Bangkok Post reviews
- Writer: Bangkok Post Editorial
- Published: February 28, 2014 at 8:54 am
Dutch pancakes make their début in in Bangkok
After munching through five different Dutch baby pancakes, it’s still hard to pinpoint the appropriate words to describe this curious dish and that’s for one, clear reason: there haven’t been any in Bangkok and it deserves to be in a class of its own. Panary Café, a new dessert staple that burst onto the Ari scene about half-a-year ago, serves this delightful nosh that tastes something like a pancake crossed with a roti.
Owner Walaya tells us it’s something Americans developed, but was probably derived from the German pancake dish. Apparently people from back in the day mispronounced “Deutsche”, which led to the dish being coined “Dutch baby”. From Walaya’s experience in the US, Dutch baby pancakes there are mostly limited to a topping of apples, while those in Japan have a larger variety of toppings. Regardless, they were humongous — in other words, a portion too crazy-huge that Thai people would never finish. Panary Café has refined the usual size to make theirs 5cm smaller in diameter to fill you just right, whichever meal of the day.
Strawberry & Marshmallow Milkshake.
Baked in a cast iron pan to achieve a crispy high rise, these pancakes look like a bird’s nest with delectable toppings inside. Though there are sweet and savoury offerings, we really liked the savoury best — which makes it a fitting and unique option for brunch. One of the best-sellers is Salmon & Cream Cheese (195 baht), which includes smoked salmon, a salad tossed with balsamic vinegar and a winning ball of wasabi cream cheese. This hearty selection doesn’t skimp on dressing and the salmon is delicious as is, but the light wasabi in the cream cheese gives the dish that special kick, making it unforgettable.
The other savoury pancake we tried — Sausage & Spinach (195 baht) — is filled with baked juiciness: smoked sausage, spinach, cheddar cheese and a secret sauce that makes everything luscious. It’s a colourful choice for the eyes and palate, with the reds, yellows, oranges and greens bringing a different sort of saltiness and sweetness to complement the puff-like pancake.
One of the don’t-miss sweets is the Custard Cream & Berry Sauce (165 baht). Everything about the dessert fillings is home-made, with their light and silky custard heavy with the taste and aroma of vanilla. Things would have tasted more balanced if the home-made berry sauce was tangier, but alas, only the uncontrollable sweet batch of fruits can be blamed. Other fruity choices that are just as sweet without going overboard are the Caramel Apple & Vanilla Sauce (165 baht), and the Orange Delight (165 baht), which comes with an interesting orange cream cheese that leaves a heavy aftertaste in your mouth.
All of their drinks on the long list are mouth-watering. The Strawberry & Marshmallow milkshake (125 baht) is deliciously rich the way it should be — (served the American way) with blended ice cream, rather than milk. Another drink worth trying that gives you a warm, fuzzy feeling is the Honey White Choc Matcha Latte (105 baht), not too sweet and lush with the aroma of green tea.
Ultimately, it’s still a challenge to put this puffy-but-not-flaky pancake into words — but by far, it’s an unexpected, yet pleasant texture. Plus, the cutesy birdhouse-like decor of the place will not leave you disappointed.
Visit Panary Café, Ground floor, Noble Reform Building, Soi Aree, Phahon Yothin Road. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-9pm. Call 02-116-6889.