For 58 years, the legendary Bangkok Dolls House and Museum has preserved the sophisticated art of making cloth dolls in the form of classical Thai dancers and traditional characters. The old-school charm of the place, however, has been recently updated to meet changing times, and the display of hundreds of dolls given a facelift with help from Museum Siam and four interior architecture students from King Mongkut's Institute of Technology Ladkrabang. It is hoped the renovation work will attract more visitors to the long-standing private museum.
At first glance, this museum, showroom and small doll factory in Mor Leng Alley, Din Daeng, is just a one-storey, minimalist, mid-century building. After entering the building, return visitors will see some of its display windows have been modified to ensure adequate and proper space to show each set of dolls.
The late Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol founded the Thai handmade doll business 58 years ago after she saw beautiful dolls in Japan in 1945, and later enrolled for a five-day course at Ozawa Doll School in Tokyo and updated her knowledge to create fine Thai dolls.
"The improvement will help extend the life of the museum. Since its establishment over 50 years ago, there had been no renovation. We also took this opportunity to have termites eradicated," said Arbhas Chandavimol, son of Khunying Tongkorn and manager of Bangkok Dolls.
Parts of the museum room and showroom were refurbished and two major sets of dolls were relocated. First, the whole set of "The Battle Between Phra Ram And Thotsakan" is on view for the first time in one of the cases in the showroom, which was modified and decorated with the battlefield backdrop. Previously, only some of the dolls in this set had been shown separately due to limited space.
This set is significant because it won the Gold Peacock Feather Award at an international competition held in Krakow, Poland, in 1978. Similar sets of dolls were made-to-order and are now on view at Suan Pakkad Palace, Srinakharinwirot University Prasarnmit Demonstration School and Vajiravudh College, all in Bangkok.
The second change is the display of classical dancer dolls in 30 of the 68 typical dancing poses in a renovated display in the showroom.
Arbhas Chandavimol, manager of Bangkok Dolls.
In the museum room, two large displays were modified and repainted from yellow to white for showing Bangkok Dolls as well as Khunying Tongkorn's international dolls. A new display with six glass windows was built to show certain sets of dolls, such as the birth of Jesus Christ and famous Thai literature. The display of the floating market set was improved through the repainting of the setting. Moreover, the first batch of dolls has become a highlight. In addition, the single doors of both the museum room and showroom were replaced by double doors.
The renovation took about one month to complete in May and cost around 200,000 baht. It was the idea and work of four third-year students — Orakan Noonpanichpong, Katleeya Heng, Danaphak Charoenchaiyong and Boonchanok Pornpipatpong. This group chose Bangkok Dolls House and Museum as a case study to propose an old museum improvement project to secure an award from Museum Siam. Throughout this period, the museum's owner, the students, Museum Siam staff and museum management experts brainstormed ideas and exchanged knowledge.
"When we went to survey the museum for the first time, we saw its hidden beauty which could shine after minor adjustments," said Orakan. "I was impressed with the way all the dolls now have their own space."
According to Arbhas, the unique features of Bangkok Dolls are the way they depict classical Thai dancers in traditional costumes in dancing poses endorsed by the Fine Arts Department, and the way they look detailed and realistic. The body and face of each doll is crafted with minute attention, rendering them elegant and beautiful.
The popular classical dance dolls of Bangkok Dolls.
These dolls mostly depict classical Thai dances, especially major episodes of epic Ramakien. Those shown at this museum include those depicting Ramakien's Jong Thanon (Road Building), The Battle Of Maiyarap, The Battle Of Kumphakan and The Birth Of Ramakien episodes.
Besides its popular classical Thai dance sets, Bangkok Dolls has made dolls in the form of characters from Thai literature, such as Sangthong and Rojana, Khun Phaen and Wan Thong, Khun Phaen and Khun Chang, Phra Lor, Phra Phuen and Phra Phaeng and Phra Aphai Manee. It has also designed made-to-order dolls for special occasions, such as the dolls of the late Pope John Paul II who visited Thailand once and those of Miss Thailand and Miss Universe 1988 Pornthip Nakhirankanok. Only one of each remains at the museum. This factory also has tailor-made dolls of flight attendants, students, Boy Scouts and graduates.
Also outstanding are the dolls of women wearing traditional Thai costumes of different periods as well as the dolls of Thai soldiers. However, there have been unpopular models, including those depicting Middle Eastern women of different tribes and those portraying likay performers, which were finally discontinued, but are still on view at this museum.
According to Arbhas, his mother Khunying Tongkorn created the first batch of dolls in 1956 and started Bangkok Dolls in 1957. Initially, she imported materials from Japan. Later, she decided to adopt local materials and create Thai designs. For example, Bangkok Dolls' dolls display prominent Thai features and are 12-inches instead of 16-inches tall.
Several prominent art experts lent her a hand, including Prof Silpa Bhirasri, the founder of Silpakorn University, who helped with features and shapes of dolls; Prof Luang Visal Silpakarm of the Ancient City (Muang Boran) helped with design and dressing; and National Artist Thanphuying Phaew Snitwongsenee filled in on poses typical of Thai dancing.
"They kept working until the dolls almost resembled real dancers. It required a lot of effort. It's like shrinking real classical Thai dancers into dolls," he added. According to him, these dolls were among the top 10 souvenirs from Thailand about 30-40 years ago.
A wide variety of Bangkok Dolls dolls.
"Thainess is a selling point itself. My mother started this well-established business and won international recognition. Years ago, Bangkok Dolls were one of the most popular choices as souvenirs for foreigners because they reflect Thainess and represent Thai people. They show Thai people have culture and are not barbarians. Givers are proud to present Bangkok Dolls as gifts for special occasions only," said Arbhas.
Despite the fine craftsmanship and rich history, the popularity of dolls has decreased. However, these remain the best of traditional Thai dolls. Although similar dolls have been made elsewhere, Bangkok Dolls' creations are still unique due to the use of quality materials and the high standards of craftsmanship. Prices are high but reasonable because only good materials are used in making them. Artisans pay attention to every detail. Even phanung — traditional trousers — for the dolls must be printed at this factory.
"When my mother passed away about five years ago I carried on her work to conserve the making of Thai dolls," Arbhas added.
Currently, the Bangkok Dolls factory employs 15 artisans. The oldest one, Naree Thikhayu, 78, has been working there for 58 years. She proudly said the dolls have always been a favourite because they are beautifully made.
The first Bangkok Dolls.
Another artisan, Bang-orn Borngern, who has been working here for more than 10 years, admitted she gradually developed a love for her job. Another employee, Pimporn Buddawiang, voiced concerns about the lack of younger people who want to learn how to make such dolls.
"What a shame. Our dolls are unique," said Pimporn. "The faces are more beautiful. The arms, legs and postures are different from other dolls."
According to Arbhas, the business is now at a crossroads, with uncertainty about how it can survive in the long-term. Finding new artisans is difficult because no one seems interested in learning the complicated art of making dolls.
"We expect more visitors. Today, tourists came here in vans. After some news reports, many more people want to see this museum. There are new groups of customers, including those who have never been interested and those who want to come here, but have no opportunity to. Museum Siam's cultural networks have also helped spread the word," he said.
Located in Ratchataphan (Mor Leng) Alley on Ratchaprarop Road, Ratchathewi district, Bangkok Dolls House and Museum is open 8am-5pm on Tuesdays-Saturdays except public holidays. Admission is free. Visit www.bangkokdolls.com or call 02-245-3008.
Doll making.
