Rang Mahal recalibrates

Indian restaurants are rarely featured by local hotel developers unless they are themselves Indian. Twenty years ago there were only two such in existence. One of them bit the dust. That left Rang Mahal still opulently couched on its palanquin 26 storeys above terra firma at The Rembrandt Bangkok Hotel. But not alone, as an eclectic band of newcomers carved niches.

Any forebodings that the upstarts would turn the table on the plush, pastel-shades Far Pavilion maharajan palace-style penthouse operation proved samosas in the sky.

Even as it has recently acquired a trendy skybar, 1826, as neighbour, Rang Mahal has shown you don't need fusion or fancy tasting menus to melt hearts.

Nevertheless, spotting a rising tide of travelled Thai foodies finally embracing the pungent joys of Indian cuisine, the team mentored by Director of F&B, Sundeep Nellore, and Head Chef of 16 years, Rajan Misra, decided to at least recreate the multi award-winning menu.

Already mooting a makeover that would mean closing completely for months, instead it was agreed to, for now, buff up all the extant silver plated goblets, cutlery, condiment sets and thali dishes, retain the starched white cloth service, fly the new menu flag and see who saluted.

It couldn't have turned out better. More seafood settled sensitive Thai stomachs and vegie selections were beefed up. With the number of Indian chefs doubled from three to six, skill and authenticity is accentuated.

They've primped the complementary masala papad with mint, tomato, and "legendary" papaya relishes. But that's just a precursor.

All new items include, among others:

- Bhutte Ke Kebab (370++) Pan-fried minced corn patty with cottage cheese.

- Malai (cheese) Broccoli (345++) Crunchy yet yielding and creamy broccoli marinated in cream cheese, yogurt and green cardamom, cooked in the tandoor, served with spicy sauces.

- Karara Kekra (320++) Sublimely crabby and succulent deep-fried gram flour-coated soft shell crab Goa-style on banana leaf-covered mud plate.

- Among the non-vegetarian kebabs, the superb Salmon Tikka (620++) is prime salmon marinated with caraway seeds, yellow mustard and chili, cooked with ginger and garlic over buttered charcoal for smoke and heat.

- The secret of Dal-Maa-Rang Mahal (340++)'s sweet creamy earthiness is slow-cooking black lentils enveloped in tomato, garlic, butter and cream overnight.

- Kadi Palak Pakori (340++) Spinach dumpling in a yogurt and gram flour gravy underlines the ethic that vegetarian dishes should be as tasty as any.

- Spicy Bombay Aloo (340++), sautéed potatoes tempered with chili and cumin.

- Leading the non-vegetarian curries is awesome Bhuna Gosht – boneless, 2-days marinated mutton barbecued and tossed in onion and tomato gravy (590++) so the sauce seeps into the meat.

- Murgh Madrasi (490++) is South Indian style chicken curry tempered with curry leaf, mustard seeds, chili and coconut milk.

- Fancy rice with that? Jheengha Biryani (750++) combines basmati rice and prawn, sprinkled with fresh herbs and spices, steamed in a silver pot, accompanied with mildly spiced yoghurt condiment.

- Rotiyan are also outstanding with the most original, jalapeno and olive naan (150++), simply addictive.

Desserts include both traditional and fusion items such as the excellent Tiramisu Ras Gula, or Indian cream stuffed mascarpone.

A couple of individual set dinners, Maharaja (1,395++) and Maharani (1,195++) include much of the above and more.

Sunday Brunch (1,250++) has also been revamped with more live stations.

Regulars fear not: the most popular items from the previous menu have been retained and the chefs will make anything requested for which they have ingredients.

Verdict: no renovation required.