Obscure objects of desire | Bangkok Post: lifestyle

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Obscure objects of desire

Family eatery highlights hearty Hakka fare from southern China

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If there is such a thing as a culinary endangered species, a type of dining establishment that occupies the same doomed territory as the Asian golden cat, the bumblebee bat and the Javan rhino, it is probably the small, informal restaurant, owned and operated by the same family for many years, where exceptional food is prepared using personal recipes that have been polished to perfection over time. 

Freshwater prawns fried with chai po condiment.

Bangkok used to be full of these places, and some have managed to hold the fort even as the mainstream Thai dining scene, egged on by the tourism industry, off-target articles in the foreign travel press, and our general national preference for style over substance, has sometimes careened off into gruesome fusion experiments, miscalculated elegance (wine with the curry, etc), and worse.

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