The combination of a good hearty meal in comforting ambience and the humble attitude of the establishment always casts a spell on austere restaurant reviewers.
As surprising as it sounds, such a heartfelt formula was recently found at Lady L, a seven-month-old restaurant named after a Thai marquise and business tycoon well known for her world-class savoir-faire.
The restaurant is set on the breathtakingly beautiful grounds of the residence of the late Phraya Bhakdinorasresth and his wife, Thanphuying Lursakdi, the "Lady L", Sampatisiri.
The property built in 1915, opened to public in 2016 as a heritage museum and boasts 15 rai on which a cluster of traditional Thai-style houses are built amid a verdant landscaped garden and private canal.
Under the helm of Naphaporn Bodiratnangkura, Lursakdi's granddaughter, the family-run museum compound is graced by two restaurants. Lady L, set as a garden bistro, serves all-day dining, home-style Western cuisine, while its sister eatery Ma Maison specialises in authentic Thai fare.
The kitchens of both are run by a team of veteran chefs. Some have been with the family, which previously owned a 5-star hotel, for more than three decades.
Thus, the menus are built around the noble household's favourite dishes. Recipes, especially Western, take cues from culinary renditions Lursakdi and her offspring came across while travelling.
The seven-month-old garden bistro is set in a breathtakingly beautiful heritage compound built in 1915.
No detail here is less than sophisticated -- gastronomically and visually.
The 60-seat restaurant is constructed around an age-old tree to avoid cutting the topiary heirloom. Its French conservatory-inspired dining chamber, into which natural light pours, is lent warm illumination at night and has a cosy feel while portraying elegance.
Dining guests (a few of them in casual jogging attire during my late afternoon visit) are treated to a complimentary assortment of house-made breads -- soda bread, ciabatta, hard rolls and mini baguettes.
The Cobb salad (480 baht), a jumble of neatly chopped chicken breast, crispy bacon, boiled egg, tomato and avocado dressed with a red wine vinaigrette and blue cheese crumb, proved scrumptious as a healthy starter.
If you are in the mood for a richer affair, kick off with the deep-fried Camembert sumptuously complemented by home-made cranberry chutney (320 baht).
Every corner offers a warm and cosy feel while portraying world-class elegance.
Continuing to provide homely delight is the piping hot, creamy leek soup with mussels and a flaky bread ball (300 baht). As will the home-made angel hair pasta with freshly grated summer black truffle and thick truffle cream sauce (360 baht).
My dear readers, I can't afford not to share that there have been a number of delicacies -- savoury and sweet -- at Lady L that I found to be the best in town in my 16-year career.
The first being beef Wellington (1,250 baht). This classic dish of Lady L's household impeccably showcases a medium-cooked beef tenderloin, which is so tasty and lean yet does not fail to present its tender hallmark, in an aromatically buttery, golden brown puff pastry shell.
Despite the fact that I'm not much of a poultry fan, the bistro's delicious whole roasted baby chicken with sautéed baby carrots and roasted potatoes (540 baht) almost made me lick the plate clean.
The chicken, free-range and herb-fed, is marinated and cooked to the chef's secret recipe and boasts a glossy, butter-brushed skin that reveals extraordinary succulent and flavourful meat.
I, by chance, happened to have reviewed quite a few sticky toffee puddings in the past couple of months. And Lady L's rendition (220 baht) proved exceptional.
Beef Wellington with red wine gravy.
The date-seethed sponge cake is supple, juicy and not overly sweet. The moist cake is excellently enhanced by a butterscotch sauce, which is gooey rather than runny, and is served with home-made salted caramel ice cream. The briny sweet and buttery dessert promises to make you unapologetically hold on to the spoon until the very last bite.
Another item that unexpectedly captured my heart was the Cronut (120 baht). Being a person who tends to have a faint trust in modern-day food fads, I surprisingly found myself announcing my pleasing impression on Lady L's flawless rendition.
The deep-fried, doughnut-shaped pastry made with croissant dough exhibited a fine layering texture that is brittle and buttery soft.
Taste-wise, it is a hybrid between a sweet croissant and fresh-off-the-wok pa tong ko (Chinese-styled deep-fried dough). I took a few Cronuts home and, when reheated, they retained their crispy perfection even after being refrigerated overnight.
The Cronut comes with different fillings. I chose the pandanus custard and strawberry jam, which were as impeccably good as the pastry shell.
A nice selection of cocktails, mocktails, juice and smoothies are available.
The bistro has a patisserie counter offering a variety of takeaway pastries and light bites, from cakes, brownies, pies and muffins to croissants, quiches and sandwiches.
Service, by English speaking staff, is enjoyable.
Cobb salad with balsamic vinaigrette.
