Understanding a country's grief

Understanding a country's grief

How the mourning for HM the King has affected foreign travellers in Thailand

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Understanding  a country's grief
Photo by Patipat Janthong

Since the death of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej last Thursday, a shockwave of emotional distress has been felt across Thailand. As the country observes a period of mourning, emotions continue to resonate.

Although the gravity of the late King's passing may be something that only Thais fully understand, they are not the only ones who have felt it. Foreign travellers from around the world who are in Thailand have also found themselves caught in the historic moment.

The backpackers hub of Khao San Road is a stone's throw away from the Grand Palace, a popular tourist attraction that has been closed off and is now reserved for people wishing to pay their respects. As Thailand tries to balance between the sanctity of the mourning period and the attempt to ensure that things will soon go back to normal, tourism is naturally a sector that will be impacted. Restaurants and bars are open, though music and merry activities are not encouraged. Many events and traditional festivals have been volumed down, if not totally cancelled. All of this as the peak tourist months are about to begin.

Still, most foreign visitors to Thailand understand the significance of what happened. Life chats with a few about their experiences and plans following the King's death.

Jamie Rieken, left, and Alison Gilmore. Photos: Brandon Harder

Jamie Rieken, 31 -- Seattle, United States,
and Alison Gilmore, 30 -- Minneapolis, United States
Tourists, Khao San Road

"Having only been in Thailand for a few hours when last Friday's motorcade took place, Rieken was immediately struck by the magnitude of what was happening, she said.

"I think it's been really moving to see everybody come together so far. Everything I've read about [HM the King], the country has always loved him," she said. "So, I assume it's going to have a big impact.

"My cab driver, on the way here, he had a radio station on, and I had no idea what they were talking about, but everybody that came on to speak was crying, so I'm assuming that was what they were talking about.

"I know [the Thai King] was very beloved -- the longest-reigning monarch," she said. "To see the procession of people really spoke volumes to that, knowing that he did a lot to move the country forward."

As for interruptions to their travel plans, the pair said they weren't concerned.

"Ultimately, we just want to be respectful of the process going on right now and bear witness to it," Gilmore said.

Daniel Oystryk.

Daniel Oystryk, 23 -- Prince George, Canada
Tourist, Khao San Road

"We were planning on going to Koh Pha Ngan and then Koh Tao, and we were all supposed to go to the full-moon party," he said "Me and friends, whom I'm travelling with, we've pretty much completely changed our plans," said Daniel Oystryk.

Now that this has happened, and because there has been such a change in the atmosphere, the Canadian traveller said he "wants to respect that", so he and his friend are going to Vietnam.

"We're going to spend the next month in Vietnam and Cambodia," he said, "depending on what we hear and how things are going here, we may make our way back to Thailand and continue our travels.

"It's still an amazing place," he added.

"I understand and I respect 100% where the Thai people are coming from," he said. "It's really impressive just how much the Thai people love the King and revere him.

"Being from Canada, I know a monarchy is a lot different than our government, but if someone of power passed there, it would have far less effect on the locals. Here it's really cool to see how much love and respect they have for the royal family.

"This is all new to me, so it's kind of hard to take in at this point. I'm just trying to understand it as best I can," he concluded.

Wen Tzuhao.

Wen Tzuhao, 29 -- Taipei, Taiwan
Tourist, MBK Mall

"This is the first time I've come here," he said. "The first day, the King passed away."

"In Taiwan, we don't have a king. We just have a president, so I don't know when the King passes away, what happens in Bangkok. We think the King in Thailand is very important, more important than [Taiwan's] president.

"The news in Taiwan says maybe Bangkok will be dangerous," he went on, noting that Taiwan's media had also informed him that Thai businesses could potentially close if the King were to die.

"This is my vacation. If every store is closed, why did I come to Bangkok? So I was very worried about that," he said.

However, his concerns were soon alleviated. "Yesterday, I saw that every store will still be open and Bangkok is very peaceful, so I said, 'Oh, it's OK'.

"Because I don't know the Thai culture, I want just to say rest in peace and don't be worried," he said when asked what message he had for Thai people in light of their King's passing.

