Just step off the lift and into the inviting foyer of L'Appart restaurant at the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Hotel, and you are instantly transported to another dimension, where European elegance prevails and Bangkok's hustle-bustle streets seem a lot farther than 32 floors away.
As the name implies, L'Appart occupies what can only be described as a fully functioning re-creation of a swanky Paris apartment. Inspired by the designs of pioneering 19th century French city planner Georges-Eugène Haussmann, this exact rendering remarkably captures the essence of a high-class Parisian flat, right down to the most petite detail: gleaming Oakwood furnishings, burgundy-hued walls and intriguing, antique-look bric-a-brac décor give the stylish dining venue-flat a distinctly Belle Epoque vibe. Charming touches like tables casually strewn with French-classic paperbacks provide a homey, lived-in ambience.
The expansive yet cosy-feeling suite includes a formal dining room, bar, library-lounge and skirting-terrace complete with a stunning, Eiffel-esque city view—perfect for an evening of romantic, candle-lit cocktails-for-two.
Diners may also choose to take their meal in the modern, roomy kitchen with its crimson cabinetry, stainless steel fixtures and black & white chequered floors. The large cook's lair table seats up to ten persons and is set a bit off from the hearth, but close enough to the action so that diners can appreciate the cooking wizardry of L'Appart's highly skilled Thai kitchen staff.
It was here, amid the whirling spatulas and flitting fry pans that this reviewer sampled this enchanted eatery's 4-Course Christmas Eve Set Menu — tongue-flirting procession of gastronomic delights which demonstrated that, like a painter's canvas, the kitchen is truly the realm of the fine artiste.
All principle ingredients are imported to assure the most authentic Gallic flavours possible. However, in keeping with the hotel chain's robust corporate environmental conservation policies, Sofitel endeavours to source many of the supporting ingredients locally in order to reduce its overall carbon footprint.
Getting things off to an appetising start was the Amuse bouche, done here as Parmesan-crusted choux buns with a filling of molten cheeses — Mozzarella, Chedder, Parmesan and Ementhal along with a dash of truffle oil — that awakened the taste buds with its savoury ménage a fromage goodness. Think of them as an inside-out fondue. Though served as a finger food, the enthusiasm with which the creamy-rich béchamel filling escapes when these luscious little buns are bitten into might present a challenge for diners sporting moustaches and/or high-gloss lipstick.
With this reviewer's palate suitable primed, the Starter course was given centre-table. In creating the King crab tartar salad with pickled radish salad, caviar and gazpacho, L'Appart chefs seamlessly blend the widely varying flavours and unconventional textures to create a sensory-stimulating and innovative take on the traditional soup-and-salad. The succulence of the crab is countered with the crunchiness of the pickle and complemented by the caviar's inherent saltiness.
And here's where high-tech and haute cuisine cross paths: a tart, delicate avocado espuma is fashioned by processing the dense fruit through a device similar to gas-charged soda-water decanter, resulting in a light, flavourful foam garnish. The course also includes a fresh gazpacho served in an elegant cylindrical glass flute. The stemless shot glass-like vessel is presented protruding at a stylish angle from a solid block base, betraying the staff's impressive flair for industrial design. Guests may opt to consume the gazpacho directly from its flute, though the house suggests pouring the cold tomato-cucumber-pepper potage over the crab salad, in order to enjoy the full effect of this enticing flavour combination.
The gazpacho flute now empty, activity in the kitchen has begun to intensify. Furrow-browed chefs carefully assemble orders while prep-cooks add finishing touches to outgoing dishes with a concentration normally reserved for surgeons and master watchmakers. Out of this orchestrated chaos emerges the Semi-main Course of Pan seared scallop and tiger prawn, Jerusalem artichoke, roasted cauliflower and chorizo virgin sauce. The scallops and prawns — pleasantly singed just so — could not have been fresher had the meal been consumed at sea, with a tender but firm bite that is impossible to contrive.
Our Main Course of Guinea fowl ballotine, carrot purée, fricassee of chestnut, mushroom, snap pea and dried cherry tomato with herb jus took the meal in an exciting new direction. Essentially a poached meat-roll, the ballotine is made using a whole, de-boned Guinea fowl that has been rendered into a mousse, then wrapped and bathed in hot water. The carrot purée is velvety-smooth, while the snap pea's subtle sweetness blends nicely with the mushrooms' earthy finish.
The fashionably diminutive portions leave one entirely satisfied but not in the least bit full, leaving ample room for the lavish, holiday-seasoned Afters course to come.
Because of the heavy molasses component, traditional gingerbread can be somewhat of an acquired taste for some diners. But any aversions to this time-honoured yuletide confection are quickly disavowed with the arrival of the house-specialty dessert, featuring a Sticky gingerbread pudding with sherry anglaise, red fruit compote and clotted-cream ice cream. This supremely moist and rich caramel sauce-topped creation manages to appease the sweet-tooth without the expected cloying finish. The clotted ice cream is light and smooth, playing a cold, refreshing yin to the pudding's fuller-bodied yang, while the acidity of the berries compote provides a fruity foil to the dish's restrained but clearly evident overall sweetness.
For a truly memorable night before Christmas repast, L'Appart offers this 4-Course Christmas Eve Set Menu at Bt2,800 ++.
SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15. Tel. 02 126 9999 Visit www.sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com/en
