Truly, madly, thorny

As if the Internet could also send out the tempting durian fragrance, pictures of the voluptuous yellow-flesh fruit, flame-grilled to exhibit a slightly charred exterior, have recently created an online gastronomic craze.

There's no doubt that the grilled durian is trending. The recipe -- nothing more elaborate than slow-roasting the medium-ripe fruit on an open fire -- is said to have originated in Malaysia.

And thanks to a viral spread on social media, fruit vendors in Thailand, too, are starting to offer durian hot off the grill.

In Phitsanulok province, durian aficionados can be spotted queuing up to place orders for the chargrilled mon thong at a popular local durian stall. The price is 250 baht per kilogramme (compared to 120 baht for its uncooked counterpart). Notwithstanding the 45-minute roasting time, the shop's pre-order list is so long that customers need to spare at least two days for their order to be picked up. Bangkok, too, is now boasting its first outlet of the charred durian. More are expected to emerge very soon in the capital city.

As the year's harvesting period of durian has begun its end (typically it runs from the beginning of April until mid June), some food authorities have forecast that barbecued fresh durian will be the absolute must-have over the next season.

Still, there are many other ways -- some exceptionally awe-inspiring -- that gluttons can enjoy the king of fruits.

A durian vendor in Phitsanulok with his newly launched best-seller: grilled durian. Photo: Wachirawit Songput

Among them is durian ice cream.

Despite its long-established popularity in the local food scene, you can simply forget the plain-looking, pale-yellow scoops of durian ice cream, as the icy treat is now available in an unimaginable form and shape, looking exactly like the real thorny fruit.

A brainchild of Icedea, a leading innovator of swanky, design-centric ice cream, the delicacy mimics a cut-open durian with the pulp and seed underneath a thorn-covered hulk -- all made with prime-quality, house-made ice cream.

At its parlour located at Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre, a long queue of customers wishing to partake of the durian ice cream is now a common sight.

Icedea founder and ice-cream designer Prima Chakrabandhu Na Ayudhya said, "We came up with the idea initially to cater to Asian tourists, especially those from China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Malaysia. Over the years, they've kept coming to our store, asking whether we have durian ice cream on offer."

Prima explained that it took months to develop such a desired outcome.

"There are many tiny details to be considered, from the presentation and consistency of taste to the capability of the production.

"However, since we launched the durian ice cream on June 17, the product has been phenomenally received by Thais. Our brand has now enjoyed a new group of clients -- the local elders," she said.

Icedea's durian ice cream is meticulously crafted (mostly by hand) and available in limited quantities. Although each customer is allowed to purchase only one pack of the durian ice cream per visit, the delicacy is usually sold out within a few hours of the store opening.

Also changing the landscape of local snacking are the new generation of durian treats.

Forget those run-of-the-mill preserved durian paste and durian chips. Now you have durian macaroons at Dhara Dhevi Cake Shop; durian cheesecake at Montien Hotel Bakery; white chocolate durian cake at Rosemary by Madame Tuang and Scoma's Bakery; and durian cookies, durian meringue and durian mousse at Barn House restaurant.

Durian macaroons by Dhara Dhevi. Photo © THE DHARA DHEVI CHIANG MAI

Dhara Dhevi Cake Shop is the country's leader in offering French macaroons with a Thai touch. Its green-hued durian macaroons are among the summer highlights.

"We produce durian macaroons every durian season. They carry the genuine rich taste and aroma of durian, and will sure delight avid durian fans," said the cake shop's manager, adding that this year the durian macaroons will be on offer until August.

Should you be in the mood for the piping-hot durian treats, you might want to check out durian salabao, featuring adorably-looking steamed Chinese-style bun with fresh durian purée filling at Baan Phadthai on Mahanop Road.

Or try durian pizza at PJ Pizza, prepared with fresh durian pulps, durian cream sauce and mozzarella cheese on pizza bread

"Customers feedback has been incredible since we began to offer durian pizza on our menu three months ago," said Ronnapop Thaotho, owner of the 13-year-old pizza joint based in Udon Thani.

"It's an exciting new snack for Thais, while Chinese tourists seemingly can't live without it.

"We also have takeaway outlets all over the country, especially at tourist spots. Still, we can barely fulfil the great demand," he said.

On the savoury side, massaman durian is among the seasonal highlights at some local restaurants.

The 53-year-old Thai restaurant Chanthon Potchana in Chanthaburi province is the country's pioneer in crafting the much-treasured dish, thanks to the vicinity's abundance of the fruit.

The thick massaman curry features cream-coloured chunks of partially ripe durian, a smart substitution for potatoes, that yield a firm texture and mildly sweet taste but without any odour.

"This is a new culinary frontier for durian enjoyment. It offers another gastronomic option for durian lovers, while allowing typical durian-shunners a less-intimidating way to eat the fruit," said Chanthon Potchana's owner Ukrit Wongthongsalee.

There are also other durian-centric dishes at Chanthon, including durian som tam and durian soup (the latter available soon).

Agriculturists may have been concerned for the diminution of durian diversity in Thailand, because the cultivation of ancient native species (such as Chanee, Ee Luang and Kob Mae Thao) are now replaced by a handful of commercial varieties (Mon Thong, in particular) to cater only to modern-day consumers' and foreigners' preference.

But thanks to our deep love of durian and the profound culinary creativity of the Thais, the local appreciation of the king of fruits is promised to always endure.