Under the purple and orange hue of dawn, our bus arrived at the base of Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei province. We had our tents, sleeping bags and backpacks as we got ready to trek one of the most gruelling uphill climbs in the country — a steep slope of 5.5km to the top of this popular mountain destination, which takes anywhere from four to eight hours.
But most travellers won't have to carry their belongings up this strenuous climb. At the foot of the mountain, a platoon of look haab — local men and women who offer a baggage carrying service — are waiting. Their livelihoods are determined by the weight of the stuff they bring up the slope for visitors.
Deepu Khuntod, 63, has been a carrier since 1986. He usually arrives at the mountain base at 6am, or earlier during high season. In one trip, he can carry around 35kg in a four-hour climb to the mountain top. Going down the mountain, he can be quicker, even with a heavier load.
After tagging and weighing all our items, they were then strapped to both ends of the carrying stick — a long bamboo rod with a cushion in the middle. The carriers then take the stick onto their shoulders and hike up the 5.5km trail, plus another 3km to the camping ground. Their service costs 30 baht per kilo, and we only pay when we get our belongings back.
A male carrier can take up to 70kg per trip.
There are currently 313 registered carriers ready to offer their service to tourists.
However, their long-time, steady income source could be threatened following a renewed plan to build a cable car up the mountain. Phu Kradueng is one of the country's top tourist destinations, boasting 5,000 travellers a day during peak season. The cable car would make it even more popular.
"If there are two ways to go up, then people would want to try the new, easier way. No one would climb up this path, and the carriers would have no job," said Deepu.
Look haabs, or carriers, have provided for their families for decades.
But the carriers are not the only people who would be affected should the project go ahead. Upon reaching Sam Haek — the first resting area up the steep trail — Tin Srivilas waved at us to come into her shop.
"Have a rest first. Do you want anything to eat or drink? It's a long way to the top," said Tin.
At 46, Tin is now a shop owner, selling food and cold drinks to help replenish tourists' energy levels. Tin herself was a carrier before opening her own shop. She has lived the majority of her life on Phu Kradueng.
"Many of us have been here for ages," said Tin, pointing to surrounding shops along the trail. "We've heard that, should the cable car project go ahead, we'll be allocated new space for our shops. But there have been no official talks yet."
Carriers prepare for the hike up.
The Phu Kradueng cable car project has been discussed on and off over the past 30 years, according to Deepu and other carriers. Now plans for the project are resurfacing, it has sent a wave of anxiety and uncertainty through the local community. Many have earned their living on the hill for more than half their lives.
Enduring the long hike, we could see why a cable car would come in handy. Some of the steps can be steep and dangerous if you are not careful. It is difficult for the elderly and disabled to climb uphill, but not impossible.
On our walk, we passed a 70-year-old, a family with children, and even a dog — proof that the tough mountain trail can still be conquered by those considered incapable.
This deer is a famous visitor to the camping ground, walking about late afternoon and evening looking for food from tourists.
Chula Unisearch of Chulalongkorn University, under the instruction of the Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration, has conducted a study to assess the feasibility of the cable car project. The report lists four possible locations a cable car station could be built on Phu Kradueng. One point has now been selected as the most suitable spot, after engineering, economic, investment and environmental factors were weighed up.
The interim report was released in June last year to strong criticism that it contains only old, unreliable, and incomplete information.
"What am I concerned about the most? The locals are being fooled, and the natural environment will be destroyed," said Tengpong Phianphat, representative from OK Nature Club.
The different attractions at Phu Kradueng are far apart. More amenities would be needed to accommodate increasing numbers of tourists.
Normally, a male carrier can take up to 70kg, and a female up to 40-50kg. In a day, each carrier can make 1,500 baht on average. Depending on the number of days they work, carriers can make up to 100,000 baht each year. In total, the 313 members can make roughly 30 million baht between them in a year.
There are about 100 shops from the top of the mountain to the bottom that are always frequented by tourists. Altogether, this results in over 50 million baht going straight to the locals, without passing through any middlemen or agents.
Sunset at Lom Sak Cliff.
"If we have the cable car, almost 100 million baht would disappear from their community," said Tengpong. "The money will still come in, but in whose pockets will it go? The investors, obviously."
Most of the carriers have no higher education qualifications. And it is next to impossible that they could find a similar income from other jobs.
"They said there would be jobs for us, but it's never specified as to the nature of the new jobs," said carrier Boonchai Terd-ubon. "I might just go back to cutting sugar cane."
"Eventually, they would just force us to quit in a month or two," said Deepu. He said he would be looking for one-year's compensation, though the possibility of getting that is slim. Another concern being raised by conservationists is the effect the cable car would have on the environment.
"I've been here nine times, and Phu Kradueng has changed a lot — for the worse," lamented Nopparat Naksathit, vice-president of Seub Nakhasathien Foundation.
Nopparat said he is not worried about the actual construction of the cable car, should it happen. Current technology would ensure as little impact on the forest as possible. It is rather the rapid increase of tourists that would ensue that raises his concerns.
"When there are too many people up here, we'll have a problem with the capacity. We don't know where the real limit lies. But if we exceed it, the environment would be affected," said Nopparat.
Currently, there are about 62,000 visitors to Phu Kradueng per year. It is predicted that the cable car could quadruple that number. Without the long walk as a natural screening process for unwanted visitors, the mountain would be filled with those merely looking for fun, without a care towards the environment.
A carrier takes a morning rest before transporting his load down the mountain.
One of Phu Kradueng's most famous attractions is going to watch the sunset at Lom Sak Cliff, 9km away from the camping area. Tourists either travel on foot, or on bicycles. And if the purpose of the cable car is to aid those who cannot walk up the mountain, where would people go after taking a cable car ride up to the top of it?
Nopparat foresees that development would not stop at the cable car alone. More toilets, shops, and transport links would become a necessity. To the conservationist, any further human activity would be sacrificing nature for the sake of tourism.
"The purpose of a national park is not to support the tourism industry; it's rather for the tourists to learn more about nature. Building a cable car would be responding to tourism's demands, and go against the purpose of the national park," said Nopparat.
Upon reaching the mountain top, we were filled with a sense of accomplishment. At less than four hours, we made good time when standing in front of Phu Kradueng's iconic sign.
"Once in a lifetime, we are the conquerors of Phu Kradueng," say the words on the sign which greet us at the lookout. Any tourist who makes it up the mountain has to take at least one photo of themselves with the sign. It is practically the law.
As a tourist, how would the whole Phu Kradueng experience change without the 5.5km hike uphill? What would be the sentimental value of this sign, of the "conquering" aspect, when people no longer have to put their patience and endurance to the test to reach this spot? Many expect the charm and pride to go out of the whole experience.
Phu Kradueng's "conqueror" sign at the top of the 5.5km climb.
"Every step taken here has meaning," said carrier Jeerasak Sithadi, who has climbed up and down the slopes for 12 years. The walk is not only meaningful for tourists, but also to Phu Kradueng's real conquerors: the carriers.
About 800m away from the "conqueror" sign, there is now a Thai flag flying marking the possible location of a cable car station (the results of Chula Unisearch's report). However, conservationists are not too concerned at this development. The cable car project would take a long time before the government could give its seal of approval, if ever.
"The hype is there, really. People are believing it's truly happening this time," said Nopparat. "But the real process is still a long way away."
