The recipient of many awards, Angelini is one of the best restaurants in Bangkok. And now things have got even better for diners, because this Italian heavyweight offers a special deal, with a 30 per cent discount on food until December 30, except December 5, 24 and 25. All you need do to qualify is share or post your dining experience on Facebook or Instagram and tag @shangrilabkk. It's an ideal benefit for family, friends and parties, as it's available for between four and 25 diners.
So, what can we expect from the menu? The answer is first class Italian food from a chef who has cooking in his bones. Omar Ugoletti had his initial taste of kitchen duties as a schoolboy in his father's pizzeria, and has never looked back, working at many restaurants, including six years at the Michelin-starred Il Saraghino. Before Bangkok, he was at the fine dining Cépe Restaurant, in The Ritz Carlton, Beijing.
At Angelini he's busy with his team behind the open kitchen, which is the focal point of the mezzanine section of this gigantic restaurant dominated by three-storey picture windows.
The interior has a very casual vibe, emphasised through linen-free wooden tables, comfortable cream armchairs and lively, but not too bright, lighting. The pizza ovens are ablaze at one end of the kitchen. Statuesque pillars drop from the high ceiling to the ground floor, where there are more dining tables and two bars to sit at. There's another, more secluded, bar on the mezzanine, which is a good place for pre- or post-dinner drinks. But the most romantic spot is al fresco, on the terrace, beneath the palm trees overlooking a floodlit swimming pool and the busy Chao Phraya river.
We began with roasted tuna (B580), which came well seared on the surface and practically raw within, just as it should be. It was a lovely, light opener to the meal, served with a dressed bread and tomato salad called panzanella, with tiny cubes of seasonal organic vegetables and a very subtle citrus thyme vinaigrette. It was early proof that the chef has a delicate touch. Also among the appetisers was a tasty scallop carpaccio (B600), lifted by crispy Italian bacon, celery, tomatoes and a fine parsley sauce.
To drink we chose Framingham, Sauvignon Blanc 2013, from Marlborough, New Zealand, priced at B520, which is a well balanced wine, slightly petillant, with good acidity and elevated tropical fruits on the nose and palate. It comes as part of a very long, well crafted wine list that covers many old and new world regions and has 20 labels by the glass, from B320-B520, including rosés, sparklers, desserts, and a champagne at B1200. Bottles start at B2,150 and finish with a regal Chateau Margaux '98 (B62,000), which is one of several cru classés. In addition, the cocktail menu has classics and signatures, plus options made with teas and champagnes.
As well as the usual appetiser, main course and dessert sections, the food menu also has risottos and pastas (both available as starters or main courses), plus soups, pizzas and a vegetarian section.
We shared a homemade tortellini (B430/B580) topped with carrot foam and stuffed with liquid Parmesan cheese. It came in a restrained sauce of tomatoes and basil pesto, sprinkled with capers and cubes of goat's cheese. The beautifully sweet tomatoes worked particularly well with the salty punch of parmesan.
Our main courses included pan-fried halibut (B1,480) in a bread crust flavoured with herbs, served with tomato confit, clams and parsley sauce; and a beautifully cooked white wine poached cod (B1,200) with capers, Sabina olive oil and vine ripened cherry tomatoes.
But the highlight of the show was 16 hour slow cooked rolled pork (B820) with red cabbage, caramelised shallots and roasted potatoes. It arrived as a boneless roll of wonderfully tender suckling pig, which had been roasted at 100 degrees, wrapped in a delicately crispy skin due to a finish of pan frying. The rich flavours were well balanced by the gentle acidity and sweetness of the red cabbage, and a wine choice of Domaine Chandon, Shiraz 2007, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia (B460).
Finish with a selection of traditional based desserts, such as frozen coffee sabayon (B320) with almond tuille and vanilla ice-cream; or Sicilian cassata with strawberry ice-cream (B340), in which the frozen cassata ice cream is stuffed with dried and candied fruits and served with strawberry sauce. It's an impressive end to the meal, especially when paired with the dessert wine Valfieri, Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy, 2010 (B400).
Angelini ticks a lot of boxes, being relaxed enough for a casual meal with friends, but also with a grandeur that would suit a very special dining occasion. And now that we can get a 30 percent discount, it's the perfect choice for an end of year blow out.
ANGELINI Shangri-La Hotel
Tel. 02 236 9952,
www.bangkokriversidedining.com
Daily 6pm-10.30pm.