"The people will come to Bangkok, come to Thailand for their tour. Don't be worried about that. I will tell my friends in Taiwan that Bangkok is still peaceful."

Lars Holmstrom, left, and Piyaporn Humsuk.

Lars Holmstrom, 60 -- Stockholm, Sweden A
frequent visitor, who has a Thai common-law spouse, Khao San Road

"It will be a great loss for Thailand and Thai people," said Holmstrom.

"People want to do something to mourn or to show their honour right now," he said. "That is the first thing people are thinking of.

"You can see this manifested today during the transport," he said of the motorcade that moved the King from Siriraj Hospital to the Grand Palace last week.

Although Sweden also observes a monarch as its head of state, the perception of the Swedish people toward their King differs, he said.

"It's more deeply rooted here, the respect for the King," he said. "The honour of the King and the respect for the King and the admiration for the King is much bigger here in Thailand than in Sweden.

"His Majesty King Bhumibol was a great friend of our king," he added. "I'm impressed by the way [Thai people] honour their monarch.

"Thailand goes on," he concluded.

Simon Eglington.

Simon Eglington, 43 -- London, United Kingdom
Tourist, Khao San Road

"Having done some prior travel in Thailand, Eglington said he understands two things to be of great importance to Thai people.

"One of them being the King, and one of them being the Buddhist religion. To be respectful of Thai culture is very much to appreciate their love of those two things," he said.

Having just flown in from Mandalay, Myanmar, the scene on the ground didn't meet his expectations, he said.

"I expected the streets to be deserted for some reason."

However, all the way into Bangkok from the airport link there was a sea of people wearing black, he noted.

"This is one of the most vibrant places, this is a melting pot between the East and West here on Khao San Road, and it's very subdued," he continued. "The country is obviously in mourning, isn't it?

"From my perspective, this is becoming a stronger and stronger country, a strong economy, [and] it can't just stop," he said. "And if it does, then it will have a negative effect on the local and the national economy.

"Yes, it's right to mourn, but don't mourn for too long, because that will have a detrimental effect on exactly the people the King tried to protect the most."

His sentiment toward the Thai people was straightforward.

"They're an incredibly strong nation, incredibly strong people, and they need to reflect on that strength."

Piotr Szczeszen.

Piotr Szczeszen, 25 -- Poznan, Poland
Tour Leader, Khao San Road

"It has influences," Szczeszen said of the King's passing. "I remember Khao San, how it look like before and it's a little bit different. "It's sadness and we have to respect it. We will see what happens next."

The Pole had read before that the King was hospitalised. He remembered all the press about the pink on the street and the praying for him early last week.

"We can talk here, and a few days ago we can't talk here because [the tourists] were too loud, yes? That's why we changed our plan," he said. "Before, we thought: In Bangkok we'll party and we'll go sightseeing.

"Later, we'll fly to Phuket. We have a lot of activities like sport, lying on the beach, surfing the waves, wakeboarding."

From Phuket, he said his 22-person group plans to sail on catamarans around areas like Krabi, Phang Nga Bay, Rai Leh and Ko Phi Phi.

"Thailand is still beautiful, and we understand what has happened," he said.

"There are a lot of things to do without alcohol, without music."

Amar Agarwal, left, and Dinesh Agarwal.

Amar Agarwal, 45 -- Kolkata, India,
and Dinesh Agarwal, 41 -- Kolkata, India
Tourists, MBK Mall

"Amar and Dinesh arrived last week in Pattaya. "The city was full of life, even at midnight," they said.

When it was announced that HM the King had passed away, however, they said they noticed an immediate reaction.

"The city [of Pattaya] died," Amar said. "No music, no entertainment. It's a very lively city, but everyone was mourning, so there was no life in the entire city."

HM the King's death has put a damper on their visit, they said. "Everybody is in deep grieving. Everybody is in sorrow. How could we enjoy?" said Dinesh.

However, their sentiments toward the Thai people were of solidarity.

"We are with you, whatever happens," Dinesh said. "Everywhere, we will stand by the Thai people."

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