The morning breeze was cool on our faces as we cruised past a gleaming mosque. Traffic was light and the town was quiet and peaceful, except around the fresh market occupied by women in hijab. Local shops selling bak kut teh and dim sum were opening their doors. It was a typical, lazy Sunday morning in Yala -- known to the rest of Thailand as the land of insurgency and unrest.
When Yala is in the news, it's mostly bad. In March 2012, two car bombs killed 11 and injured 127. The same year, an explosion in Raman district killed five police officers. A deputy governor was assassinated in 2013. In touristy Betong, a car bomb killed three in 2014. Last week, insurgents ambushed an officer's pickup and killed three officials. The list goes on and on.
Men in uniform keep Yala safe.
The thought of going to Yala -- or to any of the three southernmost provinces -- can splash a ripple of fear among travellers. So, upon an invitation by the provincial public relations department to go on a four-day trip to attend Yala's annual fruit festival, a few of us hesitated. Our perception of the province was negative and probably reflects the sentiment of many unfamiliar with the Deep South.
While violence and unrest cannot be discounted, our perception gradually softened the more time we spent in the province. At first glance, Yala felt just like any other Thai province -- with more mosques than usual. There were signs in Thai, English, Arabic and Chinese along the roads. Our van encountered army bunkers and police checkpoints periodically through the town.
The local roti joint is the town’s favourite hangout spot.
"I consider this place safe, to an extent. But we also have to choose which place to go," said Naowarat Noiphong, 62, president of the Seemaya fabric dyeing group in tambon Na Tham. This Yala native added that the insurgency doesn't really affect her life anymore.
"We're quite used to it, I guess. Before, we wouldn't dare to go out anywhere. We realise now the incidents are not happening near us," she said. "However, we do tend to avoid touristy spots like Bala Hala forest or Bang Lang dam even though they are gorgeous. You could say we're suspicious and wary."
At the province’s annual fruit festival, locals spare no expense dressing up for the parade.
Naowarat said that, long before the conflict, Yala was popular with tourists. Bus loads of travellers used to roam the streets each day. But the bullets and bombs changed everything.
At the province’s annual fruit festival, locals spare no expense dressing up for the parade.
Despite the loss and pain, Yala was far from timid and lifeless, as one may have imagined a "war zone". As dawn breaks in the central district, the market by a railway track is crowded. There are advertisements along the street of latest movies showing at the Coliseum, a shabby shopping mall that also serves as the only cinema in town. The mall looks old and rundown, and I was told nobody really cared to improve the place for fear of insurgency.
In the inner city, there are rows of concrete barriers installed on the edge of a pedestrian walkway. They are beautifully painted in various designs, which include a train station, postboxes and more. But these barriers were never intended to be street art. The reason behind its existence is bleak.
"These barriers were constructed to lessen the impact of an explosion," explained Saimas Doroseh, an intern at Yala's PR department. Apparently, the street I was on was under attack some time ago, which prompted the construction of the barriers to ease people's minds.
"Students from Rajabhat painted them to make them look less scary," she added.
Life can be about taking precautions in Yala. Outside a 7-Eleven in Betong, there is a sign requesting people to keep their eyes out for anything unusual and suspicious. This may include anything from unattended backpacks, cars with no license plates or strangers leaving their belongings behind.
One of the province's unspoken rules is that you should not snoop around a police checkpoint -- especially not with a camera in hand.
I was stopped by a stern policeman outside a city checkpoint. He wasn't happy that a stranger was taking photos of the checkpoint. He asked for my ID.
"The South is different," the officer explained curtly. He gave my card a long look before allowing me to take photos.
A view from Kho Yae bridge in Than To district.
"By the way, you're not taking photos for them, are you?" he asked in almost a joking manner, though his face was dead serious.
The insurgency may be responsible for the people's agitation. But, on the other hand, it has also inspired locals to take up volunteer work to help protect their own hometown.
Chartchai Yotha is a company manager by day and a volunteer for Betong's tourist police by night. He has been patrolling the streets for a couple of years, along with 30 other people like him.
"Each night, I always think this could be it for me," he said. "But I want to take care of my own home before others have to come in and do it. We, the locals, can make it safe."
Chartchai said he and his team don't carry weapons, as it makes the tourists uncomfortable.
"I only have a pen on me," said Chartchai, with a chuckle. "Tourists get scared when they see guns and they tend to step away when men in green and black camouflage make their way in."
In order to appear more friendly, Chartchai's team is dressed in white polo shirts. The team also speaks different languages. Most of the tourists are Chinese-Malaysian on weekend holidays. Friday to Sunday mark the busiest time in Betong.
"We listen to reports if there are any suspicious cars. We get the tourists back to their hotel if they're lost. It's one of things we can do to reassure tourists. It can't be denied that the economy does well because of tourism and so we have to take care of them, too."
The nightlife in the central district and Betong can be quite lively, surprisingly. There is no curfew and it's common for people -- locals and tourists -- to let off some steam in pubs, karaoke bars, sports bars or even a roti joint. There are dek wan revving up their engines through the neighbourhood and music can be felt pulsing through hotel room walls even at 2am.
After having spoken to a few locals, it is clear that Yala is not so different from the rest of the country. People love Nadech Kugimiya. And while the choice of popular music includes songs in central and southern dialects, most people can sing along to Pang Nakarin's Khon Mee Sanae. The province also hosted the "Bike for Mom" and "Bike for Dad" events and even had a Car Free Day.
At the province's annual fruit festival held a week ago, there was a parade with colourful floats and fancy costumes from different districts. Floats were decorated with local fruits like durian, rambutan, mangosteen and more. At the end of the parade, attendees were picking fruits off the floats to take home. Some ate them on the spot. The people, young and old, dressed themselves in their best or in colourful or fancy costumes.
The three-day festival was chaired by Doldej Padhanarath, the governor of Yala, who aims to promote local products, fruits and tourist spots in his jurisdiction.
"Yala has many beautiful things on offer, like the Aiyerweng sea of fog in Betong -- that's fast becoming a tourist hot spot," said the governor. "In all areas, we focus on people's safety. We have security officers stationed throughout the province. The locals are also friendly and helpful."
To further improve the economy and encourage tourism, there is a plan in motion for an airport construction in Betong. It is expected that the new airport will open in a few years time.
"This place may seem dangerous in the news," acknowledged Sgt Major 1st Class Chaiyawat Sangthong, who was stationed with his team outside Sanam Chang Phueak Park in Yala city where the fruit festival was held.
"Outsiders would find it scary. But when you get to come here yourself, it's actually not too bad."
Our experience in Yala was quite true to Chaiyawat's words. People were kind and they really didn't mind helping out a stranger. Due to the unrest, the province remains mostly authentic -- being untouched, unexplored and untrampled by tourism as in other regions.
Though the danger is still apparent, it seems more dangerous to people who only know Yala from the news, rather than those who have actually set foot there.
