Trader Vic's at Anantara Riverside has a strong following around Bangkok.
The Ribs (of which more later) alone explain this quite eloquently.
This isn't just a fun bar with good bands on the side, although it is that. It is a cracking good restaurant with some really eye-catching dishes.
That said the drinks are good and a cocktail, or better still a mocktail, is a civilised way to start a nice meal. Trader Vic's is famous for its Trader Vic's Mai Tai's (260 baht) and its alcohol free equivalent No Tai Mai Tai (260 baht). Both are very refreshing.
Taking your place in the restaurant here is a pleasure. It very much has the feel and class of a silver spoon establishment. Well spread out tables bedecked in crisp white table linen with attentive service and a view over the Chao Praya river show it knows how to do things well.
There are also sofas outside for those who want to enjoy the view and have a bit more privacy.
As for the menu, whereas other bars just seem to serve fats, salts and something fried, there's none of that here. It is a classy establishment serving healthy food.
First off was Ahi Poke. This is tuna served on avocado cubes and well marinated in chili which gives it a bit of a kick. Not too much of a kick and not too little but just enough to get the system and the interest going.
The other twist is the avocado, rather than being soft was firm — a new way of doing things.
However, all this paled into insignificance when the ribs arrived. Simply put the ribs are magnificent and well it's got to be said: The Best Ribs in Bangkok. There it's been said.
Why?
Firstly there is a generous portion even for hungry men fresh from the gym standards. And there is an even a generous portion of the sauce, served on the side despite lashings of it on the ribs.
The sauce is a secret but it is also made in the restaurant which means it is not the standard taste that gets served everywhere else. Maybe it is those sesame seeds floating in it that does it, maybe another ingredient, but the sauce is as good as the ribs, which is saying something.
Then there is the ribs themselves. A large portion is slow cooked in a Chinese oven which means ribs of such softness they literally melt in your mouth.
And they are quality, quality, quality. Not one ounce of fat was tasted by us and the flavour of the meat was rich and full. We wondered if it was something special like a prize Texan steer.
"Many guests ask me if it is pork or beef," said Thanavoot Srilardlao, Chef de Cuisine with a smile.
"But no it is pork and it is wonderful and we will stick by the view that these are the Best Ribs in Bangkok, with others being a pale imitation."
If you don't believe me then try them. Trader Vic's does a small portion as an appetizer. Ribs purists might scoff at the idea of ribs as a starter but it is a great way to get a feel for the Best Ribs in Bangkok.
Nor is it alone. Unlike other establishments that live or die by one dish, Trader Vic's does an impressive range both of dishes and styles.
There is also an emphasis on healthy eating and what used to be called fusion cuisine. Forget the label and concentrate on the taste is probably the best thing to do.
Another dish that we recommend heartily is the snow fish.
That a restaurant on the banks of the Chao Praya has the verve and imagination to serve an Atlantic fish is a sign of its reach. What they do with it only underscores that.
This fish as baked so there is no oil or fat involved and it is then put on a bed of spinach that has a taste and texture that got noticed along with a subtle and nicely lingering miso sauce.
Again the fish just melts in the mouth with a contrasting taste and texture coming from the wontons. Its Asian fusion at its best.
"This dish is a very healthy option and a mixture of everything," said Chef Srilardlao and how right he is. "You can mix the flavour but the taste will be snow fish and miso sauce."
One other thing that can be added to the mix is a nice glass of wine. Trader Vic's has wine gurus on hand to help with recommendations but Chef Srilardlao assures us that the snow fish goes well with any white wine.
No great meal is complete without dessert and there is no shortage at Trader Vic's. Chocolate Fondue sounded so right and it was very good. Serving it in a coconut is very much a symbol of Trader Vic's fusion approach and the side scoop of ice cream was a lovely idea.
Dinner 6.00pm – 11-00pm
TRADER VIC'S ANANTARA RIVERSIDE BANGKOK. Tel. 02 476 0022 Ext. 1438
