The ultimate list, and Thai winners

WHY Wine

Last week I gave you a list of wines declared by French sommelier Eric Beaumard as the foundation of an amateur cellar. This week we shall take a look at the ultimate list he gave in his little book, Les 100 meilleurs vins pour une cave ideale. Wines that we must taste at least once in our life.

So you should not leave this world without having at least enjoyed a glass of these three superb Bordeaux: Chateau Latour (a red Pauillac); Chateau Laville-Haut-Brion (a white Pessac-Leognan from the Graves region) and Chateau d'Yquem, the word's most famous late-harvested wine. If from a good year, you can keep your Chateau Laville-Haut-Brion for some 10 to 15 years; Latour will last at least 35 to 40 years in a good cellar. Extend that to 50 or more for a Chateau d'Yquem.

The Laville-Haut-Brion is, of course, the white wine from Chateau Haut-Brion, made of semillon and sauvignon. Beaumard considers it one of greatest semillons in the world. He likes it with lobster or caviar.

Hugh Johnson describes the Chateau Latour as "Profound, intense, almost immortal." He is right. As for Yquem, I can still taste the complex flavours of a bottle of 1932 Yquem I drank not so long ago.

The list includes two special white wines little known in Thailand: the unique Chateau-Chalon, from the Jura, one of the very few whites that must be served at room temperature (no more than 18 degrees please). It is an Appellation Controllee (AC) by itself and is released after spending six years in barrel and can age forever, almost. It tastes more like a dry sherry than a wine. The other special white is the Chateau Grillet, another tiny AC from the Northern Rhone made entirely from viognier and that should keep at least 10 years. The wine is enjoying a revival and is better than ever.

Another white is the Riesling du Rangen de Thann from Zind-Humbrecht which will last for 25 years. This riesling comes from the village of Thann, and a single vineyard called Rangen. Wines from Domain Zind-Humbrecht are usually powerful, concentrated and very rich. They do not come cheap, nor would a Pouilly-Fume from the domain of the late Didier Dagueneau. If you think that you know Pouilly-Fume, wait until you taste one of DD's wines. They are masterpieces. Killed not long ago in an accident, Didier is now - I'm sure - in charge of some of the best vineyards in heaven.

The two Burgundy whites are indeed incomparable: the top Montrachet is owned by the domaine of Romanee-Conti. This chardonnay is as long lasting in the mouth as in the cellar - notable Montrachet also come from Leflaive, Ramonet and Marc Collin & Fils. If you can afford it, then why not drink it with caviar?

The Corton-Charlemagne is another Burgundy that is absolutely fabulous when from a top producer. This is another long-lasting wine.

Beaumard adds two reds from the Cotes du Rhone area - one Chateauneuf-du-pape from Chateau Rayas and an Hermitage from Domaine Jean Louis Chave. Both will keep for 20 years and demonstrate what an exceptional region the Rhone is when in the hands of dedicated artists. Last but not least comes one of the greatest wines in the world (I would say the greatest, but I'm partial to Burgundies): the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Excellent when young, extraordinarily complex when aged, it will last forever in your mouth and at least 25 to 30 years or more in your cellar.

One problem with this list is most wines must age for years. Either one makes money at a young age and enjoys the wines at their best, or you buy when approaching what they ironically call your golden years, and you leave it to the kids. Life is unfair indeed.

And now for a few good wines you can buy right now and enjoy within the next few months. They are not too expensive, are ready and will provide much pleasure - and they come from Thailand.

These are wines that just won bronze medals at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair, all from 2009 - the Alcidini Syrah, the GranMonte Sakuna Rose Syrah, the GranMonte Sole Chenin Blanc, the Monsoon Valley (Siam Winery) Colombard and the Pirom Reserve Chenin Blanc.

Somebody should print a sticker that says: "Support your local wineries." The main reason to drink them: not just because these are Thai wines. These are good Thai wines.

Email: chateaudo377@gmail.com