Northern soul

Northern soul

Cooking authentic Lanna cuisine is more rewarding when you understand the culture that produced it

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Northern soul
Lanna food: Khao soi.

Thai cookbooks have evolved over the years. The first one that we know about, published in 1908, was written by Thanphuying Plien Phaasakonwong, and was called Mae Khrua Hua Paa (archaic Thai for “The Cook”). Besides being a skilled cook, Thanphuying Plien was an avid collector of recipes from various sources. In her book she gave measurements, a practice that was considered modern because cooks had previously relied on personal expertise in deciding how much of a given ingredient was to be used, rather than systemised measurements.

Comprehensive: 'Ocha Haeng Lanna'.

Other cookbooks followed, among them Tamra Khaao Waan (Recipes for Savoury and Sweet Dishes) by L Phetrarat, published in 1934. The writer explains that it is a collection of recipes from various sources. But to compile such a selection, it was as important to be a good researcher as a talented cook.

Another old Thai cookbook, and one of the very best of them, is called Tamrap Saai Yaowapha. It was originally printed to be distributed at the funeral of MC Yaovabha Bongsanid, and then reprinted for sale in 1939. This volume covers a comprehensive and deep knowledge of the science of food, with a strikingly extensive list of plants from Thailand’s different regions used in cooking, including many that are no longer to be found in markets. But what makes the book especially important is that it gathers recipes from outstanding cooks of the era, most of whom were members of the Thai nobility.

These three examples show that the authors behind them were genuinely skilled cooks, women who prepared food in families that passed down kitchen techniques and recipes through the generations. They have done the world of cuisine a great kindness by setting high standards for Thai kitchen artistry that continue to be respected by serious cooks. A new cookbook appeared recently that deserves to join the list on the basis of its high quality. Called Ocha Haeng Lanna, it provides a reliable way to discover the delicious food of Thailand’s North, once the Kingdom of Lanna. Compiled by Sirirak Bangsoot and Phonwat Aarom and published by the Saeng Daed Press, it brings together a diverse collection of Northern Thai recipes.

Both of the authors are young and both are from the North. They said it was a happy experience to return to the North and travel throughout the region, where they met more that 70 older people who were expert cooks. These artists, they said, are jewels of the Northern cooking tradition, and although their experiences have been very different, all led to the same result of being able to create culinary works of art for their children and grandchildren, and for others who appreciate these dishes. All considered it was important that the recipes should not be cut or changed.

But before getting to the recipes themselves it is important to look at the society, environment and tastes of the region’s people — a subject that the writers discuss in detail. One example is their discussion of a minced meat dish called laab, a food we see or hear about or eat so often these days that is considered very ordinary. In the past, however, getting to eat it was no simple thing, because it was made from beef, water buffalo or pork, all large animals. It had to be a special occasion, or a meal offered by a person with high social status, for it to be prepared.

Northern food has a character of its own. Saltiness is prominent in its taste, with spiciness more muted and sweetness coming from vegetables. It is eaten in a characteristic way, too. Soupy, liquid dishes are eaten with sticky rice carefully so that hands do not get messy and nothing spills on the toke — the raised tray upon which Northern meals are traditionally served. These aspects of Northern-style eating are all part of the regional culture, and comprise a body of knowledge from sources much bigger than any classroom.

The recipes included in the new cookbook are divided into categories that include seasonal dishes — those associated with summer, the rainy season and the cool season — and ethnic specialities such as Thai Yai and Burmese dishes. Each recipe includes an explanation of its background.

These texts also clear up misconceptions. For example, many people mistakenly equate the Northern dish called kaeng kradaang with the Chinese one known as khaa muu yen (chilled pork hock), which is well known in the Central Region. The Chinese dish consists of pork leg that has been stewed with aromatic Chinese phalo spices, then chilled until the pork fat becomes extremely cold.

Kaeng kradaang is different. The pork leg is slow-cooked in salty-sweet broth until the meat is tender enough to cut with a fork. When the weather in the North becomes cold, the liquid forms a gel. The Chiang Rai version of kaeng kradaang is red in colour because the seasoning mixture includes dried chillies.

Ocha Haeng Lanna isn’t just a reliable source of information on Northern food that sets the record straight in cases like this. It also offers an inviting challenge to any cook who wants to venture into the territory of authentic Lanna cuisine equipped with a knowledge of the culture that produced it. Those who take it up will come away with even greater respect for the depth and diversity of our country’s culinary culture. n

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