Initiatives to promote cycling are everywhere. The Thai Health Promotion Foundation has organised activities to encourage people to use bicycles as part of their daily life. Even Prime Minister Prayut Chan-o-cha wants to see bike-friendly streets in Bangkok.
Tour groups are now taking advantage of the available bike lane on Phra Athit Road.
But whether or not these environmentally friendly dreams can come true is still in question given many of the city's current bike lanes — and there are not nearly enough — have proven disappointing, unsatisfactory and impractical.
Panot Phutthaisong, an avid cyclist who has been commuting by bike for a decade, knows well the hindrances. He usually rides around the Min Buri, Thon Buri and Silom areas, and has experienced sharing the road with bigger and faster vehicles whose drivers seem to detest bicycles. There are also dips and holes dotting the city's streets, making cycling a difficult and dangerous task.
"We only ask that there is an even surface for us to ride on," said Panot. "If there could be a distinct lane for bikes, that's even better. You don't need to put up cones or poles. You just have to make it a separate lane that cars can't come in on."
When you look at our city's streets, you can barely tell that a lot of people actually like commuting by riding on two-wheels. The thought of biking on streets filled with speeding vehicles is a dangerous idea for most. For car owners, sharing the already-packed streets with cyclists is an annoyance. And with the seemingly nonexistent bike lanes we have, there seems to be no place for cyclists at all.
On one recent Friday, Life took to the streets to explore some of the bike lanes currently available across Thailand's capital.
Outside Bangkok Tourism Division's information centre on Phra Athit Road.
Phra Athit Road, 11am
The green pathway on Phra Athit Road is as cracked and faded as many Thai people's understanding of the concept of a bike lane.
Following the path from Wangna Theater & Arts Gallery to Phra Sumen Fort, it is astonishing to see how impractical the bike lane in this old part of Bangkok is. The orange poles that serve as barriers to separate the lane from bigger vehicles are broken in many places, allowing buses and vans to take root on the street. Outside Tha Chang Wangna Pier, the shady spot beneath the bridge is a makeshift meeting point for big tour groups. Fruit vendors stop by to sell cold mango and watermelon to tourists, and no one seems to know — or care — that this area is actually designated and designed for bicycles.
For a more usable part of the lane, cyclists — if they are silly or brave enough — have to battle with speeding motorcycles and tuk-tuks. They also have to avoid riding into passers-by who have to step down and walk on the lane due to the cluttered footpath.
A green cycle lane monopolised by other vehicles.
There are occasional cyclists passing by. Some still follow leisurely within the green lane. Others just forsake the lane altogether and opt to take their chance with cars on the road.
Despite its current impractical nature, the bike lane on Phra Athit Road does have a lot of potential. There are chic, artsy cafes and traditional architecture that is already popular among tourists. Under proper rules and regulations, this place could be transformed into a hub for those who wish to tour the old town on bicycles. With officials' promises to clean up the lanes around the Rattanakosin area, it remains to be seen how the area will fare.
Sathon's bike lane is convenient with the Pun Pun Bangkok Bicycle Share station and BTS Silom Line nearby.
Sathon, 2pm
Traffic congestion is a signature of this business district. But when you ride on bikes in the separate lane, you are free from moody car drivers. Instead, will have to live with speeding motorcyclists who are also making use of this lane.
Cycle lane outside Bangkok Christian College, where obstacles render it useless.
Sathon's bike lane is quite convenient. With the whole BTS line above, cyclists can just take their bikes on board the train and travel to a lot of places without facing polluted traffic. There are the Pun Pun stations — Bangkok Metropolitan Administration's (BMA) bike-sharing system — along the way. Even if you don't own a bicycle, you can rent one from a station and make your way on the 1m-wide lane.
With a throng of motorcycles zooming by, however, this spot doesn't look so safe for amateurs, or anyone looking for a leisurely ride. On Sathon, you need to be fast and very careful.
It seems that some riders are just so fed up with motorcycles taking over the lane that they choose to ride on the busy road instead. Motorcyclists still prove to be one of the biggest challenges a cyclist faces on the streets here. There are also occasional waiting cars and taxis parking on the lane. They are usually not a permanent fixture, but rather an occasional disturbance.
There are also other minor obstacles along this bike lane. For example, outside Bangkok Christian College, there is a banner saying: "No cars can park outside the school." To enforce the rule, a row of orange cones is placed on the bike lane to prevent people from stopping their cars on the curb. A "no parking" sign from Yannawa Police Station is placed next to it, totally blocking the lane for oncoming bicycles and motorcycles.
Lumpini Park to Benjakiti Park, 4pm
The overpass between Lumpini and Benjakiti parks offers a quiet ride.
Biking will develop your leg muscles, but by cycling on the overhead lane that links two of Bangkok's green areas together, you are bound to work your arms as well.
From Gate 1 of Lumpini Park, it is only a short walk to the intersection of Sarasin Road and Wireless Road. There, a wide pedestrian bridge with a steep slope rises high. You walk up, pulling the bicycle with you as you go. Many would be tired out walking up with their bicycles. But once you get yourself up there, the rest of the way is just a cruise — except for the many ups and downs that will make you get off your bike and either carry it or drag it along in frustration.
This long section offers a lot of possibilities. The space is wide, which makes it safe for both riders and walkers to conveniently commute without running into each other. It is also quiet, and in good late afternoon weather this place makes a great spot for both a leisurely ride and getting to places with minimum risk.
Experience a peaceful, scenic ride as you get closer to Benjakiti Park.
The overpass itself is through a slum, and sometimes you will see children coming up and playing on the path. This is not really worrying as the path itself is quite spacious, offering room for different activities. It is also clean.
Before reaching Benjakiti Park, the path goes over a canal, and it is quite a scenic ride. Being away from the main street, there is minimal noise, and you can forget you're in the heart of Bangkok — except for the view of a long row of skyscrapers not far away. The path ends near the entrance to Thailand Tobacco Monopoly, which is just a short ride away from the park.
Cyclists can enjoy Bangkok's night sky if you don't mind riding in dim light.
Khlong Saen Saep, 6pm
This is a lane that should probably be attempted in the daytime only. At night, there is minimal light. It is dark, and you barely see anything. But during daytime, this route along the canal provides quite an impressive ride.
Bangkok is still known by some as the "Venice of the East", and this path will take you through charming waterways that have always been a big part of the city.
The path follows the canal route, connecting the small piers together within walking and riding distance. Faded graffiti on the walls provides a great backdrop for travelling, whether by boat or bicycle. It is also quiet for the most part, except for occasional passenger boats speeding by.
There are some obstacles along the way. Small steps and narrow lanes sometimes prove a difficulty for those commuting on two wheels. But this route is quite clear and mostly clean — something you almost don't expect from a waterway that has been known for its stench.
The good news is Khlong Saen Saep today is not so bad. Though the water still seems as dirty as any canal, surprisingly it doesn't really give off an awful smell. As it's cut off from the streets altogether — being a shortcut particularly for pedestrians, and cyclists to an extent — this route is quite convenient if you wish to avoid pollution from the streets.
At night, however, this path becomes quite dark with only occasional dim light streaming through the fence. It is recommended that you don't travel alone — if at all — on this path at night-time.
