Same Same Festive Feasting

Christmas is coming, the goose is getting fat, and will soon make a fleeting appearance on Goji “live” (no chafing dishes) gourmet buffet restaurant at Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park’s Christmas Eve and Christmas Day buffets, and possibly New Year’s Eve as well. Plus much besides.

It’s time for Christmas fans to realise again how much we’ve been missing the incomparable flavours of classic Christmas Dinner (it’s never called lunch). It’s not until you’ve got a mouthful of roasted butterball turkey, fresh cranberry sauce and robust giblet bulging your cheeks again that it all comes back: the weeks of anticipation, gathering intensity with every window of the advent calendar opened, the blessed cessation of work till after New Year’s (okay, in Thailand, dream on), and, ultimately, the big Eve and Day when everyone (okay, nearly everyone) plays nice and no one gets scolded (much).

But it doesn’t just happen. Mum must shop till her arms drop off, then slave in the kitchen till she’s ready to crash, though she miraculously pulls out of the nose-dive as she’s ladling the gravy and joins the party around the dining table as dad gets carving.

So much for the good old days. Here in Thailand, we’re spoiled for choice with all the chefs and restaurants bidding to do all the work, so why sweat it?

Some undertake the sacred mission more sensitively than others, however, and the Michael Hogan-Alfred Merkel-Itthi Nitayaporn-led traditionalist-internationalist team helming Goji’s offerings takes some beating.

Memories being what they are, wherever Hogan has held court during his illustrious 8-year career in Bangkok to-date, the media flock, these days comprising as many bloggers and “influencers” as old-school scribes, is treated to a lavish preview that never fails to delight the congregation.

And so the word is carried to Christmasophiles and laypersons, and New Year’s Eve party lovers alike, that the year’s most indulgent and extraordinary buffet spreads are fast-approaching and it’s time to book your seats.

One of the most marvellous things about the Christmas dinner and festive tea time specialties the team has prepared is how seamlessly the decorative themes infuse the cuisine. Each dish and dainty is iconic of the occasion, bedecked with baubles redolent of the Christmas tree and festive bunting, and radiating aromas so evocative they’re practically sacred.

The Christmas keynote is struck with the traditional aperitif, or welcome drink, “mulled wine” to Australians and other Anglo-Saxons like Hogan, or “glühwein” to Continental types like Merkel. “It’s basically a good red spiced with cinnamon, star anise and ginger, simmered, the idea being to warm your insides up mid-winter,” Hogan explains. But bad weather be blowed, it warms the cockles just as well in air-conditioning! Moreover, its reputation as a strong drink is misplaced as the alcohol is evaporated off.

Another signature of Christmas is rich pâtés and terrines of which we tried two of the actual five: a robust farmhouse-style pork, mushroom and pistachio terrine-en-croute in wonderful shortcrust pastry; plus looking as Christmassy as they tasted exquisitely, canapés of smooth duck liver sliced onto fruit buns and garnished with fresh berries.

The customary main festive appetizer course is fresh seafood, an item where Goji goes to extraordinary lengths to offer the best produce in premium condition, including serving selections on silver stands.

We gorged on Boston lobster, rock lobster, Alaskan king crab, scallops, and oysters, all tingling with freshness and matched with perfect Thai seafood sauce, classic French vinaigrette, and wedges of lemon.

Somehow the oysters, in particular, go down even better knowing that their shells are ground up and added to chicken feed as part the hotel’s “no-landfill” objective.

The salad proposed also featured Christmas decorative aesthetics, with red berries and roasted chestnuts mingling among the deftly combined leaves in which rocket struck the keynote flavour, delectably coupled with Miss Piggy pink creamy, fruity-sour raspberry-passionfruit vinaigrette.

Merkel’s bread roll varieties, complemented with sundried tomato chutney and flavoured butter, completed the awesome ensemble.

And so to this year’s soup, velvety smooth roasted butternut squash tweaked with ginger and garnished with crunchy croutons and savoury bacon.

Cue the turkey and ham that arrived in the insulated hampers that facilitate the delivery service for those who want the real deal at home.

Battered with butter, mated with dried fruit and chestnut-infused bread stuffing, giblet gravy and cranberry confiture, it rammed home what the Christmas dining fuss is all about. Equally moist and tender honey-glazed gammon ham cooked on the bone, and an ensemble of vegetables — carrot & hazelnut, mashed potato, roasted butternut squash, and de rigeur Brussels sprouts with bacon and pork fat, met the strictest Goldilocks qualifications; neither too raw nor overcooked.

JUST FOR STARTERS

The carveries of the actual Christmas and New Year buffets, as indeed the above and below, will be broader still, including whole baked fish, lamb rack, prime rib, wagyu beef and on. Not to mention said goose that crop up among the multi-ethnic Asian stations that further include superb sushi and sashimi. Oh and the total buffets are altogether much broader still.

At this point, one is feeling pleasantly full. But don’t let this stop you from experiencing Merkel’s truly beautiful Christmas pudding; rich and oozy, fruity, nutty and with more than a whiff of brandy, served with salted caramel ice cream.

It might be stretching one’s waist-band to continue delving into the desserts but the temptation is hard to resist when the assortment includes wonderful minced pies, traditional cookies and cakes German, French, English and Italian style, including homemade panettone, sweet doughy bread that takes 70 hours to prepare, and sublimely excellent German stolen sweet bread.

And who can resist, six different kinds of Bouche Noelle ranging “bamboo style” mango and coconut to classic patisserie vanilla & raspberry. Plus several Yule Logs, from grand cru chocolate to gingerbread-spice and mulled-wine mousse. Not to mention multiple macaroons and pralines.

What can still go down easily is the extensive selection of stone fruits, peaches, plums etc., ripened in the Australian summer sun. Conclude with pungent cheeses that are never neglected at Goji.

More mouth-watering culinary fireworks will be let off on New Year’s Eve which distinguishes itself with ultra-deluxe produce where Christmas is bound to be classic.

Last not least, the soundtrack is exceptional. At Goji you won’t be turned off Christmas forever by the same three Christmas songs. Instead, it’s an all-star array of seemingly every hit Christmas hit ever recorded, from Chuck Berry and Bing Crosby to Elvis Pressley and Paul McCartney.

Not your cupcake? Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park’s other restaurants - Akira Back, ABar Rooftop Bar, Siam Tea Room –all have Christmas and New Year features of their own.

Celebrate Brilliantly this Festive Season