Chef Kongwuth "Kong" Chaiwongkachon graduated with a Grand Diploma from Le Corden Bleu Dusit and is a notable name in the culinary scene. He first came into our radar as the chef of Fire & Dine at Asiatique, where he created a number of delicious fusion dishes. Later, while working as the head chef of Japanese restaurant Ren at Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, he won over Iron Chef Japan in Thailand's Iron Chef competition. He has recently embarked on his biggest challenge yet by opening his own restaurant, Locus Native Food Lab in Chiang Rai. Surrounded by nature, the restaurant serves dinner by reservation only, with no more than 20 seats per night, to make the experience special to both him and his diners. We chatted with him about his culinary journey so far.
When did you decide to open your own restaurant?
As a child I always thought about opening my own restaurant. One day, I had a chance to visit a village in Chiang Rai and meet the hilltribe people. I observed how their cooking practices were closely associated with nature and that gave me the answer to my purpose. I always wondered about one's purpose in life. There, I realised that my duty is to communicate about the importance of nature to man, especially with regards to food. I wish to offer something more simple -- food made of local ingredients -- and preserve the local ways of cooking and the use of ingredients.
What's the difference between being a head chef for someone else and running your own place?
When I worked for someone else's restaurant, I still gave my full effort as if it were my own. But when it's your own, the biggest difference is freedom. I don't have to ask anyone what to do next. As a person with a constant flow of ideas, I like to do things as I go. I can now think, test, and be myself while keeping it fresh all the time.
Why did you choose to open a restaurant in Chiang Rai?
First of all, my wife is from Chiang Rai. Secondly, Chiang Rai has abundant natural resources. And that's really important for me. For instance, our restaurant roof is made out of cogon grass which can endure the rain and heat. But nowadays, people don't grow them anymore and many have never seen them. Some asked me why I wouldn't open a restaurant in Bangkok, as the ingredients found here can be transported there. But, I think vegetables and meat go through changes when they arrive in new atmospheres. It doesn't feel right to me. If I had wanted to open in Bangkok, I'd have to use the resources available in Bangkok.
You are very particular when it comes to food. What is your "food philosophy"?
I compare myself to a factory which absorbs and make use of the resources around me to create an output. What I want to create is a new value -- that Thai native produce can be very cool in its own way. The younger generation is forgetting this point, allowing the use of our native produce to slowly disappear. Also, I aim to communicate with my customers, not just to serve them food. I present the dishes one by one and go into the details of how they are made. So, both sides can be on the same page.
What are some of your recommended dishes?
It's hard for me to say because I don't even have a fixed menu. It changes each month. So, what I recommend is the restaurant itself, as it's everything a restaurant can be. And what I make for my customers is the best there is to give. I personally like the main course from last month -- Charcoal grilled river cat fish with four-spice sauce -- a local Thai dish that's really easy to make. It's served with special jasmine rice that I call "farmer's breath". This local rice will be smoked. But the aroma only lasts for a short moment, so preparation and presentation is timed perfectly.
What advice would you give to those aspiring to be a chef?
It all starts with just doing it. You do it or you don't. If you've done it and you've reached your limit, then stop and take another path. If you go on, I believe you'll reach the point where you discover the meaning of your pursuit. I believe those who question will find the answer.
What would you like to say to your fans and followers?
Please come visit and reserve ahead of time because our restaurant has limited seating. I'll be especially happy to talk with you beforehand to create a mutual understanding. And when you come to dine here, you can get the most out of it. I hope to pass on something to you guys and learn from you in return.
Locus Native Food Lab serves 10-course meal priced at B950 per person for food only from 5-10pm. For more info and to reserve your seat, please check out www.fb.com/locusnativefoodlab or call 086-881-7299.
