and mushroom is the duck leg with crusty thin skin and succulent flesh. A Porto wine reduction with fresh thyme makes the leg even more savoury without overpowering it.

While the food at The Bar & The Restaurant seems  bent on impressing diners with its looks, more importantly, it also delivers on taste. Foodies willing to splurge  should stop by to try dishes they won't find elsewhere. However, unless you're like Nadech or Mario who can make it rain with the baht they rake in, the epicurean experience at this golden restaurant may leave your wallet a little black and blue.G