Male plumage

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When it comes to the size of the wardrobe, it would seem that the obvious conclusion is that the range and variety of men's clothes cannot be bigger and wider than those of women's. However, the contents of one tome of fashion history provide ample grounds for putting up an opposing argument that menswear creations are no small fry.

Read One Hundred Years of Menswear by UK-based fashion historian Cally Blackman, who documents the evolution of men's fashion since the days of the "it's all about suits" era in the 1900s, progressing to working-class garments and denims, and terminating with today's genderless-outfit movement, and discover how menswear dominates and influences women's clothes today.

Packed with images of Hollywood-style icons, artistic personalities as well as pictures of street fashion archived in the media, this rich compilation stands out for its examination of the practical and rebellious sides of menswear. The extraordinary historical photographs and illustrations are accompanied by in-depth information and the author's enlightening comments.

On the 313 pages, Blackman explores how men in the 20th century expressed their sartorial styles, not just by wearing beautifully cut suits but also by dressing in ways that were avant-garde, daring, innovative, even subversive, for that period. And, to quote her, "they were doing this to a much larger extent than women."

'One Hundred Years of Menswear' is available at Asia Books.

During the 1980s, London’s gay scene flourished. Here, Boy George faces the press in confrontational style (1986).

Don Johnson, as Crokett, in ‘Miami Vice’. The pushedup sleeve became not only a possibility through softer fabrics and tailoring but also a sartorial emblem of 1980s fashion (1984-89).

Ralph Lauren Purple Label suit for autumn/winter 2002/2003; sharp tailoring with 1930s curves and details (2002).

Rapper LL Cool J wearing his Calvin Kleins (the name is now synonymous with the garment) as they should be worn—with the waistband showing (1999).

James Dean in jeans on the set of ‘Rebel Without a Cause’, the seminal teenage angst movie (1955).

The Prince of Wales (the future George V), a conventional dresser, offsets the informality of his checked lounge suit with a formal wing collar (1901-1905).

Jimi Hendrix epitomised the rock/hippie style with a fusion of ethnic embroidery, skintight velvet trousers, scarves and jewellery, topped with an Afro hairstyle (1967).