Pak Klong Talad, Bangkok's iconic flower market, is getting a fresh start in a new location, after vendors were swept off the old-town pavements last year.
"Situated only 7km from the old market site," boasts the campaign to promote the new Flower Market Thailand, a 50 rai covered marketplace on Charansanitwong-Kanchanapisek Road, on the Thon Buri side of the river.
- Photo gallery: New flower market
This privately owned facility opened its first phase to flower vendors and to the public in early June, setting itself as an alternative -- and, in time, a replacement? -- to the original Pak Klong Talad.
Pak Klong Talad, the primary flower market in Thailand -- and the fourth-largest in the world -- had long-been an economic platform selling all kinds of agricultural products, as well as a tourist attraction.
It is still featured on the Tourism Authority of Thailand's website, despite having been disbanded by city officials last year, as part of their "Clean-Up Campaign" efforts to reclaim the pavement.
Nearly 1,500 licensed and unlicensed vendors were forced to move out as a result, making way for pedestrians and clearing congestion on the road.
"Our sales have dropped very low since we had to relocate inside a nearby market, to a smaller stall," says Sookjai, a fruit vendor who just recently decided to move to the new Thon Buri flower market. Before coming to her decision, she had set up a temporary shop in one of the three markets -- one state-owned, the other two private -- City Hall has provided vendors as relocation choices.
"We were tucked away, hidden in a dark corner of the market and had leftover produce every day," Sookjai says. "It was impossible to make an income. I've come here to start anew," she adds, hopeful.
The new flower market is indeed extensive, bright and airy. But a mere few days after opening last month, it was still deserted for the most part.
Sookjai admits she hasn't closed her shop in the old-town market yet, as she waits to see where business will be most favourable.
The marketplace can accommodate 3,000 stalls. Nearly half have already been filled in the past month, according to Bangkok Metropolitan Administration governor Aswin Kwanmuang's website.
Rental fees in the new market -- starting at 100 baht per stall per day -- are much cheaper than in other old town sites, several vendors argued.
The new site also has air-conditioned rooms to keep flowers fresh, as well as a large parking area and public toilets. Further construction works for a second phase are still being carried out.
The marigold -- or dao rueng -- flowers that filled Pak Klong Talad can also be found at the new site.
Photos: Pornprom Satrabhaya
Kanokwan Chitkron, a flower seller, booked her stalls at the market as soon as she heard about the facility being built.
"It's much more comfortable and convenient. We're not blocking the traffic, and some customers who aren't living in the inner city are quite happy, as they don't have to drive through narrow roads and congestion to reach us," she says.
"The parking here is free, too," Kanokwan adds. "You're not likely to get that in the old town."
However, with most vendors still afraid to make the move, the old market sites remain better-stocked and provide a wider choice of products.
"For the moment, most customers keep heading to the original site, because they can get all their products in one go," she says. "That will take time to change, because people are still attached to Pak Klong Talad."
Even though City Hall banned Pak Klong Talad vendors from operating on the streets, the original market hasn't disappeared, according to Supitcha Tovivich, a lecturer at Silpakorn University's Faculty of Architecture and chairperson of the Community Act Network at the Association of Siamese Architects.
"Vendors are scattered in three or four locations, but you'll still find the same fruits, vegetables and fresh flowers as in the past," she sways.
Last year, at a time when the BMA was enforcing its ban, Supitcha and her students conducted a study on the market.
Not only does the original Pak Klong Talad have a history of over 100 years but also became one of Bangkok's most iconic neighbourhoods.
People remember Pak Klong for its flower market. Community life in the area, as well as daily rituals, are centred on the market too.
"You can build a new marketplace in an instant. But to re-create a neighbourhood in the community sense -- that takes decades," the academic argues.
She regrets that officials have decided to ban the flower vendors altogether, rather than taking more time to find a solution that would suit all parties.
Although vendors have encroached on the pavement for a long time, and traffic was always a problem, officials have let it go in the past.
"Then they cleared everything and everyone out," Supitcha says, hoping that better management solutions could be found in the future, as other old-town neighbourhoods are the next targets of this "clean-up campaign".
Having a new flower market is good news, she adds. Indeed, it is more convenient for wholesale trade.
"But the charm of taking a tuk-tuk to the old market site next to the river to buy yourself some fresh flowers shouldn't be taken away from us."
Pornprom Satrabhaya
