United in grief

Kand Pukrod, 63, a construction worker from Yala province, was sitting on plastic sheets that served as his makeshift mattress on the hard ground. It was drizzling throughout the evening, and Kand decided to settle down under one of the big white marquees.

"If not for the rain, I would sleep right on the grass. I was doing that the night before," he pointed to the vast, albeit muddy field of Sanam Luang behind him. "The wind was cool. And we could watch the Grand Palace all night.

In order to visit the King's royal urn, Kand took time off from building roads in Yala, hopped on a train and arrived at Hua Lamphong station. As he has no family living in Bangkok, he decided to stay at Sanam Luang to save money.

From the moment the body of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej was transported from Siriraj Hospital to the Grand Palace, Thai people from across the country have gathered daily at Sanam Luang to pay respect to their King. While most go home or return to their hotel at night, some have kept vigil outside the palace walls, with many choosing to sleep in tents or on the ground. But that was before the Joint Peace and Order Centre set up a new regulation prohibiting people from staying overnight at Sanam Luang. Visitors are now allowed to enter from 4am to 9pm so that they can pay their last respects to the late King in front of the Royal Urn in the Throne Hall.

Siriphun Ouisuntivong, 52, who operates Nakaorimlay Homestay in Chumphon province spent most of her day at Sanam Luang. Contrary to Kand, Siriphun has relatives in Bangkok. She, however, didn't tell them of her arrival and arrived at the Grand Palace alone.

"I wanted to be as close to the King as I possibly could," Siriphun said. On top of her small suitcase, she placed a framed picture of a young King Bhumibol.

Most mourners who flock to Sanam Luang, like Kand and Siriphun, have travelled from far provinces. Constant drizzle on some days did not prevent people from coming here. Many queued for free food.

Siriphun Ouisuntivong. Brandon Harder

All visitors at Sanam Luang currently can benefit from different free facilities and services -- anything from Wi-Fi, haircuts and massages to motorcycle taxi rides. Freebies like black ribbons, tissue paper and inhalants also are being distributed throughout the area. Still, nothing can top the overflowing amount of free food being served around the clock.

"There is food from all regions here," said Kand. "In the morning, coffee, pa tong go [fried dough] and rice soup are already being handed out. Even the princesses are giving meals to us, too!"

Chalermrak Surassawadee, managing director of Thai Home Catalog, brought along her staff members to cook rice and omelettes for the people. The meal was cooked on-site, and its mouthwatering smell attracted a long line of mourners. Her team prepared a total of 1,000 eggs and 20kg of rice. She estimated that she'd handed out some 500 plates of rice after an hour or so, and will continue handing out food until nothing is left.

"I'm here to give food for fellow Thai people -- those who've come here to pay respect to my Father," she said. "It's a funeral that welcomes every Thai person."

A regulation has since been imposed that nobody can hand out food after 8pm to maintain order. Not an easy rule to enforce, however. Chalermrak said authorities did drop by at closing time. Still, no one had the heart to break things up as there was still a long line of people waiting for food.

The circular walkway that enclosed Sanam Luang is now filled with a long row of marquees designated for well-meaning people. Volunteers can book a time slot to come in and distribute food and water from fried chicken and vegetables to pastries, hot dessert and chilled fruit juice.

Security is a priority for everyone living inside Sanam Luang.

According to Master Sgt Preecha Channil and Master Sgt Noppadol Panyasan, who are stationed at the Peace and Order Maintaining Centre, there are thousands of staff -- from the police, army, marines and volunteers -- taking turn monitoring security inside the park and palace.

Many barbers now offer free haircuts. Photo: Brandon Harder

"We have staff patrolling 24 hours a day. At night, we would go around on bicycle to make sure there is no trouble," they said. Surveillance cameras are installed throughout the park. There are also metal detectors set up at the park's entrance.

The officials said they have encountered issues such as theft, cases of missing children, and a few drunk or mentally ill homeless causing a ruckus. There has been nothing major so far.

The Peace and Order Maintaining Centre is located in the middle of Sanam Luang. It can be easily spotted with a giant white balloon flying overhead. Security can be reached 24/7 at hotline number 1899.

The cleaning staff at Sanam Luang have been joined by a team of volunteers who have dedicated themselves to keeping "the lawn outside Father's house" clean.

Oruoma Ngogsiri, 21, a third-year student from North Bangkok University, came to the palace with her friends and teachers in order to help pick up trash. They were seen removing big garbage bags full of rubbish.

"We've found a lot of foam and plastic bottles," said Oruoma. She has been here twice before, and now feels the situation has improved due to the increasing amount of volunteers.

"When I first came here, the trash was overflowing, it started to smell and disrupt people.

"We can't really solve this problem at its cause. There are too many people throwing things on the ground. We can just do our part in coming in and picking the trash up. It's good to see people coming [to pay respect to the King]. But don't destroy the place with your garbage."

Not far away from Sanam Luang, vendors have basically set up an impromptu market on one sidewalk of Ratchadamnoen Road, starting from early in the day. There were selfie sticks, shirts, stickers, wristbands, vintage coins and bank notes, pictures of the royal family and more on sale all the way from Democracy Monument to Sanam Luang.

And to facilitate mourners at Sanam Luang, mobile toilets also are available.

"I'm thinking of coming back a few more times, too," commented Kand. "We only have this chance -- in this period of time only -- before we have no more."