Nomads, jet-setters, backpackers and anyone else who’s ever written, “Travelling is one of my biggest passions” on their CVs (yes, guilty as charged) have one thing in common. We have our once-in-a-lifetime trip perfectly planned, and can probably recite the whole itinerary and list of attractions backwards, if need be. Whether it’s horseback riding along the Silk Road, driving the US coast-to-coast, rafting down the Mekong River or, in my case, sailing across the Mediterranean Sea and hummus tasting. This, regardless of the fact that my knot-tying knowledge doesn’t exceed those on my trainers. But hey, we all have dreams.
Fortunately, food has become a gateway to faraway destinations — it’s what an hors d’oeuvre is to a main course. Food gives us a glimpse of what’s in store for the real deal — that may or may not be upwards of 5,000km away.
After undergoing a US$250,000 (8.8 million baht) refurbishment, Metzo’s at Outrigger Laguna Phuket Beach Resort has finally reopened. Equipped with a new casual vibe, a dashing interior and the multitalented chef Mustapha, whose impressive resume includes a stint cooking for Saudi royalty and hosting his own TV show in Bahrain. I was intrigued, for the hotel could have replaced the restaurant with a typical Italian outlet that would have been bound to do well. But it wasn’t going to settle for the ordinary and instead has chosen to bring Mediterranean and Levantine cuisine back to life, giving it the long overdue spotlight.
A quick glance at the menu and I was smitten with the array of choices ready to transport my taste buds to countries such as Spain, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Lebanon and Morocco. The small plates and salad options are perfect for sharing, while main courses such as chargrills and shawarma are served in generous portions.
I can’t think of a better way to have embarked on my epicurean journey than with hummus, served with warm, house-made pita bread. It was a hit with my savoury palate, with added tang from lemon juice. Fans of Spanish dishes may be familiar with the sound of shrimp sautéed in olive oil, but I kid you not, Metzo’s Gambas al ajillo, scores top marks and is truly unmissable. The shrimp is flawless, while the mirepoix of garlic, olive oil and parsley gives it an aromatic and flavourful lift. If you’re looking for a light salad, go for the tabbouleh. Made with fresh parsley, tomatoes, onions, lemon juice and Lebanese spices, it’s fresh, zesty and seriously healthy.
For the main course, I had the Shish kebab. Despite its ubiquitous association with being one of the best forms of hangover prevention (especially if you’ve ended your night around Nana), the dish is a rather spectacular example of where ingredient quality takes centre stage. Three skewers of 120-day grain-fed Australian beef tenderloin was tender and juicy, while saffron rice and grilled vegetables provided the ideal accompaniment.
The Roasted chicken pita is also worth raving about, and if you’re one with a big appetite, this dish is bound to keep you full until the next day. It is roasted in traditional Levantine fashion, in a shawarma machine, giving it a wonderful smokiness. Wrap the chicken in the pita with the pickles and splash on some garlic sauce — that, my friends, is how I came to forget about Nando’s and Piri-Piri Flaming Chicken.
Don’t skip dessert, because you’ll miss out on the fabulous Baklava. The intricately layered filo pastry is packed with finely chopped pistachios and almonds, and topped with vanilla ice cream for that extra “oomph”.
A quick chat with Mustapha gave me insight into Mediterranean and Levantine cuisine. As a chef with Greek and Lebanese heritage, his focus is on bringing to the table fresh, bold flavours. He emphasised the importance of quality and consistency of ingredients. Metzo’s couldn’t have asked for a better location than the South of Thailand, for its geography means having access to an abundance of fresh seafood, year-round. Although some items, such as beef, lamb and olive oil are imported, the restaurant tries to use as much local produce as possible. Mustapha also mentioned that his secret sauces are made from recipes passed down to him by his grandmother, in many ways reflecting his “from heart to bowl” philosophy. By cooking from your heart, he believes, you’ll be able to translate or transfer your passion into the smiles and happiness of your diners.
When we travel south, Mediterranean and Levantine food isn’t usually on our “must-eat” lists. But Metzo’s has changed that for me, as I’m sure it will for many other diners. Now I can’t imagine skipping a meal of hummus and shish kebabs the next time I’m in Phuket.
Metzo’s Bistro and Bar is located at Outrigger Laguna Phuket Beach Resort, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, Phuket.
Visit www.outriggerthailand.com/laguna-phuket-beach-resort or call 076-360-600.
