My, how Empire Tower has struck back! For a while following its 1999 launch, Bangkok's tallest all-office skyscraper seemed on the brink of disproving the 'too big to fail' adage.
But what a difference some property smarts have made. Now with its cathedralesque curved glass ceiling, like a see-through version of the neighbouring Chongnonsri BTS – Sathorn BRT pedestrian overpass, covering the cavernous space between the front and rear buildings and escalators snaking every whichway, it is emerging as a foodies' paradise, adding swagger to the regular pacing of the milling masses.
Meanwhile, the cream has risen to the top in the form of The Capital, a slick American restaurant and bar developed by the burgeoning Water Library group on lucky level 3.
Looking up and to the right as the escalator ascends to within steps of its entrance, you see a high carbon black steel-framed construct which, with its old-fashioned Roman numeral clock imposingly positioned at the prow, suggests a main train terminus. However, the true décor concept is more that of a turn of the century Midwestern bank-meets-sheriffs' office meets saloon backroom.
The irregularly shaped space has been creatively worked. Beyond the entrance there's a street café style gallery of tables overlooking the gaping atrium. A chic main dining area opens up behind folding French doors and is set around two sides of the bistro-style bar, with its long row of stools and foot rail for resting your Cuban heels on. Behind is a row of cosy booths with street views and, beyond an impressive faut bank vault door that looks so real you can't help toying with the combination, which leads to a small party-size private dining room lined with mock safety deposit boxes, also with Chongnonsri view.
Dark wood timbered floor and American bank manager style curved-back arm chairs appliquéd with alligator skin complement a strictly monochromatic palate. However, flying saucer lights hang low from the ceiling and there's a minimalist feel to the white marble table tops, dark leather place mats and unpretentious tableware. So it's not a theme joint and the unobtrusive soundtrack is less Morricone more Getz.
As for the culinary concept, the menu breaks down into starters, salads & soups, pastas, surf & turf grills, side orders, burgers & sandwiches and desserts, all of which would be familiar to road-tripping Americans.
So 'how about the steaks?', you ask, the answer to which is, 'they're as good as it gets and at friendlier prices than such quality is generally available for in Bangkok'. For example? US Black Angus striploin 300g at 1,500 baht, served with roasted garlic, baby arugula, tomato chutney and three kinds of coarse sea salt (plain English, Pinot Noir-infused, and habanero Mexican chilli-infused). Add side orders of wonderful cauliflower baked with cheddar cheese garnished with toasted breadcrumbs (150), broccoli with roasted almond butter (150) and olive oil-softened Water Library mashed potatoes (150), and you have the perfect salve for steak cravings at under 2,000 baht. Not bad by local standards - especially if you're taking a date because that would be enough for two.
You might say, 'What! No sauce?'. Well, would you mix Glenmorangie with cola? Slice a corner off this butter-soft steak and dab it lightly with some of that salt. Proceed to mouth and honestly ask yourself if steak ever tasted more exciting?
Just as the décor is thoughtfully conceived and immaculately executed, so the food is selected and prepared by a very switched-on team that includes Haikal Johari, Executive Chef – Water Library, and Sebastian Schäfer, Chef de Cuisine – The Capital.
Culinary passion informs every detail – from the special blend of three types of wood in the charcoal over which the meat is grilled to the process of grilling-resting, grilling-resting and then finishing with an intense flourish creating a serious crust. Steak seasoned with wood smoke: it's the ultimate!
What's more, the choice of cuts gives a whole new meaning to a la carte. Besides US, there are Australian, German, Italian, Canadian and, of course, Japanese varieties, each with their own special qualities. There's even a Thai rib-eye which is also serious steak – 350 g of grass-fed Aged Angus lavished with the same loving care and priced only 980.
But if you insist that only Japanese beef will do for you, relax, and let chef rustle you up 150 grams of Kamichiku Wagyu rib eye at 1,400-2,000 depending on the cut.
Non-beef meat options range pork chops, lamb racks and spring chicken while surfers are well served with fish and seafood options ranging seared Tasmanian salomon/honey mustard cream (650) to Maine Lobster Rockefeller (1,350).
Burgers are made with similar reverence. The Wagyu beef burger (390) is pure beef garnished with a little curry spice from a Massman-infused mayo. Plus salmon, veggie and steak and cheese varieties.
Other items are equally excellent. The prawn cocktail starter offers three whole Andaman sea prawns poached in salty water for sweetness served with a creamy mayonnaise with a kick from burnt peppers and spices (380) and baby rocket. French-creole style Gumbo soup pits lobster with fresh mussels, squid, and prawn with brunoise of root vegetable and larb spices served with crunchy toasted bread (290).
Even the signature complimentary dish of ciabbatta bread herbed with rosemary and thyme served with an original buffalo milk butter blended with yuzo Japanese oranges and garnished with cranberries is a winner.
Along with some other new eateries, The Capital embraces a welcome trend to take desserts seriously again, with six selections, each worthy of dropping by to enjoy with a coffee alone. I can speak for the excellence of the Red Velvet (290) – berry-infused brownie, white chocolate ganache, beetroot puree, yogurt sorbet, cream cheese espuma, and the Banoffes (290), poached banana, salted caramel ice cream, banana cream, roasted peanuts, chocolate biscuit, warm chocolate ganache, freeze-dried bananas. You get the picture. The Capital also makes its own excellent ice creams, notably fresh vanilla, almond and coconut.
If you fancy a beer with all this, you are also in the right place with several craft numbers listed along with their alcohol content, from US Dead Guy Ale (6.5% - 270) to Norwegian Nogne O Wit (4.5% - 690). There are some interesting spirits, cocktails and wines, too.
Evening diners have the added incentive of a complimentary after-dinner digestif of Bourbon whisky infused with lime juice.
It's also worth noting that if you work at Empire Tower they give you a 10% discount.
Just curious? Ease yourself into The Capital with a 3-course set lunch (790) experience offering four choices of each course, tea or coffee.
When you leave, you'll be whistling "a fistful of dollars" or at the very least you'll be wistful for dollars.
THE CAPITAL by Water Library
Empire Tower Tel. 02 286-9548
