Incredible Indian fun dining

Incredible Indian fun dining

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Incredible Indian fun dining

If only India itself was as laid back as Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology, the not six months’ old iteration of contemporary sub-continental hospitality at 5th floor Frazer Suites (Sukhumvit Soi 11 where it dog-legs towards Soi 3).

But at least we have this smooth, stylish and safely chaperoned hologram of modern, monied Delhi chic to enjoy. Besides being a beautiful space, the food and drink is uber and although the word “royal” prefixes much, it’s anything but starchy, pressing its case for “fun” over “fine” dining.

While the myriad marinates and tandoor ovens unapologetically date back generations, the co-starring Indian-inspired cocktails are all original creations of maestro mixologist Joseph Boroski.

Wai Soho Hospitality for the radiant design fusing fecund northeast Indian foothills, from which the cuisine heralds, with telling infusions of  industrial hip and India insights seen through artist and humorist lenses. A long window wall facing a cool pool appends an al fresco scenario.

On entering the expansive, designer-rustic space, the long light-reflecting bar attended by saffron-suited mixologists grabs attention first. Then the diagonally-facing glass-fronted theatre kitchen framing three shiny copper-clad clay tandoori ovens and bustling toke-lite chefs. More intriguing details spill into focus – Indian incantation copper vessels, natural cotton ceiling-mounted punka fans, India dolce vita still-life images, a sit-up-and-beg bicycle, a tiffin (tin lunch box) art installation, a rack of regularly chopped logs, and a “spice library” channelling an antique ayurvedic apothecary shop.

Spices, after all, besides the ovens, are what Charcoal is all about, and savvy Executive Chef Deepanker Khosla “plays” with around 25. Recipes mainly date back 450-800 years to the nawabs, the picky-eater potentates of South Asian princely states, he explains.

Think insanely succulent lamb, chicken, seafood and veggie tandoori kababs prepared  northwest frontier or aromatic aristocratic Mughlai style, char-grilled to smoky succulence over glowing embers.

Seafood tandoors range white pomfret, mildly spiced lobster and juicy Jhingha prawns marinated in garam masala, turmeric, lime and yoghurt. New Zealand lamb chops are softened overnight in chilli, cumin, malt vinegar, ginger and garlic. Murgh Malai Kabab is the creamiest of the white chicken tikkas.

Dum Biryanis – meat, veggies and talon-long pilao rice sealed in clay pots with dough and simmered slow – are another specialty. With the saffron dialled down to highlight the subtler spices, the buttery spring chicken number served with spiced raita is regal indeed.

As is dal charcoal, smoky, slow-cooked black lentils, tomato, ginger and garlic best enjoyed with outstanding breads, perhaps the crispy pudina parantha drizzled with dried mint or puffy turrah naan. Not to mention galauti, spiced lamb mince patties, created for a toothless nawab, and a rare fusion tandoori intrusion: mildly spiced charcoal scallops with mango sauce and mash.

Recommended desserts – Indian meals should never end without one –  range classic Gulab Jamun reduced milk dumplings stuffed with pistachio and cardamom, doused in honey syrup, and delectably creamy almost floral Phirni, ground basmati rice blended with milk and cardamom, sprinkled with almond and pistachio.

Perfectly paired cocktails include New Delhi Duty Free, muddling Bacardi, mango, chilli, honey and lime, quirkily served in a duty free bag complete with Indian passport.

When you go to powder your nose, check out the reproduction notices and congested street scene soundtrack confessing to how alarming actual India can be. But before departing, cruise by Prince Paan, for a beetle-leaf wrapped original taste of the India that excels.

Open evenings only from 6pm till midnight (last kitchen orders: 11 pm).

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