Cyril Mougin, 29, is the executive chef at Novotel Phuket Karon Beach Resort and Spa. He oversees the hotel’s four restaurants, one of which is the Asian-inspired TAi. Although he is trained in traditional French cooking, he showcases his passion for Asian food at TAi where he offers favourite dishes from Thai, Korean, Filipino, Japanese and Chinese cookbooks. We talk to him about his culinary journey.
When did you realise your passion for cooking?
Since I was a kid, I always loved to taste different things. I remember standing behind my mother while she was cooking. I wanted to be able to cook like her and helped her prepare the dishes. I became really interested in cooking when I was 10. Other boys might want to be firemen to save lives, but I wanted to become a chef because I can bring people happiness. If someone has a bad day, I could make their day better with good food. That brings me great satisfaction.
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST EXPERIENCE COOKING ASIAN FOOD?
While I was working at a restaurant in Lyon, we had two Japanese trainees who came to learn French food. They prepared some Japanese food and we started to play with flavours and made sushi with French ingredients. We also have big Vietnamese and Cambodian communities in France so I'm familiar with their food as well.
WHEN DID YOU COME TO BANGKOK?
I finished studying classic French cuisine at 18. Then I worked at different restaurants in France and Switzerland. I came here in 2009 and got a job at Silpakorn University International College, teaching a course the university co-operates with Institut Vatel. I worked with a Thai chef and we taught international students how to run a restaurant. I taught European food as a European cuisine specialist. It was a learning experience for me too. I got to work with young people who taught me about Thai culture and language. I collaborated with the Thai chef to make special dishes too. After that, I worked as a chef at several hotels in Thailand before I got my current job.
WHAT DOES AN EXECUTIVE CHEF DO?
It is not just about pure cooking as it entails so many things. Create the recipes. Create the concept. Think about all the processes and logistics. Find the best products. Come up with ideas to have your restaurant full of guests. Figure out who does what in the kitchen. It's like a kitchen manager. You don't have to be in the kitchen all the time.
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO OPEN AN ASIAN RESTAURANT IF YOUR BACKGROUND IS IN FRENCH COOKING?
I think it's good to take some risks. Being a foreigner in Asia, I think you should try to get out of your comfort zone. Especially as a chef, you should be open to new things because the learning process never ends. Every country has its own cuisine and there are so many ingredients. There's always something new to learn.
WHAT DO YOU FIND FASCINATING ABOUT THAI FOOD?
I call Thai cuisine the cuisine of the moment. It's instant. Everything is done very fast and with strong flavours. That's the magic of Thai food. In classic French cuisine, everything is great but it takes time. With Thai food, you make all your prep and you put things together when you need it and it's done.
ANY ADVICE FOR ASPIRING CHEFS?
Be sure of what you want. It's really hard work but if you're sure that it's what you want to do, it will bring you joy. Every day I wake up I don't feel like I have to go to work. I feel like I get to do what I love, not what I have to. Be open-minded and travel. Learning from cultures you aren't familiar with enriches you as a person and a chef.
