Red Sun rising | Bangkok Post: food

EATINGOUT

Over the past 12 years since the Tawandang German Brewery restaurant brand was first launched, barely a single evening in each of its outlets (the original one on Rama III Road, the second branch on Pradit Manutham Road and the other in Singapore) hasn't been packed. One of the trademark sights people will always see in front of its entrance is an extra-large blackboard full with names of customers who have reserved tables for the night.

Occupying an open space in the shopping centre, Red Sun offers a different dining atmosphere that caters to a more cosmopolitan dining.

At its newest outlet, which commenced operation a few weeks ago, the circumstance is no different. Even though Red Sun by Tawandang presents a totally new concept in terms of setting, location and the presentation of food, this 120-seat dining establishment seems to enjoy the same level of popularity as its sister branches do. For those arriving at the restaurant on Friday evening without advance reservation, chances of getting a table are zero.

Located on the 7th floor of Siam Discovery Center, Red Sun by Tawandang occupies a 425m2, free-form open space enhanced by a panoramic view of the city through the sweeping, floor-to-ceiling glass windows. Set next to an expansive ice-skating ring, it's the only restaurant on the less-flocked floor with more than a dozen eateries situated in the Sky Dining zone one storey below.

The atmosphere at Red Sun is totally different from the familiar gigantic barnhouse-cum-concert hall setting of Tawandang. A small music stage is set in one corner of the all-open dining area, where tables and chairs are comfortably arranged next to a counter bar and lounging zone.

Red Sun's menu is a reduced version of that found in it's sister eateries. It features a decent selection of the brewhouse's all-time favourites with a number of new dishes being added to make the gastronomic experience more cosmopolitan.

Among the steadfast best-sellers are deep-fried pork knuckle (380 baht) and sauteed cabbage in fish sauce (160 baht). And at this downtown location, quality hasn't been compromised for the two dishes. Particularly the pork, which was served with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and spicy chilli-lime sauce. The meat was succulent and tasty while the skin nicely yielded its crispiness.

For light bites that promise to complement perfectly your preferred choice of fresh-brew beer (choose from a lager, dark beer or weizen), the restaurant recommends Thai crispy spring rolls with crab meat (160 baht), crispy skinned grilled chicken (180 baht) and a new addition to the menu, deep-fried prawn cakes served with plum sauce (180 baht), which came on bamboo sticks.

Deep-fried pork knuckle with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and spicy chilli-lime sauce.

But should you wish to experience the pungent flavour of authentic Thai treats, try the sweet, sour and spicy Thai-style lotus stems salad with salted crab (120 baht). The dish was prepared the same way as som tum, but with the green papaya substituted by the crunchy stems of the water flower.

Or order stir-fried lotus stems with dried shrimp and salted soya beans (180 baht) if pepperiness is not your type of taste.

Another highlighted dish is described on the menu as "seafood meatballs in red bean curd soup" (240 baht). This yen ta fo delicacy was served boil-it-yourself fashion _ the richly flavoured, reddish-pink soup came in a ceramic bowl over flame while all the meat (squid, jellyfish, fish balls, pork blood jelly and tofu) and vegetables arrived separately on a platter so customers can enjoy cooking it on the tabletop themselves.

However, a more delicious choice of soup for me was the Isan-style spicy clear soup with sea bass fillet (220 baht). The peppery herbal soup in which juicy fillets of sea bass came immersed together with a variety of local vegetables offered a mild taste but was well-flavoured and very soothing.

On the day that we visited the only dessert option available was gourmet stuffed ice cream (180 baht), which was presented with a neat contemporary look. We sampled the tiramisu-caramel and vanilla-hazelnut flavours and were gratified.

The seafood meatballs in red bean curd soup.

Stir-fried lotus stems with dried shrimp and salted soya beans.