Flavours of the north

Flavours of the north

Hokkaido Tsubohachi showcases the island's best

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

In the modern-day gastronomic arena, the more popular a culinary genre is, the quicker consumers tend to get numbed by the relentless opening of establishments -- originals and wannabes -- offering such in-vogue fare.  

The homely Hokkaido-styled dining room.

Over the past several years, the nonstop mushrooming of Japanese restaurants in Bangkok made me, a food journalist and a Japanese food fan, feel satiated to the point that an invitation to a new eatery is like going on a date with a dull guy.

Tsubohachi boasts more than 300 outlets in Japan and four in Bangkok. Meanwhile, the cuisine is known to centre around casual meals and bar snacks -- typical of an izakaya. 

However, a recent dinner at its latest branch, Hokkaido Tsubohachi in Sukhumvit 33 was more than just acceptable for that it featured homestyle wintry fare that's hardly available in Bangkok.   

The menu is extensive, comprising dishes prepared with aquatic harvests from Hokkaido's ice-cold waters, as well as the region's highly-treasured dairy products. 

One of the most memorable dishes that made me crave a return is the hokkai kamameshi (349 baht).

The kamameshi rice casserole to be cooked at the table.

A typical hotpot of assorted seafood, namely taraba crab leg meat, Hokkaido scallops and salmon, together with Japanese short-grain rice, shimeji mushrooms, mizuna and nori seaweed, all boiled in dashi (dried fish broth) flavoured with mirin. When fully cooked, the dish turned into a scrumptious rice casserole that is fulfilling and taste-buds pleasing. The excellent seafood quality complemented the sweet, gummy rice.       

Many other options of kamameshi rice casseroles such as chicken and vegetable, to be cooked at the table, are also available.

Those looking for real nabe (hot pot) comfort are also promised high contentment. From a decent-sized collection, we had ishikari nabe (199 baht), featuring winter season hotpot of tofu, salmon, cabbage, carrot, baby corn, radish and green onions, and were truly pleased.

Potato mentaiko yaki (139 baht) was a piping hot, cheesy dish that shouldn't be missed. Served on a sizzling metal pan were flat-cut potato wedges topped with mozzarella cheese and spicy cod roe baked until they form a crusty, slightly brown exterior. Enhancing the firm potato was a cheesy flavour, accompanied by the springy texture of mozzarella and fiery briny touch of the mentaiko.   

Should you look for light side dishes, I recommend trying the okonomiyaki-style ika tempura (149 baht). Battered and deep-fried squid tentacles, which were meaty and supple, are laced in a mayonnaise and sweet Worcestershire glaze, topped with bonito flakes. Truly addictive.

Now is the season for kegani (hairy crab) in Japan. Thus keen connoisseurs shouldn't pass the chance to partake in the variety of hairy crab dishes offered here.    

The kegani sugatamori with miso soup (899 baht) showcased the delicate crabmeat and its sumptuous, briny roe in bubbling miso soup. Unexpectedly I found some of the best sashimi in town on offer here.

The modestly-priced maguro (tuna) sashimi (199 baht) exhibited a firm, supple texture and naturally sweet taste that easily translated into super fresh quality. 

As an izakaya place, it has a collection of yakitori and other grilled items, which can easily be missed.   Our family dinner finished off with roll de matcha (119 baht), a house dessert of a paper-thin, green tea crepe rolled with soft cream, red bean paste and glutenous rice flour cake, dressed with burnt syrup.  

The restaurant has several private rooms. They tend to be booked by Japanese working expats after a long day of work. Service by a team of efficient staff was enjoyable.

The potato mentaiko yaki with mozzarella cheese and spicy cod roe.

The excellent-quality maguro sashimi.

The kegani sugatamori with miso soup.

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