Last month, Juan Francisco Guillermo, a Chilean cyclist on a 250,000km, around-the-world journey, was killed after being hit by a pickup truck in Nakhon Ratchasima province. One week after the tragedy, members of the Thai Cyclists Network got together in front of Bangkok Art and Culture Centre for a commemorative ceremony. The event saw participants playing dead on the ground to raise public awareness of road safety and the risks faced by cyclists.
"Something like this happens just too often," said Juthamas Udomlapsakul, a 24-year-old female who commutes to work every day by bicycle. She also highlighted the death of two British cyclists in a road accident in Thailand in 2013. "All these cyclists who had ridden in many countries eventually came to their end on Thai roads. What does it mean?"
While the deaths of foreign cyclists are truly shocking, the bike-vs-car debate is an everyday issue with various implications. As cycling becomes more popular — as a leisure activity and as an alternative mode of transport — the debate on road safety, traffic law, and coexistence between two-wheelers and automobiles has become intense. The government, as well as Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, have put in efforts to promote Thailand as bike-friendly. Bike lanes are set aside in many of the capital's roads (though they're often taken over by other vehicles). Bike days are regularly arranged to promote cycling. And cycling as an exercise as well as a lifestyle choice has gained momentum among city people.
But if you ask those who ride bikes every day, out of economic necessity or as a job requirement, Thai roads still mean a daily adventure.
In 2013, the US State Department issued a warning on its "Thailand Travel Advisory" page, stating that "speeding, reckless passing, and failure to obey traffic laws is common in all regions of Thailand". The Thai Roads Foundation reported in 2012 that only 43% of motorcyclists wore helmets. Thoughtless acts that can put other people at risk, such as drink driving, are also rampant, accounting for 26% of road fatalities in Thailand, according to statistics from the World Health Oganization.
"We are trying to enforce the laws but some road users don't give us a break by behaving properly," said Sgt Peerawas Boonprom, who is in charge of policing road accidents around the Rattanakosin area where the longest protected bike lanes are located. "I believe that no matter how serious the laws are, they can't control people who don't have a conscience."
The piece of legislation most concerned with cycling is the 1979 Land Transportation Act, which merely provides basic legal guidelines for cyclists to comply with, such as what lane to ride in, where to park, or what equipment is required for a bicycle.
"These cycling-related laws are reasonable even though they are rather outdated," Sgt Peerawas said. "Cyclists are usually not the culprit for road accidents. It's the recklessness of some drivers that claims the lives of cyclists after all."
The people who're exposed to this kind of risk on a daily basis are those who've been cycling for years, and will continue to do so because of their livelihoods. Bike Day or not, they have no choice but to keep on riding. And if traffic laws are updated or bike lanes expanded to cover more areas, the benefits will fall on these people more than on casual riders, whose numbers seem to have grown in recent years.
Life talked to four brave individuals who get on bicycles every day about what it's like to cycle in Bangkok.
Wachara Deekraipao, 53
Wachara rides a clunky tricycle fitted with a big cart — commonly known as a saleng — to collect discarded bottles and sell them for a living.
"I'm no stranger to getting honked at or pressured by drivers in big cars," Wachara said. "I have nothing to fight back with. If they want to overtake me, be my guest. I will just keep left and go slowly."
Wachara knows where to find used bottles. From Silom to Sam Yan, she spends hours daily on her modified vehicle collecting what people toss on the ground or leave behind in bins. She turns them into money and makes about 5,000 baht a month.
For over 10 years, Wachara felt disdain from drivers who often regard her vehicle as a nuisance. However, she has never been involved in an accident.
"Your ears have to be good," she said. "Right after you hear something coming, you have to turn your head to see whether it's a bus or a car. Then you will know what you should do next."
Wachara Deekraipao.
Saijai Khunmee, 42
Saijai is a lottery hawker on her trusted two-wheeler. She comes to Bangkok from Loei twice every month to roam the city streets prior to lottery days.
"For me, walking is exhausting so I ride a bicycle instead," said Saijai, who's been selling lottery tickets for 10 years. "Motorcycles aren't good because they go too fast and it's not convenient for the business. You also have to pay for petrol."
Before Saijai started selling lottery tickets, she worked in a factory where the pay was scant. Now she makes 10,000 baht a month and still has enough time to do some farming with her family back in her hometown.
She is aware that Bangkok roads are dangerous. She feels that some drivers have no generosity and often belittle people on two wheels. On most days, she rides in small sois in Phatthanakan.
"Whenever I get honked at, all I can do is stop my bicycle to let those cars go first," Saijai said. "I have to watch out for myself."
Saijai Khunmee.
Rungtip Tangparimonthon, 39
Rungtip is a stockbroker who commutes from her house to her office by bike, logging a distance of more than 20km every day. She took up cycling after the 2013-2014 political protests left traffic paralysed.
"Cycling is fast, convenient, and you get exercise," she said.
However, Rungtip is aware of the risk she's taking when she's out on the road.
"I'm very scared of other road users' recklessness. It takes more exertion than driving a car. I have to fully concentrate all the time," she said.
Rungtip is not a big fan of bike lanes because she believes that they are impractical due to Bangkok's lack of road space. What she would like to see is improvements in road quality.
"The more cyclists come out on the road, the more leverage we have." Rungtip said. "We cyclists have more power on the roads than before."
Rungtip Tangparimonthon.
Wararat Tojan, 43
Wararat is a "Yakult Lady", and her job is to ride a bicycle to deliver the probiotic drink to her customers every day.
Wararat started the job in 1998 as a way to get back on her feet after maternity leave. When the Yakult company came to Thailand from Japan in 1970, bicycles were the only vehicle used by female employees, whose appearance and uniform became recognisable to most people. Now most of them use small motorcycles. Of the 4,000 "Yakult Ladies", around 200 still ride a bicycle.
"Cycling is very convenient," Wararat said. "I'm accustomed to it now. I get to save money and exercise at the same time."
Wararat's area are the small lanes around Phahonyothin, and she does not expose herself to the main roads too much.
She has only had minor accidents, such as losing balance from braking quickly when people crossing the streets do not watch out for her.
Nevertheless, when she has to go out on the main roads, she always feels that the streets are full of people short on discipline and kindness.
"I sometimes get honked at even though I keep left all the time," Wararat said. "This is how our road users are and I think we have come to the point where nothing seems fixable. We have to accept it and let it go."
Wararat Tojan.
