Jewels of Piedmont

FOOD PROMOTION

One of the most precious gastronomic jewels of Italian cuisine is the truffle. And the best and, of course, most expensive truffles in the world are Alba white truffles from the Piedmont region of northern Italy. One kilogram of Alba truffles was said to cost more than 200,000 baht at the time.

White truffle risotto with Boston lobster and Sora cheese fondue. PHOTOS: ANUSORN SAKSEREE

It might not be an exaggeration to say that Biscotti, the Italian restaurant of Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, is the best place in town if you wish to savour the world famous flavours and produce of Piedmont, including its truffles.

On top of that Biscotti's chef, Danilo Aiassa is a native of Alba, Piedmont, and a second to none when it comes to concocting impressive flavours with ingredients from his hometown. The restaurant is presenting the world's most luxurious mushroom in its Truffle Promotion which runs from today until Sunday, November 29.

Delight your taste buds with a selection of specially prepared dishes made with black or white truffles by chef Danilo. And to make this year's promotion even more special, four of the finest wines from the Piedmont region have been neatly chosen to compliment the exquisite menu. These are Gavi DOCG 2008 from Dei Marchesi, Dolcetto DOC 2008 from Angelo Negro, Sito Moresco DOC 2007 from Gaja and Barolo "Dagromis" DOCG 2004 from Gaja. Such premium quality vinos are offered by the glass  -  a bold decision of the restaurant management and a rare chance for wine lovers.

The first dish that hit our table was crusted mollet eggs with white truffles, mashed celeriac and Robiolino cheese fondue (2,100 baht). This simple looking dish has confirmed the fact that the precious truffle always tastes best when accompanied by as simple an ingredient as egg. The delicate flavour of the boiled egg, which had been slightly fried on the outside to create some crusty feel, intermingled superbly with the flavoursome cheese sauce and the fragrant shaved truffle.

Gavi DOCG 2008 from Dei Marchesi.

Following the egg was pan-fried langoustine with white truffle and cheese fondue made with Cardo Tortino and Toma cheese (2,500 baht). This European prawn dish was highlighted by the characteristic aroma of the fancy mushroom and the savoury cheese fondue.

The two starters were suggested to be best enjoyed with Gavi DOCG 2008 from Dei Marchesi. Made with Cortese grapes, this white wine, which was golden yellow in colour and served in a contemporary-looking bottle, offered a fresh and smooth taste with a touch of floral and peach aromas that will nicely refresh your palate after the creamy fare.

The flavours got more and more intense as dinner proceeded. The third course to be served was white truffle risotto with Boston lobster and Sora cheese fondue (2,500 baht). An avid fan of Italian rice, I found the dish very impressive with a delightfully sharp taste of the cheese (a subtle blend of saltiness and tanginess) and the generous portion of the shaved truffle. Risotto is another dish that is popularly matched with truffle, and chef Danilo has proved that when it comes to putting the two together, he is the master.

To pair with the pungent risotto dish was Borolo "Dagromis" DOCG 2004 from Gaja. The Gaja winery was founded in 1859 and has been owned and operated by four generations of the Gaja family. Today, the Gaja winery with vineyards that occupy more than 250 acres in Piedmont is known as one of the best wineries in Italy. Made with Nebbiolo grapes grown in vineyards rich with clay and marl and at 985 to 1,475 feet above sea level, this medium-bodied red offered a perfumed and rich flavour with rose and anise scents and cherry, orange peel and subtle green herb tones.

Roasted turbot fish with black truffle, braised endives, Jerusalem artichokes and Tomino cheese fondue (2,800 baht) was our main meat course. The turbot is prized for the smooth white meat that is mildly sweet in flavour and firm yet tender in texture. The seafood was seasoned by the zesty flavour of the cheese dressing, the pleasant tartness of the endive, the chewiness of the artichokes and the woody aroma of the truffle.

There's no special truffle-laced dessert to wrap up the special truffle meal. But it's not such a bad idea to pick one from Biscotti's dessert list.

The Truffle Promotion, featuring Alba truffles in seven savoury dishes that can be paired with the finest wines from Piedmont, is available for lunch and dinner at Biscotti, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, until Sunday, November 29. For reservations, please call 02-126-8866.

Pan-fried langoustine with white truffle and cheese fondue made with Cardo Tortino and Toma cheese.

Relate Search: Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, Biscotti chef, Danilo Aiassa, Piedmont