Believe it or not, there are still some solvent Bangkokian fans of Thai food who've never been to Blue Elephant. That's the Thai restaurant and cooking school whose skin is that remarkably restored century-old mansion that stands sentinel in stark contrast to the sheer black-glass tower behind that is the headquarters of its landlord, the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce, and a manicured lawn away from the equally incongruous stanchions of Surasak Skytrain station.
However, there at least two fewer of those unfortunates now that a 12-year Canadian resident of Bangkok, and yours truly, have joined those in-the-know that it is everything everyone from the press to TripAdvisor (it's a Travelers' Choice™ 2014 Winner) pundits crack it up to be.
The Canadian expressed profound contrition for his lapse and promised to make up for it. Ditto here.
Founder and Master Chef of Blue Elephant Int., Nooror Steppe-Somany, is key to making it a 'must'. Born into a Chachoengsao family, her Muslim father butchered beef while her Buddhist mother was a recognised curry paste whizz. As a sideline, they ran a small restaurant.
So much for having the right background. Things progressed dramatically when Nooror's brother was studying hotel management in Brussels. When she joined him, he introduced her to Karl Steppe, an antique dealer. Two years later they married. Now they have three equally enterprising children.
Around 1980, Belgian Thai restaurant pioneers, Chai Wayno and Somboon Insusri, convinced the young couple to start a Thai restaurant which they named Blue Elephant, a reference to the shape and national animal of Thailand, the country's royal colour, the saying that elephants never forget and the fact that customers would especially not forget a blue pachyderm.
Thirty-something years of dedication later, there are 10 branches of Blue Elephant (Brussels, London, Copenhagen, Paris, Lyon, Dubai, Malta, Bangkok, Phuket and Jakarta). Authenticity is maintained by the Blue Elephant trading office which distributes fresh produce from Thai markets. It also handles purchasing of personalised furniture, china, artifacts and so on. Indeed, they don't leave much to chance, ranging elephant-monogrammed glasses, serviettes and table cloths to own-label red and white wines.
Each restaurant is housed in a distinguished period home meticulously restored to BE Bangkok standards and eloquently expounds on classic Thai cuisine while also evolving it.
What's more, Nooror is an open-source rebel, freely passing on her accumulated expertise through Blue Elephant Thai Cooking School.
But that's on the top floor of the beautiful building in Bangkok – above the 1st floor bar and lounge and private dining rooms and ground floor restaurant and kitchen. To the left of the entrance is a shop stocked with extensive own-label products, creating an impression that echoes the entrances to stately homes and museums in Europe, especially those featuring an adjoining gastro café (note that the Paris branch is located at The Bastille!).
A bit of background to the flagship Bangkok building is apropos. It was built in 1903 as the then highly fashionable Bombay Department Store. But within 30 years it's star had waned and it was purchased by a group of affluent Chinese tycoons who founded TCCC. Tenancy changed again during WWII as the Imperial Japanese Army commandeered it but it was subsequently restored to its rightful owners. It remained TCCC's HQ until said tower behind was completed. Meanwhile, the Fine Arts Department slapped a preservation order on it, making it exactly the sort of challenge Noroor and Karl see as synonymous with the Blue Elephant ethos.
As run down as the building was when they took it on, two top-to-toe refurbishments later, it is as if it had just been minted. A cream, green and brown Sino-Portuguese-style mansion embracing hardwoods and tile, steps and fans, lush plants and trickling fountains, high ceilings and long sight-lines across packed dining rooms, it is simply enchanting.
The subtle scent of tropical flowers mingles with the heady aroma of exotic herbs and spices. Superb Royal Thai cuisine populates its deliciously diverse menu. Most recipes are centuries old, faithfully handed down through generations. Others are new variations on traditional themes.
We tried three starters, all superb. One was a salad of crispy minced rice-field catfish and river prawns with organic lemongrass and ginger, tossed in a spicy lime dressing. Another was a smooth and intensely tasty soufflé of crispy crab meat in red curry paste with basil leaves. Thirdly was a purple eggplant salad with grilled scallops, herbal spiciness and a hint of chili.
For our mains we had Nue Tod Tom Tou, tender slices of marinated prime Australian beef stir-fried to buttery perfection accompanied with hand-shredded raw long bean.
Another dish was a red curry of rice field mussels in coconut milk and pineapple, sea salt and soya sauce, garnished with Thai basil leaves and red Serrano chilies and served in a half pineapple.
Then there was a hot and spicy sautee of seabass with cumin leaf and, from the deep south, Noroor's grandmother's recipe for tender lamb massaman.
Our assorted mixed Thai desserts were equally impressively finessed. I loved the rice cereal pudding, blandly grey in appearance but with a sublimely smooth texture and delectable flavor. Similarly the neutrally sweet chestunut cake with contrasting crispy shallot. Exemplifying the phenomenal effort that goes into every aspect of BE was the plum-red shertbet of karonda fruit, like large cranberries which are inedibly sour fresh but when stewed properly produce a still sharp but fabulously fruity flavor. This was set on a bed of the famous Belgian Speculus cookies for contrastingly sweet crunch.
Those who like to eat their main meal midday are also well served by BE's business set lunches, comprising three starters, a soup, three main courses with rice and a dessert, priced THB 640 without soup and THB 740 with. Special set lunches on Saturday and Sunday feature "Zakouski", pan-seared foie gras with golden tamarind sauce. (THB980/THB1,100).
BE is defined by the delectable balance it strikes between continuing the classical tradition while allowing it to blossom. Its Thai cuisine is very much alive and evolving. One of the drivers is the Royal Projects whose resourceful approach to agriculture has introduced everything from eggplant to avocados to chestnuts to local menus, all of which Blue Elephant has taken to heart.
Nor is Noroor afraid to innovate and admits to truffle oil being a favored ingredient as well as those Speculuses.
Such openness to new ideas matched by an irrepressible creative streak led to BE originating such dishes as lamb massaman, salmon laap and foie gras-tamarind that now appear on many menus.
With such a reputation, Noroor's done demos at Thai diplomatic representations all over the world.
In sum, the opportunity to experience BE evolution should always be taken sooner rather than later.
BLUE ELEPHANT 233 South Sathorn Road. Tel. 02 673 9353-8.
