Food for fine beaks

EATING Out

'Becco fino" can be translated as "fine beak", and I'd guess that if you had a fine beak it would mean that you possessed a palate that appreciated good food. So Beccofino positions itself as a place for fine beaks, and having put it to the test, I'm inclined to agree.

The spacious, stylish and cosy Beccofino on Thong Lor.

Chef and co-owner Angelo Rottoli was at the celebrated three-Michelin-star Enoteca Pinchiorri when the owners decided to open in Tokyo. This brought Angelo to Asia; in 2002 he moved to Bangkok to open The Sukhothai Hotel's La Scala Italian restaurant, before opening Beccofino five years ago.

The premises are spacious and the ceiling is lofty, but if you're seated in the main dining area by the window facing out onto Thong Lor, it is quite cosy. The fine dining accoutrements - the tablecloths, silverware and stemware - are all of good quality, but the atmosphere is comfortingly relaxed and restaurant manager Julien Allain will make sure you are well taken care of.

Chef Angelo has made a number of menus available. His grill menu features prime beef from Argentina, Australia, the USA and Japan, ensuring a wide range of preferences and prices. In addition to the a la carte Italian menu, there is an Aperitivo menu, two-course and three-course set meals at 450 and 650 baht respectively.

Roast John Dory with seasonal baby vegetables.

Then there is the Gourmet City menu featuring the cuisine of one city or region of Italy at 1,200 baht, but to avoid confusion we chose from the a la carte menu, with many seasonal imported ingredients.

The whole leg of Spanish Iberico ham mounted on a frame and carved into fine slices at your table with melon (800 baht) makes an impressive start. There is a sweetness about this long-cured ham that forms a mouthwatering alliance with melon.

As a second starter we chose steamed marinated lobster with black truffle (680 baht), brining together earth and sea in the dark notes of truffle combined with the sweetish taste of the lobster.

From the pasta list, we chose a robust ravioli filled with fresh Italian sausage (360 baht), and baby penne with blue cheese fondue and mushrooms (390 baht), a good mix of flavours and textures nicely served in a bowl made from a pumpkin.

Baby penne with cheese fondue and mushrooms served in a pumpkin.

The main course menu includes such favourite Italian specialities as saltimbocca ("leaps into the mouth"), veal wrapped in pancetta and sage served with artichokes and truffle mash (650 baht); and risotto with foie gras and Barolo wine (580 baht) for those who like comfort food with a touch of luxury.

However, we decided to go for the grill, which is by no means confined to beef: imported fish and seafood also make a good showing. My companion wanted the best of beef and opted for the seductively marbled Japanese Kobe striploin (1,400 baht), tender to the point of softness and rich in juice and beefy flavour.

I chose fish, fresh roast John Dory with seasonal baby vegetables (550 baht). The vegetables, carrots and asparagus, were cooked al dente and were full of flavour. Some had been sliced into very small dice with onions and tomatoes and placed on the crisp skin of the tender white fish.

We asked Kit Marshal, Beccofino's other owner, to recommend a white and a red wine by the glass and the choice could not have been better: Le Rime, a blend of chardonnay and pinot grigio from Castello Banfi (225 baht) and Santa Cristina sangiovese (280 baht) from Antinori.

The dessert trolley contained the Italian family favourites pannacotta, tiramisu and warm chocolate tortino, but we went for the lemon tart (250 baht) for its refreshing blend of sweetness and sharpness in a light crust.

Beccofino is close to Thong Lo Soi 4, and if you're driving, it has a car park just around the corner in the soi. And if you happen to be a "becco fino", do give it a try, you're sure to feel at home there.

Iberico ham from Spain makes an impressive start.

Relate Search: Beccofino, Thong Lo Soi 4