Nothing sounds elaborate nor tempting when you hear the restaurant name District Grill Room & Bar. However, my first dinner visit to this steakhouse, located at the Mariott Bangkok Sukhumvit Hotel — somewhere I have driven past almost everyday since it opened two years ago — proved to me once again that culinary gems are often overlooked.
It was a busy Friday evening when we arrived at the restaurant. Like any of the city's cosmopolitan eating joints, the 88-seater was half-occupied with corporate execs loosening up after work and gourmands eager for some red-meat indulgence.
In terms of setting, the warmly lit restaurant was designed with sophistication, housing a refined steakhouse feel. Each of the dining sections are set out to cater to the guests' different gastronomic moods, with a main dining area equipped with a bar and bustling view of the blazing kitchen engulfed by a glass façade. The dynamic front zone is separated from a quieter back zone, decked out to recall a Prohibition Era vibe, with a stylish wooden panel displaying liquor.
A meal at the District starts with a complementary offering of amuse-bouche. That evening, the chef had prepared goat cheese marshmallows with yuzu zest, which truly impressed all four of the discerning foodies at our table.
Choosing from a nice selection of appetisers, we went for the best-selling Seared Wild Hokkaido Scallops (690 baht). Three sizeable, hand-caught scallops, browned perfectly to reveal the sweet and supple meat, arrived with some nicely soft green peas, light and crispy roasted potato cubes, Spanish bacon cubes and white wine cream sauce.
These wonderful scallops were followed by the King Crab Cake (690 baht), also popular. A large golden piece of crab cake, showcasing a breaded exterior and scrumptiously rich centre, was well complemented some radish coleslaw and a leafy green salad dressed with grain mustard sauce. The dish carried an unexpected yet pleasant fiery zest, brought about by bird's eye chillies, marking one of many elements that proved the chef's culinary dexterity.
It may sound slightly clichéd to say that a steak meal would be incomplete without a Caesar salad. However, saying it here would seem more rational than at most other places in town.
The District Caesar salad (420 baht), comprised of chilled romaine lettuce, freshly chopped and tossed before our eyes, a generous heap of thick dressing, crispy bacon and Parmesan cheese, deserves the label of "not-to-be-missed".
Currently the restaurant also offers a special promotion, which will end on June 30, featuring organic, grass-fed beef from Harvey Beef, one of Australia's most respected Angus beef producers. From the promotional menu, pot-braised Angus short ribs with mashed potatoes, peas and red wine sauce (1,180 baht) proved to be another dish that must be ordered. The beef was seasoned ever so slightly in order to maintain its natural taste, not overpowered by the rich gravy. In terms of texture, it was slow-cooked to reach just the right tenderness. The short rib was complemented perfectly by the well-blanched legumes and firmly welcomed by the thick and velvety mashed potatoes reminiscent of the world-famous Joel Robuchon-style pomme purée.
Another option to guarantee utmost gastronomic pleasure is the Pan-roasted Angus Tenderloin (1,790 baht). Ideal for steak fans in the mood for homestyle culinary comfort, the dish is offered on a large soup plate with heaps of mashed potatoes, carrots and peas. The lean yet succulent character of the tenderloin was enriched in both taste and texture by melt-in-the-mouth morsels of slow-cooked fatty briskets and caramelised shallots that stippled the gravy.
The grill room is another upscale establishment that has jumped on the burger bandwagon. One of the restaurant's bestsellers is its flame-broiled burger. Currently, diners can choose between the regular grain-fed Wagyu burger and the Angus beef chuck burger (both 690 baht). All burgers are smoke-grilled and come with double-smoked cheddar cheese, grilled onion and cassava chips. The Angus burger that we had appeared out of a smoky mist, served on a glass-covered plate. As it's made with lean beef chuck, the plump patty offered a rather powerful yet not juice-dripping mouthfeel. Each bite into this wholesome burger was enhanced by the thick, partially melted slice of cheese. The cassava chips lent a mildly sweet crunch to the fare.
The dessert selection wasn't extensive however there was enough to cater to different cravings.
I loved the traditional apple pie with vanilla ice cream (250 baht). The pie's buttery crust and crumble proved delicious. The warm apple filling was soft and fragrant and the salty caramel sauce simply heavenly.
Fans of cheesecake will be pleased to know they can finish off a remarkable dinner here with the Cheesecake of the Day (250 baht), readily available from the dessert stand.
The restaurant also has its own wine cellar, housing more than 200 labels from Old and New Worlds.
There's a live band performing jazz and blues music on Fridays and Saturday, from 8pm onwards. The service was pleasant.
The warmly lit restaurant is designed with sophistication to provide a refined steakhouse feel.
Seared wild Hokkaido scallops with green peas, Spanish bacon and white wine sauce.
Pot-braised Angus short rib with mashed potatoes, peas and red wine sauce.
Pan-roasted Angus tenderloin steak.
Angus beef chuck burger with double-smoked cheddar cheese and cassava chips.
