There's Beauty in Biscotti

There's Beauty in Biscotti

Veterans to the Bangkok food scene will know of it, newcomers should definitely try it… Zipporah Gene pays a visit to a dazzling enduring Italian gem, in the heart of Bangkok

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

Only a few minutes walk from the revered Erawan Shrine, the bustling Siam Square, and the artsy National Stadium - this is as central as it gets.

Once home to the Four Seasons, but now part of Anantara Siam, Biscotti is clearly a restaurant that knows how to effortlessly weather the changes of the tide. Year on year, from 2000 till now, it has collected an impressive stream of awards and accolades, most notably being its continued spot in Tatler's 'Thailand's Best Restaurants' guide book. Its noticeable steadfast pledge to relaxed fine dining, leaves no room for doubt - this is definitely one of the best Italian eateries in Bangkok.

With its sleek, contemporary interior and classy laid back vibe, it exudes that wondrous air of all that is homely and comfortable; exactly what you need when sampling the food of 'the culture of pleasure'. Candle-lit tables, mute earthy tones, solid wood furnishings, and a chilled relaxed ambience; all speak volumes of its understated class; and the sangfroid to pull off this level of cool, at a time when countless others petulantly demand attention.

You'll have to excuse me when I say that I had, for a long time, assumed that the food here would be too bourgeoisie for a humble east Londoner like myself. Renown among the slick executive types for being the best place for a business lunch, both my oversight and ignorance are somewhat understandable given the obvious mystique surrounding it. However, upon closer inspection, the menu is actually a rather reasonably priced affair; considering its strict adherence to freshly imported ingredients.

The seared scallops, braised salsify, aromatic green pea sauce and crispy parma ham with black truffle, still gives me major goosebumps. The scallops, spankingly fresh and firm, with each bite gives way to something altogether more tender and lascivious. The crispy parma ham crumbles toyingly, giving me flashes of that naughty salty goodness that I promised myself I'd stay away from. I actually went as far as to bath my very last scallop in the zingy freshness of the green pea sauce, making sure to grab the last few remaining flakes of grated black truffle. I defy you to deny yourself that very last ounce of earthy luxuriousness.

It was drop dead gorgeous.

The home made ravioli with tiger prawn, broccoli sauce, Sicilian cherry tomato confit and lobster foam was an absolute surprise. Reserved for the New Year celebrations, this surprising and brilliantly coloured dish was, if I'm being honest, initially a little intimidating. The colours truly spring out at you in a way that needs to be seen, in person, to be believed. However, after my first hesitant mouthful, I soon ravished the entire plateful -- foam and all. The piquant tomatoes, creamy broccoli and lobster are jam-packed with flavour and beautifully balance the rather hearty tiger prawn ravioli. It is silky, unctuous and one ravioli, at least for me, was definitely enough. The portions here are more than generous, but be prepared for your inner glutton to play tricks on you.

Curiosity can never be a bad thing. So even though I was well and truly stuffed, I made my way to buffet area to see what was on offer. I really believe that you can tell a lot about a place by the spread; this score exceptionally high marks. Bustling waiting staff are constantly monitoring, changing and adding new items, making the lunch buffet as far from your usual re-heated troughs of rice and pastas, as possible. Instead the buffet included a well stocked antipasti bar, seared beef, duck and foie gras and the likes. As a self-professed seafood fanatic, both eyes and nostrils were caught by the beautifully displayed prawns.

This is definitely done by Italian Chef Daniele Bettini who is hell bent on perfecting each plate.

When you first walk in, you'll notice an open kitchen.

Always the sceptic, I just simply assumed it was there for show. But let's just say that after the lunch I had, I realise that it is simply because, the emphasis is on what it always should be -- great food.

BISCOTTI THIS FESTIVE SEASON

This Christmas Chef Daniele will be preparing some much loved Italian classics in his highly sort after five-course Christmas Eve Dinner from 6:00pm to 10:30pm for Bt3,800++ per person.

For those just simply hungry for the famed classics that Biscotti has to offer, the a-la-carte dishes are also available.


For more information call. 02 126 8866 or send an email to: dining.asia@anantara.com

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