What a difference a Plate makes. Especially if it’s “L’Assiette Michelin” aka Michelin Plate where the international restaurants bible’s incognito inspectors “have discovered quality food”.
Let’s be clear, Rossini’s inclusion in the 2nd Michelin Guide to Thailand doesn’t yet place it among the highly prestigious 1-3 star or Bib Gourmand (“where you can get two courses and a glass of wine or a dessert for $40 or less”) categories. It simply points to it among some 217 restaurants in the country deemed worthy of any note at all.
Nevertheless, the regal red plaque Rossini’s is now entitled to display, bearing the simple inscription “fresh ingredients, carefully prepared: a good meal” in modest contrast to the usual hyperbole surrounding everything Michelin, does pinpoint a palpable new levity in the overall dining experience.
Everyone from the immaculately preppy wait staff to culinary artist, Gaetano Palumbo, are quietly delighted, humbled and inspired, by the recognition. After all, it’s relaxing to know you’re on the right track and all you have to do is keep on keeping on. “Michelin is something you dream of,” says Gaetano deferentially.
Is the kudos justified? Well, the energy of the restaurant is several degrees lighter than before the makeover, both literally and figuratively, and it is impossible to fault the unfailingly delightful dishes.
At lunch time the rough rock-hewn Tuscan manor-like skeleton, complete with timber-framed ceiling and classy tiled floor, has a castle garden feel to it. The space is shared with elements redolent of upscale Roman apartment interiors, complete with retro casement windows letting in just enough light to the cool interior, homey artefacts lined up on sleek shelves, and prominently-positioned fresh flowers arranged with a feminine touch.
New rustic-refined wood-topped tables stripped of the starched white cloths of yore are yet deceptively artful with their ornamental brass podiums. Sheers have been removed from internal windows so the hallway beyond plays like an upscale arcade.
The monumental Tuscan fireplace commanding the prep-kitchen is overhung with an outsize mantelpiece big enough to support a substantial vintage brass espresso urn. The stone counter below has room for four induction ovens and everything required to ensure each dish reaches the diner in impeccable fettle.
Born and raised in a small, traditional fishing village in Agrigento, Sicily, Gaetano has that visceral connection with food Italians are known for. He was in charge of the kitchen at Rossini’s from 2006 until 2010, and returned in 2015 bringing with him fresh perspectives and an insatiable hunger for new ideas to supplement the always popular restaurant’s time-honoured signature dishes.
“We make sure our food tastes traditionally Italian, but we present it in new ways,” is how he summarises his culinary philosophy.
He’s evidently come a long way. To start, the complimentary bread basked is new; a kind of squashed bishop’s mitre of fluffy focaccia accompanied with sweet sundried tomato salsa, extra virgine olive oil, and eggplant tapenade dips.
A new starter stars tender, succulent quail legs and freshly boiled quail egg (a set lunch dish, 640++/780++/980++). The former is wrapped in a bird’s nest of crispy kaitee pasta with the knee jutting out like a just-hatched head, all anchored in smooth polenta mash. The egg nestling atop another nest and a contrastingly pungent salsa verde (parsley, basil, garlic, anchovy) complete the exquisite ensemble.
Another new starter is one of a plethora of vegetarian dishes that are not just for vegetarians. It’s a classic but perfected eggplant parmigiana (B570++), but lighter and fresher, with Parmesan sauce, Parmesan foam, and slow-roasted cherry tomato together and fresh basil leaf complementing the delightfully squishy, highly nutritious long tongue of eggplant itself.
Then there’s a kind of vegetarian cannelloni (B550++), except that the filling isn’t wrapped in pasta but in fresh celeriac root with an uncannily similar texture. Inside is a rich parmesan cream infused with earthy wild mushroom, all dusted with roasted almonds, forest mushrooms and saffron oil.
And so to mains, including a new USA short rib (B1,950++), seared then sous-vide tenderised, and crisped with burnt onion and served with onion and vegetable beef jus and smoked potatoes on a bed of cabolonero, the classic Tuscan leaf vegetable that melts in the mouth.
Rather surf than turf? Also self-evidently Michelin-worthy is a generous garoupa steak (B1,450++) served with white beans, fresh Roman artichoke cooked in the classic Roman style, and sauced with nduja spicy salami paste for a sharp savoury complement to the subtle seafood flavour, all counterpoised with saffron sauce.
A special appetizer with the New Year’s Eve set menu is extravagant in the extreme – sublimely smooth foie gras terrine wrapped in fresh tuna and stuffed inside king crab legs. The awesome roll is capped with crispy lavroche arrayed like a window box with wild flowers. All this is contrasted and complemented with strong, bitter, pungent, orange, grapefruit and finger lime citrus tones.
The desserts ensure meals end on a crescendo.
Jaded chocolate lovers will rejoice in hazelnut milk chocolate and orange mousse inside a grand cru chocolate ball (B320++) served with espresso-infused milk chocolate sauce, and caramel crunch. Certain handmade chocolates spring to mind but none on par.
“Latte e Miele” (B310++) is a truly ambrosial plate of milk and honey. A core of runny honey is caught inside mild, pure milk ice cream, enhanced with milk crisps and honey brittle. Fresh and light, there’s nothing quite like it, even if the dish dates back to Gaetano’s grandmother’s days.
Last not least, white chocolate “tortino” soufflé with raspberry-mint sauce (B320++) is also surprisingly light and not at all overly-sweet as the chocolate might suggest.
Gaetano also contributes to the petits fours, including intense raspberry jellies and soft crunching amaretti.
Complementing his new-fashioned dishes made with throwback ingredients are bold wines.
And as for the restaurant’s namesake patron (d. 1868), composer of 39 operas that include the William Tell overture, and once labelled “the Italian Mozart”, one feels that he would thoroughly approve.
“I believe in destiny,” says Palumbo. I wonder what the stars foretell.
The Grande Club, SPG, Marriott Rewards, and The Ritz-Carlton members enjoy privileges.
Lunch from 12-14.30pm
Monday - Friday
Dinner from 18–22.30pm daily.
Rossini’s: Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok. Tel. +662 649 8364, +662 6498000. Email: dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com; www.rossinisbangkok.com.
