Opened five months ago on the leafy Sarasin Road, Indicus Bistro fittingly derives its name from a species of plant. The interior of the three-storey restaurant is going for a vintage "lived-in" look that reminds us of a lake house. When narrow restaurants expand vertically, you sometimes get a first floor that's a design wonderland and upper floors that resemble an unfinished school art project. But each of this cosy bistro's three floors has its own charm and purpose. Sit on the ground level and you'll be close to the dessert counter — not to mention the comfy and photogenic turquoise sofa and the plethora of intricate decorations worthy of your admiration. But if you want to dwell a bit longer in exclusivity, the upper floors are the place to be. On the subtly botanical-themed second floor is a large wooden dining table that overlooks Sarasin Road and Lumpini Park. Head up another floor for the ultimate chill-out spot, decked out with homey furniture, a gorgeous bar and balcony seating.
Indicus Bistro
Asian Western fusion
231/16 Sarasin Road, Lumpini
Daily, 11am-midnight
02-651-9599
Fb.com/indicusbistro
The menu
The restaurant puts a signature spin on several classic dishes such as chicken wings and salad. Aroma alone gives away the Asian identity of the Indicus chicken wings (B180), which are lathered in spices and herbs. Following the same pattern, the Indicus salad (B180) is an impressively fragrant starter. Essentially chicken curry atop crisp, fresh vegetables, it's a simple yet very effective idea.
When it comes to main dishes, you can opt for local comforts or Western classics. The medium-sized Thin crust pizzas (B350++) at Indicus are nothing to rave about and in our opinion a bit pricey.
You'll find the pasta selection (B180++) a bit more interesting. Poseidon (B480) turned out to be quite an appropriate name for the intimidating seafood pasta dish. Once you've gotten over the huge prawn and octopus legs sticking out at you, look closer and you'll notice that the sauce contains sea urchin. This might be too much of the ocean for some, but seafood lovers will appreciate the dedication to flavour infusion.
We obviously couldn't leave without trying the Grass-fed tenderloin steak with foie gras (B730) — the most expensive dish on the menu. The Australian tenderloin was easy to cut, not oily in the least and mild enough to blend rather than compete with the flavours of the sauce and foie gras. The meat sits on a generous mound of sautéed spinach and is complemented by potato gratin.
There are four dessert choices, including the intriguing Lemongrass crème brulee (B145), but we felt the sweets fell a little flat and weren't a necessary ending to a decent meal.
Insider tip
The owner confidently claims to offer the best prices on your favourite wines, so oenophiles should make their presence known. The restaurant also serves Lunch sets (B129++) paired with herbal tea. Check Indicus Bistro's Facebook page to stay updated, as the set menu changes every two weeks. Parking is very limited, so it's better to use public transport.
Value & verdict
Head to Indicus Bistro if you want to catch up with friends but dread the high-class mall scene and all its fuss. After dinner, you can whip out Cards Against Humanity and play a full game without annoying anyone.
