Though no actual glowing embers or flaming yuletide logs are in evidence upon entering the Fireplace Grill at the InterContinental Bangkok on Phloen Chit Rd., there is an undeniable warmth that pervades the simple, uncluttered and elegantly understated dining room. Softly earth toned fabrics and natural wood surfaces play off gleaming steel countertops, grills and copper cooking pots housed neatly within the centrally placed, open-plan cooking plaza.
Executive Chef Leslie Stronach, whose decades under the toque has spanned no less than six continents, upholds the institution-class restaurant's nearly 50-year legacy of culinary excellence with both creative flair and reverence for tradition. His menu strikes a perfect balance of rich, hearty succulence and health-conscious garden freshness that is satisfying in the extreme.
Apropos the festive season, our meal opened with that holiday favourite, Roast Turkey with Cranberry Sauce and Stuffing. The duo of uniformly thick, centre-sliced breasts were neatly tiered atop a bed of herbed mixed fowl "Grandma's" style stuffing. Even the much-maligned Brussels Sprout put in a tender-textured, buttery-braised appearance alongside roasted Kipfler potatoes imported from France, while a pair of miniature gravy boats decanted an irresistible Shallot Crème Bread Sauce and refreshingly light Giblet Jus.
Next to arrive was the Pan roasted Scallop and Alaskan King Crab Thermidor with Emmenthal and Parmesan Hollandaise. The generously sized scallop was lightly browned and offered a firm bite, while the crab's gratinated cheese topping provided a creamy rich, earthy tasting accompaniment. Chef Leslie's knack for creating innovative garnishes with a life of their own was showcased in this dish with the inclusion of a coil of egg- and flour-less Prawn Udon noodle made entirely of emulsified prawn, along with a delightful and aptly named Potato "Confetti" consisting of crispy, impossibly miniscule and perfectly diced cubes of those premium imported Kipler spuds.
It was shellfish déjà vu time as a plate Pan Fried Scallops and Foie Gras Nuggets with XO Jus was presented. As with the previous dish, the scallops were gently browned outside, with a tender but firm bite. And carving the Foie Gras into small "nuggets" is a smart way to serve the goose liver delicacy: The crunchily-seared outer skin was a nice prelude to the soft, smooth, pâté-like consistency of the meat within, allowing these bite sized charms to be enjoyed in small, texturally diametric nibbles that are intensely flavourful without being overpowering. The farm-fresh pea tendril garnish (including the pods and seeds) provided a leafy, verdant appearance and were a pleasantly crispy complement to the dish's more densely-textured elements.
The tantalising procession of seafood continued with a Pan Roasted Snow Fish with Scallop Sausage, served on a gorgeous four sided dinner plate. The firm textured, creamy-white block of snow fish was moist and flavourful, easily separating into succulent layers at the slightest touch of the fork, while the scallop sausage offered a smooth texture and subtle, unassuming taste.
We pointed out earlier Chef Leslie's penchant for above-standard dinner plate ambience, and here he pulls out all the stops by creating a masterfully conceived and executed garnishing that was as much of a delight to behold as it was to consume. To enhance his Snow Fish, the Scotland-born kitchen Meister fashioned a daring Indo-Italian hybrid in the form of a tongue dazzling Saffron infused Vegetable Minestrone sauce that would be perfectly at home served in Delhi or Rome. Also populating the plate were a suite of miniature vegetables, artfully arranged in such a way as to suggest a tiny haute cuisine village of potato cube houses, needle-like carrot tip (imported from France) church steeples, broccoli flower shrubberies and pearl-sized, caviar tomato (imported from Holland) civic artworks.
But the evening's highlight was yet to come—the Duet of Tajima Wagyu
Grilled Sirloin (Marbling: 7+) and 24-hour Braised Short Rib (Marbling: 6+) with Red Wine Jus amply demonstrated that the Fireplace Grill's specialised grilling techniques do proper justice to these premium Australian-grown cuts of beef. The hearty, exceedingly tender slice of short rib, presented on a bed of silky smooth garlic'd potato purée, possessed a flavour born of pampered, carefully-fed livestock. A steak knife would have been overkill, as the expertly cooked beef surrendered without a fight to the blunt edge of our fork. The short rib was topped with five strips of Tajima Wagyu Sirloin, cooked to medium rare, char-crusted perfection.
A garnish of milk-dipped and breaded onion rings, fondant baby carrot and seasoned pea pods completed the dish.
The Fireplace Grill is open for dinner from 18:30 to 22:30 hours, seven days a week.
InterContinental Bangkok 973 Phloen Chit Road. Tel. 02 656 0444 www.icbangkok.com
