Something to write home about

It's true that there's nothing boastful about Bharani's food, let alone a "wow" factor.

Bharani is now in its third generation of family ownership.

But amid Bangkok's plethora of star-studded restaurants offering world-class cuisine and uber-fancy dining atmospheres, the trend-free food and charming vibe of this 66-year-old eatery stand out.

My first memory of Bharani dates back to the 70s, when I regularly visited the restaurant with my family. Situated near the Asoke intersection on Sukhumvit Road, it was run by a graceful old woman. Among our favourite dishes then was khao phad nuea khem. The tasty salted beef fried rice, dappled with bird's eye chillies, is a dish that will always be nostalgic to me.

Bharani's original venue was closed in 2005. Over the following years, new outlets were quietly opened at a few locations, yet the name Bharani had slipped out of my mind.

Last week I had an opportunity to revisit Bharani for the first time in many years.

Stepping inside the small eatery, which occupies a two-unit shophouse in Sukhumvit Soi 23, I was greeted by the homely feel of the old days in the form of family heirlooms and collectibles.

Bharani first opened in 1949 and is now in its third-generation of family ownership, its culinary calling card being homestyle fare prepared according to the family's original recipes. The kitchen is headed by a 73-year-old woman for whom cooking is a passion and legacy.

Bharani's cuisine is reminiscent of what was typically served on the dining tables of middle-class Thai families during the 50s and 70s. The menu features mostly classic Thai dishes with some Western favourites.

Among the restaurant's legendary items are Mexican beef taco (220 baht), which has for decades been a staple at Bharani, featuring home-made corn tortilla chips (deep-fried on a daily basis) topped with seasoned minced beef, chopped iceberg lettuce and grated cheddar cheese. The scrumptious treat was complemented by smoky, house-made salsa, served on the side.

Another time-honoured dish worth ordering is the ox tongue stew (240 baht). Accompanied by parsley-sprinkled garlic bread, supple slices of slow-cooked ox tongue came bathed in a rather sweet, orange gravy with crunchy green beans and soft potatoes. It proved heavenly.

I couldn't miss having my old favourite — khao phad nuea khem (120 baht). Firm-grained rice — the result of meticulous sourcing and time-consumptive preparation — came seasoned with deep-fried, sun-dried morsels of salted beef, with chopped chillies lending the dish an enlivening finish.

From the 60-item menu, we passed the likes of tom yum goong, French bouillabaisse, classic fried chicken, home-made Vienna sausages and pork chop.

Instead we sampled Bharani's traditional —and delicious — rendering of pad Thai with river king prawns (250 baht).

Equally delightful was the veal red curry (175 baht). Served with pan-fried roti, the dish is prepared with house-made curry paste, freshly squeezed coconut milk and morsels of marbled beef, promising to satisfy keen connoisseurs.

We also sampled the pan-fried salted ox tongue (195 baht), a dish recently added to the menu but one which has long been the family's favourite treat. Served on a round, wooden cutting board were thick slices of twice-cooked (braised, then pan-fried) marinated ox tongue that were tender, flavoursome and addictive. It was complemented by house-preserved cucumber, carrots and cauliflower — some of the most enjoyable pickled vegetables I've ever eaten.

The restaurant also offers a selection of guay tiew ruea, or Thai-style noodle soup with brown broth. It is made with prime-grade beef (pork is also available) and proved delectable.

From a decent selection of desserts, home-made coconut milk ice cream with the works (119 baht) nicely wrapped up our meal. The ice cream came with the traditional garnish of roasted peanuts, candied yams and soft bread cubes.

A veteran pianist, who plays the family's vintage piano, performs on Fridays and Saturdays, from 7pm to 9pm.