Indian Sunday brunch munchies requited

Some surprising things emerge from a Sunday brunch-time visit to Rang Mahal, that much-awarded bastion of elite Indian cuisine and culture, enhanced with sparkling 26th floor city centre views.

The food isn’t over-spiced and over-priced as upscale Indian eateries tend to be. And yet it is as authentic and exquisite as its maharaja inspiration indicates, not least thanks to the three Indian chefs who lead the cooking team, led by Head Chef Rajan who has been with the restaurant since it opened, some 15 years.

Equating to a “palace of wind” or well-appointed sala, Rang Mahal’s enchanting ambiance transports you to the far pavilions of Rajasthan. Divided into two main areas by exquisitely carved  white stone arches and pillars, to one side is a delightful courtyard with elegant marble flooring surrounded by private enclaves and to the other the entire wall is floor-to-ceiling glass and an al-fresco terrace scoping the city.

Pucker green, cream and saffron pastels interweave with original artworks depicting Sidharthan scenes in watercolours and liquid gold, lavishly upholstered sofas, antique textile drapes and intricately carved zharonkas, regal antique window shutters that speak of hidden pleasures. Sensuously smooth sitar and tabla soundtracks play between evocative live classical Indian music sets from the resident band.

The Sunday Brunch menus are so extensive that not even a real Maharaja would contemplate sampling everything at a sitting. One of the two menu rotations of at least 60 dishes each reads like this.

Indian drinks include sweet and salted lassis, the former sweet churned milk with a touch of saffron and pistachio, the latter salted churned milk with cumin powder. Plus Jal Jeera, lightly flavoured with cumin, lime and mint leaves, and fresh juices.

On the salad station there’s: Papri Chaat, semolina pancakes with yoghurt, tamarind sauce and mint sauce; Boondi Raita, yoghurt with chickpea flour pearls; Bhel Kachori Khasta, an Indian appetizer made of flaky pastry; Dhokla, gram flour appetizer, flavoured with herbs; Paneer Zafrani Roll, cottage cheese dices marinated with Indian masala wrapped in bread; Murgh Kathi Roll, juliennes of chicken marinated in masala, wrapped in Indian bread; Mahi Kathi Roll, fish fillet marinated with herbs, wrapped in Indian bread; Prawn Stuffed Idli, a south Indian rice pancake stuffed with prawn; Kashmiri Nargisi Lamb, boiled egg coated with minced lamb preparation marinated with herbs, spices and deep-fried to perfection; Kele Ki Tikki, deep-fried banana patty; Murgh Ki Tikki, deep-fried chicken patty flavoured with herbs; Paneer Sevian Croquet, deep-fried cottage cheese patty topped with vermicelli; plus international salads.

This brings you to the Indian Live Kebab Station with: Murgh Malai Kebab, a delicate combination of chicken and cream cheese, cooked in a tandoor; Methi Machli Kebab, boneless pieces of fish marinated in Indian spices, cooked in a tandoor; Subz Kebab, deep-fried mixed vegetable patties; Tandoori Salad, capsicum, cottage cheese, onions, pineapple and tomatoes, cooked in a clay oven; Kathi Kebabs — vegetarian, chicken, seafood, lamb and cheese wrapped in Indian bread.

The magnificent carving station boasts: Roasted whole leg of lamb marinated in Indian spices and herbs cooked in a tandoor; and Salted Crusted Whole roasted sea bass fish stuffed with garlic, onions and lemongrass.

A Street Food Of India section ranges: Vegetable Samosa, deep-fried puff pastry stuffed with potatoes and green peas, served with tamarind sauce; Bread Pakora, deep-fried bread slices stuffed with potato masala and herbs; Pao Bhaji, an any time snack of bread and potatoes.

Yet another station features South Indian dishes: Masala Dosa, thin flat bread stuffed with potatoes; Vada, an all-time favourite south Indian specialty made of gram flour; Sambhar, a lentil side dish; and Coconut Chutney tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves.

Now we’re getting into the signature main course curries and breads: Jheenga Kadhai, wok fried prawns cooked with onions, tomatoes, Indian herbs and spices; Murgh Makhanwala, succulent chicken simmered in creamy fenugreek flavoured gravy; Mutton Vindaloo, spicy combination of mutton and potatoes, cooked in tomato gravy; Mutton DUM Biryani, layers of Basmati rice and spiced mutton; Palak Paneer, creamed spinach and cottage cheese flavoured with garlic; Bhindi Do Piazza, Okra, fried and cooked with sliced onions and spices; Vegetable Jaipuri, assorted seasonal vegetables in a yellow gravy; Bhature, deep-fried bread made of refined flour; Chana Masala, chickpea curry cooked with onions and tomatoes; Daal Rang Mahal, black lentils simmered overnight and laced with butter and cream; Daal Tadka, yellow lentils cooked with a blend of cumin and chilies; Plain steamed Basmati rice; Assorted Naan, Garlic Naan, Laccha Paratha, Tandoori Roti breads.

Indian dips, condiments and accompaniments range multiple chutneys, spicy pickle and yoghurt formulations.

The house sugar or salt lassies are spot-on, but the allure of trying a bottle of Chateau Indage, a blend of Sauvignon and Semillon grapes, believe it or not hailing from Sabyadri, is tantalizing too.

Echeverria, including red carmenere which is low in acid and tannins does a wonderful job of complementing the richness and spiciness of the food. There’s even a good bubbly to go with the feast of flavours: Ivy Brew.

And so to dessert: Moong Daal Halwa, a desi ghee and lentil halwa; Gulab Jamun, cream cheese dumplings flavoured with cardamom; Kesari Phirni, Basmati rice reduced with milk and flavoured with saffron along with assorted international desserts, macaroons and ice creams.

For a digestive, the house masala tea encapsulates the ethos of proper Indian cuisine. Here some 61 different kinds of masala are blended in precise proportions to achieve a mixture that, when combined with freshly brewed Darjeeling tea and a dash of milk, produces a drink as irresistibly distinct as Rang Mahal’s finest dishes.

No need to visit the Pink City plains nor India’s silicon valleys for a taste of the maharaja high life. A far more convenient proposition is Sunday Brunch (11.00am-2.30pm) right here.