Signs of zodiac style

Signs of zodiac style

Swiss watchmaking combines with ancient Chinese astronomy for an eye-catching collection

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

As the Year of the Horse gallops into the last lap, the Chinese New Year, beginning on Feb 19, is now less than one month away.

The pink-gold version of the goat model with the back of the case revealing the mechanical self-winding movement.  

The goat, a symbol of a gentle and amicable spirit, will then take over from the lively and independent horse. The Chinese zodiac revolves around 12-year cycles, with each year named after animals that came to bid farewell to the Lord Buddha before his departure from Earth.

Since 2013, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has been paying tribute to each Chinese zodiac sign, beginning with a snake that curled on the dial and followed by a horse with a luscious mane.

This year's launch of the goat model took place at the SIHH 2015 (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), held in Geneva, from Jan 19 till today.

Vacheron Constantin is likely to continue featuring each of the 12 creatures, in order to complete The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection; one of the themes of its Metiers d'Art series aimed at honouring the arts and showcasing the maison's craftsmanship. 

Engravers and enamellers worked on the goat models presented in a 40mm case, and in pink gold or platinum, with a limited edition of 12 pieces for each version.

With gleaming horns, the engraved goat on the dial is inspired by the animal sculpted in paper according to the principles of Jianzhi, the Chinese art of paper-cutting that appears on the Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage list. 

The paper-cutting of Chinese zodiac signs is a remarkable demonstration of the art of using full and empty spaces, which challenged Vacheron Constantin to translate onto the dial, where the elegant goat stands at the centre, exuding a sense of calm and serenity through the sapphire crystal.

Allowing the goat to take centre-stage, the dial was designed with a hands-free display of time by showing the hour, minutes, day and date through four apertures arranged around the motif. The engraving goes into delicate details with the fleece measuring a mere fraction of a millimetre.

In addition, a leaf motif is etched directly in the metal, with the petal remaining semi-embedded in the gold base while the raised honeysuckle flowers appear to be floating over the dial.

The beauty of the engraving is enhanced by Grand Feu enamelling, a technique invented in Geneva, now performed only by a rare breed of artisans.

By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist increases the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. This process requires tight control of the colour and the reactions to the firing process that takes place in a kiln at around 800-900C. 

A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that further gives definition to the floral motif.

Established in 1755, Vacheron Constantin boasts a heritage in decorative techniques, with the expertise transferred from one generation to the next for artistic expressions through watchmaking. The aesthetic elements are coupled with mechanical movements for exceptional timepieces.

The goat model is fitted with the Calibre 2460 G4, a mechanical self-winding movement equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical motif inspired by the shape of the Maltese Cross, the brand's historical emblem.

With the movement parts displaying sophisticated finishing, the entire timepiece meets the criteria laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva — one of the highest tokens of horological craftsmanship created in 1886.

Therefore, the two series of watches are likely to fall into the hands of collectors, looking for a piece of art to adorn their wrists or for a lucky time-teller to make 2015 a good year.

The engraving of the fleece measuring a mere fraction of a millimetre.

The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac series: The Snake, The Horse and The Goat.

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